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It would be a lot easier if everyone stuck to the topic PVA glue. ?

Perhaps you may consider an arming plug like this, now you are close to completion, makes it easier and safer to fully arm.

Not always a total disaster.

On a small model where space is tight you could probably solder the three connections permanently using heat-shrink to insulate the joints, after all you're unlikely to want to disconnect the motor - ESC anyway. First make one permanent joint & two (insulated) temporary joints, check the direction the motor is turning, reverse the temp joints if necessary. When the running direction is established making the joints permanent.

That's a craft glue for sticking paper and card down. I'd guess non toxicity and cheapness were the main criteria for the Works stocking it. Cant speakers for anyone else but I like using proper wood glues such as Evostik Resin W or Titebond. I don't like making false economies.

Productive day. Trimmed and sanded the wing almost to the stage where upper skins could be fitted. Laminated the wingtips. 'Fettled' the wing dowel arrangement. Put it all together to work out what to do next, what I should do is buy four servos, finish the aileron arrangement and skin the wing. The fuselage wing root fairing can't be built without the wing being mostly complete. 1 and 2. The wing tips are made out of thin ply and 3 mm balsa laminations, I was thrown slightly here because two of the balsa parts are number 17 and the rest are number 18, they are identical! It would be easy to make two tips the same instead of handed items (I almost did!). Quite chunky but the majority of the wood will be lost during shaping. 3 and 4. The central wing dowel is interesting, a slot for it is provided in the root ribs where often this would be drilled on assembly. 5, 6 and 7. Four riblets are provided to support the dowel and it does say in the instructions to drill for the dowel later but I thought it would be less brutal/more accurate to groove the inner riblets to fit, without grooves they stand off. 8. It has to be done! Assembling with tape like this usually shows the way for the next part of the build, logically (Mr Spock!) I should fit all the servos next so that I can finish the wing. I could glue the rudder laminations together and do some tailplane sanding.

You can see some of the entries at the bottom of this page https://caa-dronecomp.uk/

I use DeLuxe Materials glues exclusively now. For me no other other manufacturer has products to match The owner of the business is a chemist and has tailored his products to our modelling needs. If you have a technical query or suggestion for a new product just email the boss and you will get a good thoughtful answer. At first one might think that the D-L-M products are more expensive than other glues, but I find that because they work so well I think I use less. They also have a whole load of application accessories so that you can apply just the right amount of glue exactly where you want it For planking their PVA is double excellent - fast grab time but enough time to position and pin planks. It also sands very well unlike many other PVAs that I have tried. I believe that the key reason for the D-L-M PVA working so well is that it has little or no bulking agent unlike most other PVAs. No I am not a secret agent of D-L-M just a long term satisfied user.

Odd, we complain others aren't aware of the laws, someone tries something we knock it ? Can't see we've anything to lose here (CAAs project) and may gain a bit of goodwill ?

With an sub 250gm drone such as the DJI Mini 2 which is very capable you can fly in urban locations perfectly lawfully as long as you are registered and displaying your Operator Id on the aidcraft.

If you're in the State of California, pretty much everything is known (or suspected) to cause cancer!

As everyone else has said, definitely don't attempt to use a servo connector for an esc to motor connection. With small electric models I tend to use 2mm bullet connectors but, as the connection is rarely (if ever) disconnected I've also not bothered with connectors at all and simply soldered the wires together once I've determined rotation direction is correct.

Whether it softens over time seems to be affected by the environmental circumstances. I was thinking of when I have glued a pan handle back together or used it for a silencer repair.

If the bullet connectors are too big cut them off and solder on 2mm bullet connectors or MT30 style connectors. The fact that they are hard to disconnect is a good thing, don't want them coming apart in flight ?

Agree with Martin. I only really use Z-Poxy these days as it gives consistent results and it does not seem to be super critical in terms of exact mixing quantities -mixing by eye with as close to the same size blobs of hardener and resin works for me. It's also excellent for mixing with microballoons either as a gap filling adhesive or for fabricating parts.

Last Eflite model I bought was he foam 1.1m-ish PT17. Wanted the pnp version but apparently that was quickly discontinued; bnf version still available (which presumably is a way to try and lock you in to Spektrum/HH radio gear. Several assembly issues, as well reported on the internet/social media. Looks really nice but it's really really heavy which limits it's flight capabilities. Not as good as the heaper FMS Typhoon I own, or the Durafly Corsair and Spitfire - all considerably cheaper. Spare parts are ridiculously expensive. It's a shame because the earlier stuff, like Inverza; umx Yak, Sbach, SSCub, F16; Viking 180 were brilliant.

There seems to be a bit of a pattern emerging with third party receivers. I wonder how many counterfeit receivers might be to blame too? Having used telemetry since 2009 I can be pretty certain that I’ve had no failsafes and have usually taken claims of failsafes causing accidents with a pinch of salt but the cases above seem to be quite credible.

Doing an “all nighter “ at nearly 60 means NOT getting up at 3am for the toilet...?

Evening all! Another weekend and another GP! Mexico this time and P2 is currently in progress. P1 saw Mercedes setting the top two times with Red Bull 3rd and 4th. But again it was Bottas at the top, though only by 7-hundredths of a second. Verstappen was over a tenth down with Perez over a tenth further back. Gasly was next and the rest of the field were over a second off Bottas's time. Qualifying is at 8pm UK-time tomorrow, with the race an hour earlier at 7pm on Sunday. Don't forget your predictions!

With the pound of lead added what does the model weigh? If its not excessively heavy for its size just forget it. Lead is cheaper than an engine rebuild and thor prop hubs are not known for their high strength. The design of the crank extension is pretty poor and out of balance props/heavy spinners have been known to cause them to fail. I would not add any weight to the crankshaft in this case as the weight will be miles ahead of the bearing and completely unsupported. Another alternative would be to mount the lead further forward. On my DB Hurricane i made a cradle from two glass/nylon engine mounts and this hold my 2lbs of lead very nicely. There is so much hysteria about adding lead. Just dont worry about it. Our engines are very light vs full size when you consider the engine mass vs total weight of the aircraft. Adding lead is more or less inevitable and if you have done all you can to minimise it, just screw it on and go flying.

Hi Martin,Pictures of progress and also of motor that I am going to install in LA-7.