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The Fairchild PT 19. Nice colour scheme.

Historic Italian Seaplane from 1925. Just built.

Historic Italian Seaplane from 1925. Just built.

The Flying Fortress

There are a multitude of different gyros / stabilisers (I'll call them gyros from now!) and ditto flight controllers and there is a grey area in between where some functions overlap. Putting it simply, a gyro is a device that can respond to changes in the aircraft's attitude and nullify such changes, an example would be a gust of wind that flicks one wing up, the gyro levels the wings again much quicker than you can. A flight controller is a device, that usually includes a gyro and a barometer and can also be linked to a gps receiver (so can some gyros!), that can be programmed to fly the model, for instance flying a pattern (say a circle) over a certain bit of land and holding that size of circle and position without any pilot input. Going back to the gyro, the simple ones are called 3 axis as they operate on the roll (ailerons), pitch (elevator) and yaw (rudder) and in most cases have at least 3 functions, (my words as they tend to use different terms depending on the manufacturer)smoothing, levelling and off. The smoothing function does what I said above, it 'irons out' sudden changes caused by external forces (wind), levelling goes a stage further and tends to resist most changes and therefore attempts to keep level flight. Off is where you can switch the gyro off. The amount by which the gyro smooths the flight is normally controlled by a gain control, this can be via a 'pot' on the gyro which you turn one way to increase and the other to decrease but increasingly more can be controlled by a rotary switch on the Tx. The idea is that you adjust the amount of gain so that it is not too intrusive to normal flying, in other words you don't feel that you are fighting it. The levelling function can be quite intrusive as you could well be fighting with it when you try to banking it's trying to keep it level! There are lots of other functions that some gyros now have and I won't go into them now as that could lead to confusion apart from one which has gained popularity, I'll call it Panic! This is usual operated by a Tx switch and is deployed when you are losing control, let's say upside down 45º towards the ground, flick the switch and the model will turn upright and level off allowing you to regain control. Hopefully that sheds some light.

Took me ages to get past 3/4 of a circuit and ghen crashing! Happy memories of youth spent on Mitcham Common. I remember vividly the first time I flew for a full tankful and the relief when the aircraft landed in one piece! I still have a Phantom with PAW 149 I built in the mid 80s to get my son's interested. No joy unfortunately.

Snuck out with the Ruckus, Viper, and Wot4 - actually went with a purpose! W4 now has a landing mode - bit of 'up' and lower idle, increases confidence for spins etc. Happy Force 46 in Ruckus is now inverted - looks much better and now runs nicely. Happy Yesterday I uprated the Esc in my little Viper edf to make use of some 4s LiPos, and put in a new receiver - a Spektrum 636 (I think!). Bound it with AS3X off..... all seemed good. Switched it on at the field to be greeted by the chattering of servos as I picked it up. Grrrrrr Still, as Mr Loaf would have said..... "2 out of 3 aint bad...." Raining cats and dogs now

Managed to get out today before the showers and thunder rumbles started. I have a temporary hazard, as can be seen below, to encounter until the crop is cut next month. You certainly learn to line up the landing properly!! Never mind all the fun of the day. Just made sure I knew where the rudder was!! 😁

My latest model, a Mick Reeves Spitfire, not built by me, bought without engine never had one fitted now with a Saito 123a ready to go when weather permits with lead ballast comes out at 14 lb. If successful with this motor I will try to conceal the exhaust. Not cutting the lower cowl till after the Maiden flight.

Hi together I "m Bernd from Germany and I am currently building a Messerschmitt M23C by Jim Newberry. I have a milling parts kit from Sarik and have started building the fin.The parts fit great and the tail was built quickly

Here's my latest completed build. It is an RCM PT-20. Not the Great Planes version which is different to the original RCM version. I downloaded the plans from Outerzone. It came in at 1.25kg and is powered by a Magnum .25. I hope to do the maiden soon and then hand it over to my kids to fly 😃

I did something similar to Tim as part of an article that appeared in the now defunct AMI magazine. I'd acquired couple of mangled ED 2cc diesels that I wanted to be able to use in vintage models & happened to have a carb from a worn out Enya 09 III. I think the one on the right is a Comp Spl & the other is a "Penny Slot" with a replacement home made head. This shows my version of a radial mount to replace the damaged originals. Going from memory the extension is a scrap of brass tube soldered to the existing inlet spigot with the carb epoxied in place very similar to Tim's arrangement. The Enya carb worked very well without any need to reduce the bore. I used a slightly enlarged APS Frankenstein as test bed for both of these engines (& a few others). The carb was more effective than I'd expected.

