Bob Cotsford

The Ethos ports for the X10 (and the coming X12S port) are beta test at the moment so hopefully significant bugs won't appear in the final release. So far there's no import/export utility for transferring models from either FrSky or OpenTX but that's not to say one won't appear in the near(ish) future. One chappie on RCGroups has found that it's quite quick and easy to swap between OpenTX and Ethos on the X10 by keeping both installation files on the SD card and copying whichever you want to FIRMWARE.BIN. I haven't tried it myself so don't know whether models are picked up correctly on reinstalling the alternate OS's. Certainly sound and image folders use different names so should be able to co-exist on the SD card but I'm not sure about the Models folder.

I'm not sure what qualifies as limited compatibility, it is compatible with all FrSky D16 receivers so that's going back to 2014. Even D8s can be made compatible with Mike Blanfords firmware installed, which takes us back to 2011-ish. Only the early V series are excluded. As for the EthOS operating system, people have been complaining that OpenTX is too complex and geeky, now FrSky have attempted to create something easier to get to grips with but retaining the technical abilities. As for having to factor in the cost of a new radio and a pile of new receivers, why? What's wrong with what you have? I may choose to buy an X20, but not because any of my existing gear has suddenly stopped working. If I do buy one then I'll simply bind my current rxs to it.

The last RC Modellers Canopy Glue that I bought came in a tube and comes out like toothpaste, ideal for forming fillets. I usually then cover the joint with a strip of covering film to match the fuselage, about 1cm wide works well. Deluxe claim that it sets in 60 minutes, take that with a pinch of salt as it can take a couple of days to set on the inside of the canopy.

Maybe for a track day John, but driving to that on public roads would be just asking for a speeding ticket ?

I'm sure there used to be a 'how I dumbthumbed' type thread somewhere here.

Thanks Mark, I'll have to see if my 4in1 has the E129 already or needs updating.

Mark, how have you configured it in OpenTX? ie mixers, rates etc.

I had a Ripster many years ago, in fact it was one of my first forays into both brushless/lipo power and 2.4GHz radio. Good kit for the price, and it flew well. Last year I tried to buy a kit from their 5 Star Adhesives Ebay shop but at that time there were problems sending items to the UK because of the lockdown.

Optimist!

MM support is built in by default now. My Taranis runs a 4in1 just fine set up as yours - except I included heli tabs.

How about tissue over laminating film? I've not tried it but one of the claims for it is that it's supposed to give the rigidity of tissue with improved puncture resistance.

Ah! My theme song ?

I had a Tiffie kit that was 90% veneered foam around a 1/4" balsa crutch back in the late 70s/ early 80s. About 54" span for a .40 with fixed undercart, it flew really well for several years until a tree based incident. I don't remember what brand the kit was but there was a range of WW2 types based aroud a .40 powerplant. I do remember seeing the later Chiltern range including the Provost and Chippie in the local model shop (that should tell you how long ago it was!).

Not in 'Latest Posts', at least I don't see them! Anyway, back to the plot! Seeing that wing it's scary to think how much real estate the 103" version would occupy!

On the old site you could see whether you were talking to yourself by the number of views, or lack thereof. Now we only see the number of posts which is a shame.

I don't use my Taranis very often now so some things get lost in the general brain fog. IIRC the Taranis holds model setups in it's flash memory so Companion has the option to backup the radio to a file on your PC which you don't get with the Horus transmitters, as well as the usual option to save models and settings. Horuses (Horii?) store everything of consequence on the SD card so you don't get the option to backup the radio to file or to write to the transmitter from a backup file. You just get the option to read and write firmware or to save or load models and settings on file. If you go into the model selection screen (short press Menu), place the cursor on a model then long press Ent you will get options including Select Model, Copy Model and Backup Model. This last one makes a copy of that model on your SD card. If you want to restore a backed-up model then you select an empty model memory, press enter and select Restore. This will list the backups available on the SD card.

On the Taranis isn't there an option under model selection for backup to SD card? If I remember I'll dig mine out in the morning and check.

Ah, missed that bit! If you update regularly, have a photographic memory or keep notes then updating isn't overly complex. Unfortunately I have a mind like a sieve so have often managed to overwrite my models folder with older versions or similar basic errors. The SD card update is probably the area causing more grey hairs than anything else with OpenTX, so unless going between major releases (eg 2.1 to 2.2 or 2.2 to 2.3) it's easiest to just change the version file (unless the release notes indicate otherwise).

If it was me I'd update your TX to the latest version, 3.11, as your 2.2.4 is still 3 years or so out of date.

How odd! I've just tried downloading various X9 SD card images from the OpenTX site and non of them contain any BMPs in the Image folder! Horus SD cards still contain them, but not Taranis models. I'll try pasting my Image folder from my Taranis SD card folder, I still have 2.2 installed so lets see how that works ? Images.zip

I suspect that you may have used 'backup radio to file' or something like that, in which case what you backed up will be the firmware, not the SD card. All the 'stock' images are on the SD card image that you download from the OpenTX site. Here's what was in v0026, it's the earliest I can find on my PC

I've always thought that it would be good to have something like a 'B' test video showing not just how it should be done but also what would be considered sub-par to answer those 'am I good enough' questions.

Too much or just enough power? Depends on the model. A vintage model will be a handful with too much power while a classic aerobatic model is more of a ballistic missile and it's hard to overpower something like a Curare or even a sports model of that era such as a Bullet or Tornado. Talking of Acrowots, my old kit built one flew a treat with an ASP 52 4 stroke - as a small field aerobat. With a 61 2 stroke it was a different beast, ideal for big sky aerobatics. Horses for courses.

You need to copy the SD card contents using File Explorer not Companion. If you look in file explorer with the tx plugged in you should see the SD card as a new drive.

Those models that I've weighed tend to be a couple of ounces over the stated AUW, but then I don't tend to skimp on power within reason, whether IC or electric. I often seem to need a touch of tail weight?. I recall that when I were a lad the model shops were full of wonderful Solarbo balsa in grades from feather light to rock hard so you could actually find ultra light balsa block for infills, solid tails et al. Now it all seems medium to hard grades unless you catch the delivery of new stock that still has some light stuff left, or order contest grade. I'm afraid that I don't follow the 'lighter is always better' theory of flight either, at least not for the average British day. A LITTLE more weight helps smooth things out in the often turbulent air at low levels.