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Heres some photos from last weekends Great Orme PSSA meet August 7th/8th which turned out to be a great event despite the rain which halted play at times on the Saturday! https://www.flickr.com/.../98511.../albums/72157719682266717

Thanks to all for their learned replies. Digging around t'internet I find on one of the official Radiomaster pages the following in their 'FAQ' section (See below): DSMX Range issue? Many DSM receivers have what is known as "fly-by" telemetry, this is a very short range telemetry system intended to give telemetry data only at close range. The problem presents its self most noticeably in small BNF models which may have as little as 30m of telemetry range. This issue does not however effect the range of the actual RF link and the telemetry warnings may lead some pilots to think they have a range issue with the model when in fact they do not. There is a setting in OpenTX that allows for these telemetry warnings to be disabled and the topic is covered on the Multi-module website. Disable the telemetry warnings with the check box below.

Try viewing a few of the many video tutorials on the particular model of printer you have -there's a huge amount of material available. Your first port of call will be Creality's own website. https://www.creality.com/goods-detail/ender-3-v2-3d-printer The slicer programme translates your 3D model file into a gcode file which gives the instructions to the printer itself. I use the common method of writing the gcode to the Micro-SD card, which is then inserted into the printer to print the model. I use the Creality slicer supplied with the printer and that gives good results. I previously used Cura, a free download, which does much the same job. For designing your own parts there's any number of free or cheap programmes, all the way up to sophisticated products costing thousands of pounds a year to licence. Tinkercad is very popular, I'm starting to use Meshmixer and have also used SketchUp. All of these programmes have thousands of hours of video tutorials to watch, to help learn what is needed -personally I'm just scratching the surface. To find files of interest just google search for anything you like, with the suffix .stl, which will lead you to one of the 3D file search engines, like STLFinder or yeggi. Sites you might fond useful are Thingiverse, CGTrader (mostly files that you will have to pay for), Cults3D etc etc - Google will turn these up and you too can experience the joy of wading through thousands of irrelevant files that the search engines suggest. ? Most of all - enjoy yourself - it's a learning cliff, more than a learning curve, but it's great fun to hold a nice 3D print of something that didn't exist three hours ago and has been produced by something which is essentially a slightly more sophisticated glue gun.

For anyone who is interested, I will be documenting fitting the 160 in line twin into an ESM P51 (brand new, old stock!) including chopping the front off the fuse to set the bulkhead back to take the longer engine. Hoping to get started on the build in a couple of week’s time.

So thats 5x for a B17 plus yourself. Getting there for future developements, when you get organised again after the move.?

Yes and no. It is a fork, but it is a completely different set of developers driving it who are focussing on developing new funtionality, much of it for multirotor users. At thsi time there is nothing more than a vague affirmation from the OTX team that some of the functionality from EdegeTX will make its way back into OTX at some point. Personally I similar to Betaflight/Cleanflight - Betaflight was developed to be the option for more "bleeding edge" pilots with all the latest and greatest functionality ut les of the polish, but actually everyone moved over and Cleanflight develpment stopped. Short answer to Ken's question... If you want touchscreen functionality any time soon, you will need to go to Edge TX, but going back to OTX should be relatively simple to do if for any reason you don't like it (unlikely as at this point the underlying functionality is nearly identical, it's only future releases where it may start to diverge).

Ken, my understanding Edge TX is Open TX going touch screen, it's a branch off OTX with a nice new name.....

I'm not sure if I've missed this but I was perusing Mick Reeves Models' website looking for some flexible stainless tubing and came across this (with nothing in the way of explanation) : Is this a Laser collaboration or has Mick constructed it himself? It looks home brewed or very much a development prototype. What an intriguing prospect for a large warbird! BTW, I was pleased to find he seems to have a range of tubing in stock as well as his assortment of useful fittings. The website is a fine example of why website designers make a living but service seems as excellent as ever with rapid response to my email - and postage at pretty much cost...not used as a hidden way to bump up prices as many suppliers seem to do!

I have now got to the stage of installing the engine. For a throttle servo, I have three possibilities: a Hitec HS55, a Hitec 5055MG which are both micro servos or a standard size Hitec HS 311/Futaba 148 servo. The throttle servo only has to push a little lever forward and backwards so the HS55 should cope but will this little servo be strong enough to withstand the vibration? Not that Lasers vibrate very much! Incidentally, I started up the engine, a Laser 70, in the test stand yesterday. I had fitted a 16x4 propeller. It fired up staight away with a single back-flip!