Thanks John, This could be a leccy version .... the jury is still out on that as yet. If I was to go down the other route .....it would maybe be another Stinger..... like my variant. ... time will tell. Toto

Brilliant! Thanks! Although I've got a lathe, I think cannibalising a spare small carb is the way to go. @brokenenglishI'm flying carb-less at the mo and you're right, it can be great fun: But for a larger airframe with the ED, a little more control would be nice 🙂

The carb is a home made item (made by a clubmate when an engineering apprentice), and looks to have a commercial (OS? Enya?) needle valve assembly. I found an ancient nut in the spares box that threaded onto the ED's inlet spigot. Onto this I soft soldered a short length of Tx aerial, and then the carb was epoxied directly onto the other end of the tube. To begin with, the engine wouldn't suck fuel from the tank, so I fitted a length of green plastic tube into the carb intake to reduce the bore to around 4mm, which solved the problem. I'm guessing that the carb from, say, a PAW .09 might well fit the bill. I find that addition of a throttle really expands the repertoire of a vintage model - low slow circuits, touch and goes really add to the enjoyment! Tim

Well I reckon the Keil Kraft Student is a classic model aeroplane. I had one back in 1975. She was my first aileron trainer. 6 months ago I took a nostalgia trip and built another from the plan.

You don't need an RC carb to fly a nice old FF model. If you arrange the tank to give 3 or 4 minutes of engine run (in the air), you'll get between 5 and 10 minutes of glide and such flights are very enjoyable.

Peter. Are you sure that is aliens and not inlaws ?

Flying buddy, Tony, is getting into control line so provided today's entertainment at the power field. He managed a world record (for him) 7 circuits before he had to lie down 🙂

Successful Maiden today, a strong breeze from not the best direction a bit hairy on take off needing a lot of down elevator for level flight, could do with a bit more power but flew well after trimming, a bit thirsty but in the wind it was almost flat out throughout the flight. After all the rain the ground was soft and the landing was good but the oleos turned on the pins so I need to put some flats on. It seems that they have been put on with loctite retainer as they were reluctant to come off even with the grub screws removed.

A few years ago I came across a plan for a KK Phantom Mite and as I had a DC Merlin knocking about I decided to recreate the one I built in my teens. I’ve just found a short video of it flying a year or so ago…

Harry, If the data provided by 4-Max on their website is correct, as I mentioned previously, the motor and prop. combination that you already have and which was supplied by them as a complete set, is rated at 17.5A maximum current. As that is what you have measured using your 3s battery (35A for two of them working at the same time), I can't see where you feel a problem exists. I can't see anywhere, on the 4-Max website, that they are stating that the maximum current for the motor you have is 10A. If they do state that somewhere then it is directly contradicting their own 17.5A rating, and the purpose of supplying a matched set of parts (motor, prop and ESC). If you're really worried about it, you could give 4-Max a call and ask them directly. As Peter says, once in the air the current will drop anyway, plus you will be unlikely to be using full throttle for most of the flight. I would install the motors and props as supplied into the model and go and fly it. Brian.

At my mentors tonight. The wing repair on the Arising Star is complete. Looks very easy. I wouldn't be so unsure about doing the next one myself. Delighted. My NX8 is also set up to buddy the NX6 so come Saturday ..... my mentor will do the maiden then we are straight onto the buddy box if everything is good. Progress ...... Toto

About ten years ago I was given a DB Sport and Scale Auster which just needed finishing off so it's high time I got on with it but progress has stalled at the fitting of the canopy glazing. Because the glazing is so extensive on this model, fitting a pilot figure is to me mandatory. I've had a look at pilot figures on line but they seem to be quite expensive so I was thinking of fitting an Action Man or Barbie's Ken instead. Come to think of it I could even fit Barbie herself! We mustn't be sexist must we! One of the pilots in La Coupe Des Barons, a couple of years ago, flew with a Barbie Doll in the cockpit but she crashed just like the rest of us. I will have to glue the pilot in place before fitting the canopy glazing because it will be imposible to get him/her into the pilot's seat once the top glazing is in place. Does anyone have any experience of using these dolls as pilots?

I know there are several of you out there that have or have had one of these large Maggie`s in the past, feel free to chip in with thoughts or reminiscences regarding yours. I picked this one up at a bring and buy earlier this year and it has obviously given good service in the past but not been flown for a long time judging by the dust on it when acquired, the tailplane, elevators and rudder have been built up rather than sheet so someone has gone to some trouble to lighten the rear end. I have decided to get this in the air fairly quickly as i will be going to the Shipdham Fly In on the 11th August and wanted something with me that will handle windy conditions better than my smaller electrics as this year seems to be destined to be a blowy one. I have had an old Kalt 22cc petrol sitting in a box for the last 20 years, it was a good reliable engine that last flew in a Pegasus models Tipsy Nipper, i kept the engine when i sold the airframe as it was such an easy starting reliable motor, i test ran it again about 6 months ago so this is going to be fitted. The original set up in this model was a single centre wing servo with bowden cables, it obviously worked so i am not going to start cutting the foam wing about to modify for separate aileron servos and cabling, it will be new servos all round, fit the motor, tank etc and go fly it. What i don`t have is a cowl, anyone have an old (or new) one kicking around or know someone who can supply? Will post some more pics once it is ready to fly.

