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Martin Hodgson

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  1. It could well be an own design. I would draw up a wing, Eppler 374 wing section maybe, build and enjoy flying it.
  2. A bit late but here are some ideas for you Some down thrust is obviously needed, and/or mixing some down elevator as the throttle is opened. Regarding the poor soaring. The Sagitta was never a floater. The E205 (I assume you built it to plan) likes to move. Try flying it faster and keep it moving. Another option could be to add turbulators. 1 or 2 layers of car trim tape at about 20% chord back from the LE ( rough guess but it worked on my E205 wing). This should improve the lift generation at low speeds but will hurt the top speed. Experiment! Lastly, and this needs some work, strip off the top covering and extend the top sheeting to 40/45% of the chord. Wind tunnel testing has shown the E205 works much better when the sheeting is extended. Weight is not always a problem. I have quite happily thermalled soarers with 12 to 15oz/sqft wing loadings, but they didn't like flying the same way as my 5oz/sqft loaded Bird of Time. Hope that helps
  3. Slowing down is not really the issue. It is light enough to float in and small enough to be maneuverable. The real concern would be the boomer thermal and getting it down from altitude. Without spoilers you are left with spinning (not good on the wings if done incorrectly) or flying inverted.
  4. Build is looking good. Bit late to say but Spoilers would have been useful. Will be interested to see the nose conversion.
  5. If I recall the EMP Apex was available in an electric version. The interesting solution Dick Edmonds (I presume it was him) came up with was to put the motor on the fin. Odd but it worked.
  6. I always felt the eagle spar was too small in diameter. A bigger, woven tube would be stiffer spanwise and torsionally stiffer, while not adding much, if any, weight.
  7. Bottom hinge. Put a small gap cover over the top gap that keeps the flow smooth up to , say, 10 degrees down. Past that will be when you are wanting more drag than lift so it doesn't matter. For best effect/drag the flaps bneed to get to 70 plus degrees. I aim for 90. Many full house gliders use/used bottom hinge flaps
  8. Ordered a compressor, airbrush and paint from them. Selected free delivery (2 to 4 working days). Items arrived next day! Unfortunately the wrong compressors was included. By 9:30 next day I had the right compressor and the other one taken back at no cost or effort on my part. Excellent service.
  9. I tend to draw out the dihedral too. Yeh the chamfer was only a inch or so but it worked and worked well, never heard of one giving way. Myself I would stick with it (Stuart knew what he was doing) but replace the 2 layers of 180g tape with 4 or so layers of 80ish gram getting progressively wider (easier to blend) followed by final skinning with glass fibre. The key is to ensure you score/roughen the chamfered carbon well an apply good pressure to squeeze the epoxy/carbon in. Obviously use a good skinning/laminating resin.
  10. The only mention on the plan regards dihedral is 3 degrees as you see in one picture. That would be on both sides.
  11. Some Details you may need like cg positions   Detail of the centre, with 2 layers of 180g tap/cloth over joint. Whole wing was finished in 35g cloth and had 100g glass cloth under the veneer, along with reiforcment patches at the joints. How the joint is layed up How the chamfer is created Edited By Martin Hodgson on 21/10/2020 17:35:24
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