I agree with MH's post. IMHO Hs82 are a little too little for a seven foot IC model.

Thanks Mike I'll look at that , also found another utube that seems relevant

Brian. Not migrated my TX16s to Edge yet but this video YouTube video looks useful https://youtu.be/7prdIFzm2D0

Diacov or Diatex is a great Solartex/Oratex alternative, with Diatex you have to use a separate adhesive, Diacov has an adhesive backing so just irons on. You do need sharp scissors and knife to cut it though. Being used to cover full sized light aircraft it's pretty robust while quite light, I've covered a couple of models with Diacov now. Only downside is that it is not available in any colours so you'll need to paint it. Sarik Hobbies sell Diacov by the meter, full size light aircraft suppliers would be the place to go for Diatex, e.g. Skycraft

My former chairman used ladies dress lining on his Goldberg Sailplane, it's pretty cheap. If you were to cover the flying surfaces in doculam or mylar first you would use less dope.

Just about to bid when I saw that BA's conditions insist on static display only. Shucks, I had the model nearly ready...!

If that's the Texas RC model, and you are new to rc, it's almost certainly going to end in an expensive disaster pretty quickly. Sorry. Please find a local club where it is safe to fly, talk to the club instructor(s) and follow their advice before spending any more money.

They ain't cheap but worth every penny, spar slotters ? very useful for all manner of tasks. ?

I use Hitec HS82MG on many of my models. For flaps it might be worth looking at digital ones though, for they can be slowed and reversed -- reversing of one is necessary if the servos are installed as mirror-images in each wing.

Any decent quality standard servos should be fine. Maybe slightly uprated ones for the flaps if they use large deflections...

Heres my latest creation, not a build, but make over of a Chris Foss Acro-wot foam e

Wot he said. ^

I've kept out of this so far, but I feel obliged to say something as it's been going on for a while now. I'm a bloke with a technical background, so I don't mind facing the odd hi-tech challenge to overcome problems I encounter. To be honest, starting a glow engine isn't one of them so I see no need for a hi-tech solution. I connect a sub C powered glow starter, turn the engine over and it normally starts. I had a problem a few years ago with a glow starter with a built in ammeter, which was a bit temperamental. A finger tap or two would spring the meter into life. I swapped it for ones without a meter and have been OK since. I put that down to it being too technical for what was needed - obviously too many failure points. One thing I will say that hasn't been mentioned much. I always charge my glow starters up before each flying session. I see a lot of folk struggling for ages only to reveal that their glow starter hasn't been charged for a while (Duh). Could this be a common problem I wonder? I don't think I've ever had to change a glow plug because the engine wouldn't start. I've given loads of plugs away to people who were struggling to start theirs though. I also find that having horizontally mounted engines can put a bit of strain on the "segments" that open up when the starter is squeezed and grip the plug when released - due to gravity and the large rotational forces involved. This can affect the grip on the plug the next time it is used. Nothing that the occasional strip down, clean and adjustment with a pair of pointed pliers cannot resolve.

Although my main interest is building and flying RC aircraft, I sometimes like to go back to the early days and do a bit of free flight. Since losing our old flying field the club has now got a new field which is very large so I hope to be able to use it for a bit of free flight. My old Vic Smeed "Miss 38" was looking very tatty so I decided on another of his designs and bought a plan of " Mam'selle'. I have used my ED bee as a power unit and am now waiting for a calm evening to test it.

The complaints of people buying the RCME are that the content has gone down since lockdown as there has been no shows. I think it would be a good thing for Paul's excellent builds of your Warbird Replica kits to feature in the magazine. That way it would provide content and also let the general population of modellers that do not subscribe to the forum find out about the Warbird kits. Eric r.

Posted by Steve W-O on 02/01/2012 13:42:32: It is easy on a forum when the posts have a number, but it can get very confusing when you don't know what an answer is to, it is not always obvious   Steve - but you can delete irrelevant parts of quoted posts or just reply by using the poster's name! I'm with kc on this one. It's especially bad when the quote includes photos and long strings of prior quotes. Just delete them from the quote that you are replying to, we've already seen the pics if we got this far! [rant off/]  back(ish) on track - I've been using the same SLEC trimming tool for about 15 years, maybe I should replace it now? The cheap Chinese hobby knife kits sold in Aldi, Lidl et al are good for trimming film, very sharp when new and the kits include a sharpening stone.

And yet, the days of cheap Hobbyking batteries for those who dwell outside the UK are not yet over.