After almost running out of old stock Solartex during my last build. I swore that I would not put myself in that position again. I looked for an alternative and quickly realised that options are limited. I then stumbled on a YouTuber who had used 100% polyester. It shrinks when heated with an iron or heat gun the only problem was how to stick it to the airframe. After some experiments I discovered that Mod Podge applied and allowed to dry would reactive when heat was applied through the polyester via an iron. Shrinking via a heat gun and a couple of coats of 50/50 mix shrinking dope and thinners does the job ready for a paint scheme.

I believe that the Flair Scout series are viewed as classics. Here's my Magnatilla.

@Murat Kece 1 I am super pleased to find this thread. I am about to embark on the same restoration project so this helps a tonne. I also contacted George from 4-max and he recommended the same motor set up. One thing I was concerned about is that the frise (?) ailerons seem to have very limited throw. Knowing yours had flown in the past it would be great to have validation of how much throw you have. I was contemplating mounting servos next to the flight surfaces. Waiting your maiden (and CG experience) with anticipation!

No dont worry about that, you'll find the glass and resin will take all the compound curves just fine, its sharp 90deg corners it doesnt like, you have to use panels and patches then.

My recently restored Depron Folland Gnat. It uses a 50 mm EDF with a 1500mAh 3s 830mm span with scale inlets and no cheat holes. It weighs 451g (16 oz) so is an easy hand launch. Super light construction using 2mm Depron. No carbon anywhere the only balsa are thin flanges on a single spar. The complete inlet duct is 3D printed. The duct was used as a spine to build the fuselage around. The nose was built separately and glued on. The QX50 8 blade EDF is right at the back so there is no exhaust duct just a printed extension to the EDF body. The rear EDF means the battery is placed well forward and thus clear of the duct. Originally built in February 2020 it had a troubled early life with several crashes although it now flies very nicely.

Hi Earlybird, Just tried your freind at 4max for an order .... let's see how good he is. Toto

Hi Adrian, I use a 3rd party telemetry device that will talk to most RC brands. It's called a UnisensE and is made by SM Modelbau in Germany. They make 2 versions - 1 rated to 140 A (Euro 65.90) and one to 280 A (Euro 86.90). The difference seems to be just the size of wiring with which it is supplied. You can specify what type of connector or just bare wires. It just plugs between the pack and ESC and you plug into the Rx telemetry port. There is also a useful MAX/ACTUAL/MIN feature that allows you to look at MAX values and that needs another channel. There is also a lead to connect to one of the 3 phase wires to the motor that gives RPM. (Link) A customer of SM Modelbau has translated the manual into English but with the proviso that it is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate! I have to say that it's served me well enough. (Link) The device is very small and weighs between 15 - 20 g so really in your aircraft you can ignore that additional weight. This gives you a read out onto your Tx screen of a wide range of parameters: A, V, W, RPM, height, rate of climb etc. If your Tx supports it, you can also set pack capacity in the Tx and this will decrement based on the UnisensE current flow x time. One thing to note is that as soon as you switch off the Rx the information is lost! If you want to keep all the information then they sell the UniLog which has a micro SD card to record all the data. That is a bit more expensive at Euro 99. I have never used this system but I might be tempted to do so in the future. The English manual is here. Make sure you buy the USB cable with the item as that allows you to: firstly, set it up and, secondly, to take firmware updates. It really is very simple to set up and is an absolute boon when it comes to checking out the current draw for your installation. Obviously it can be used on the ground dispensing with external Wattmeters. In my opinion, they are worth their weight in gold as you can be sure of what is happening when the aircraft is airborne. I found that the airborne current/power can be reduced by up to 25% compared with figures derived when the aircraft is tied to the ground as the load on the prop then becomes much more than when the aircraft is free to fly and that means for electric motors that they just keep demanding more current till the white smoke appears!

Fantastic thread and very neat work. Great to watch. Thanks for posting. Toto

We had a lot of beginners coming for training with ARC models back in the 90's - they don't look as though they're good models when you're used to trad built stuff, but in fact did perform their task very well. Only snag was that the model shops often used to saddle unsuspecting newcomers with an MDS engine that if you were lucky was merely bad rather than hopeless.

Glad to hear it went OK Eric. It's a great looking model Graham

Two new ones from Old Warden last weekend £15 for the Raven, bnf and £30 for the Pawnee bargain!

My DB Major Mannock's pilot is an original 1960's action man [ from when I was a youngster] He is a French Resistance fighter version under his overalls and has a seatbelt to hold him in. And another in Bleriot XI. As you say the weight is not an issue for models like the DB Auster.

There's lots of self adhesive white gloss and matt vinyl available on eBay, plus you can still get the Model Technics trim line tapes in white - so it depends on the style of marking that you are requiring. For thin lines the Model Technics is easy to apply and looks good. https://www.rcworld.co.uk/acatalog/Trim-Line-White-T-TL02.html#SID=47

Thanks Paul, I live near Newcastle and I could do with some of your weather right now, our club field is on top of a hill and the wind changes direction throughout the day regularly. The plane was built for a model shop by someone who does not fly much , it is a first class build but I have had a lot of work sorting it out. The cowl was altered with the centre section being permanently attached to the fuselage so without major changes I was limited to what engine would fit in, the firewall was undrllled so I had to use a long drill bit for the engine mount bolts. I think it has some age as the rubber bands used to return the flap indicators were perished. Every thing else seems good, fingers crossed.

Now the spitty is painted...back on with this one.... Been working on the flaps today..... one sorted now the other 3..

The R/C flight line move (a couple of years ago now) was mainly to provide more distance between the R/C and free flight areas, (previously there had been some overflying of the FF area by R/C models), and the 'gap' left between then was then used for drones or helis as neither take up much airspace. I went both days (though I do live fairly close), it only costs an extra £5 for two days compared to one; as stated Saturday was wet so not a lot of outside activity but met up with a lot of previous acquaintances so was still good. That is part of the reason for going to such events. A bunch of us took turns on the flight sim. they had set up in one of the hangars, which was fun! At least at OW, if the weather does turn bad, there are always the hangars to look around, not forgetting the maintenance shed where you can often see one or two of the Collection's aircraft in the middle of maintenance. Yesterday was much better weather-wise and more flying was to be seen, but the bad forecast for the weekend had inevitably put off a lot of prospective visitors. The organisers can only organise so much, (not including the weather) and it is down to the rest of us to 'make it a show', whether we are fliers, spectators or traders. I had an interesting chat with the lady in the SLEC stand (yes they were selling balsa, ply, a selection of their little bags of fittings etc.). SLEC has now taken over the Belair Kits range and services, and they had a good selection of the (mainly) Peter Rake designed kits on sale as well. Brian.

I'm impressed/concerned you have more than one wife!.

The top of the bolt on the elevator is as shown. I added the horn accessories and turnbuckle with the nuts being blue thread locked later. The ball link above is fitted to the wrong side, but I corrected that subsequently. Lastly things look as though they line up nicely.

Always clean an IC powered model before you take it home!

Tota, back between 2011 and 2016 I flew both ic and electric powered float planes at the local lake which is close to my home. Its another great aspect of model aircraft flying that one day you might explore. Sadly, in 2016 the lake was taken over by another man who turned it into a water park with slides and all that stuff and that was the end of the float flying. But nonetheless I enjoyed five happy years there and the memories will always stay with me even I never float fly again. This is one of my float planes that I wired lights to and this photo was taken at dusk.

My current plan is "no more planes unless I completely trash one"...... been in place for 6 months and I've only bought 3!

Finally I put together a small video of several clips of the first flights:

The distance from servo to control horn is so much greater than the size of servo arm & control horn that it doesn't make any difference if the lines are crossed or not. It doesn't matter if the lines go slack when off centre as Ultymate said it's the pull line that's doing the work (That's why it's called "pull-pull" and in fact it's the prefered system. The diagrams below show the 5 possible set-ups giving 3 different geometries. A 2:1 gear down ratio is shown but it could be any ratio. a) is acceptable but the lines are always under tension putting strain on the servo bearings & control surface hinges even when the model isn't in use. b) & c) have the same geometry achieved from alternate ends. Both lines slacken when off normal but in flight air pressure keeps the pull line active. When the model is stored it's best to leave the servos a little off centre to relieve the constant strain on servo & hinges. d) & e) again similar geometry achieved from alternate ends. This time both lines will tighten up when off normal & get tighter as servo movement increases. This means the servo & control surface will be pulled towards each other & cause jamming. Not a workable system. Kris, the problem you're having is a bit puzzling. The only explanation I can think of for the lines staying tight in one direction whilst slackening in the opposite is some sort of assymetry in the geometry. E.G. in diagrams b) & c) if the lines were tensioned with the rudder was central but the servo arm off neutral I think this would cause what you're experiencing. I would need to sit down with a sketch pad, compasses & ruler to confirm this but I'm fairly confident it's the case.