Dale Bradly

Toto, don't go there. Don't go and pull your brand new, factory set, equipment apart because of some random YT video. 99% of other gas modellers haven't done such extreme tests and adjustments either. I've got 3 gassers similar to yours, including stingers and a 21cc twin. All run like sewing machines and haven't been pulled apart.

It's your failsafe telling it to throttle up on loss of radio signal. Set it properly and it won't do it.

Nick, I'm at the same place as you. I've been trawling the interwebs trying to find an existing sequence to copy, but haven't found one yet. Ive spent the last year pondering maneovers to use, and looking for guidance on how to string a sequence together, but haven't. What i have found is of course most of this stuff is aimed at aerobatics, and not at warbird display flying. That said, the basics are the same. I presume you are familiar with the name "Aresti"? e.g. https://iac24.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Aresti-2012-Catelog.pdf It seems that the system is protected, so perhaps that's why there doesn't seem to be a lot to freely download, however there are plenty of resources on the net about the scheme, and symbology to use. Names for such things may be less forthcoming. One thing i found not very helpful was YT videos: With all the editing typically in the videos, zooming in and out, and usually the ground not being in reference, they provided little help in actually identifying something that i wanted to copy into my sequence. On the flipside, what was very helpful was attending a large (fullsize) airshow recently, armed with a notepad, and scribbling down notes of display pieces that i liked so i could then incorporate these pieces into my own routine. What i realized is that: (my opinion only) A model display consist largely of: passing left to right while "doing something", turning around at the end, passing right to left while doing something, turning around at the end.... I need to do this without boredom setting in, so not repetitive It needs to be entertaining for an onlooker to watch, e.g. start simply, and build to a climax It needs to be able to be reversed relatively simply depending on wind/circuit direction it needs to suit warbird models, i.e. i believe snap rolls have no place in this routine. it needs to be universal, so it could be flown in a Tiger Moth or a Sea Fury that said, it should be easy to modify, e.g. the Tiger Moth could drop out the high speed pass (!) as that's pointless, but the Sea Fury could easily take another fit another, all depending on the model. So the most productive time i have spend was just this last weekend where i spent 2 or 3 hours flying a plastic model around my living room, "modelling" the routine i wanted and scribbling notes on a whiteboard, editing as i went, until i had figured out what i would fly, in what order. This was quite important, trying to keep the display flowing, and figuring out things like "the last maneuver finished at x height, at y speed, so now that i know that, what is the next thing that suits this starting position", trying to keep it smooth and comfortable. My sequence starts with takeoff, followed by "horizontal" maneuvers, that is not changing in height, e.g. passes and aileron rolls, then bringing in vertical maneuvers, e.g. loops and cuban eights, before progressing into combinations of the above, where the start and finish are on 45 degree lines, and/or differing heights between start and finish, culminating in a downwind high speed pass to circle and break for landing. I might publish my sequence when ive confirmed i like it and it works (i'm practicing it on the sim for the near future) but i recommend grabbing a toy plane (even a paper dart) and waving it around your living room and see what flows out of that. Dale

Track down some uncertified ceconite from a full-size aviation supplier or aircraft workshop. Made from same material as koverall, but with a tighter weave so easier to fill/paint.

I use LiFe for Rx and ignitions in all new stuff for the last several years. A couple of legacy models remain on Nixx tech. Reasons for LiFe preference: availability, cost, and also a statistical basis that the more items (i.e. cells and joins between those cells) you have the more chance of a failure somewhere in the system.

As you state this is an ignition battery, I assume it's on a gasser. And therefore I assume the model has an onboard electronic ignition cutoff. FWIW: I've had two instances of where these 2 different ignition cutoffs have, over days/weeks, drained the ignition battery. Clearly there is some form of leakage through the cutoffs. So still needs a isolation switch between the ignition battery and the cutoff, and don't forget to turn it off! Since learning this, all my gas models have Rx and ignition switches mounted adjacent each other, and fitted with some form of indicator light to assist with preventing the slow discharge as above.

And Futaba's throttle direction is reversed relative to Spektrum so you will have to reconfigure this too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/166595925546 One of these is the best starter I've owned. Two different buttons to give you options. Starts anything.

During the above process, are you unplugging the esc's "servo" plug from the Rx? And then is there the remotest chance when you plug the esc "servo" back into the rx, it's going in upside down? (Whence the Rx will have no power, but the esc will be undamaged). Because if the process that GG posted here is all that is truthfully happening (which is by definition absolutely normal) and the result is 4(?) esc's have suffered damage because of this process, then you are the only person in the history of RC flying that this has happened to. Have you given one of the failed esc's to a third party to take home and check, remote from the rest of your setup? If not, please consider this.

I spent several years thrashing the pants off a Precision Aerobatics Addiction, and a few GWS foamies at sports fields. Made me a much better overall flier.

Note the unit that RottenRow linked to specifically states "without BEC" so presumably Bonzo Moon's is the same

They pull 10+ Amps on startup, could be for a couple of mins (powering the igniter) so bear that in mind with whatever you use. Once running, the load drops (mostly the fuel pump) Mine runs on the same converted pc power supply i use to power my batt charger.

Bruce, the inner expands at the same rate. And herin lies the problem. The outer is fixed between two ridgid points. The inner is secured between the servo, which to all intents and purposes is fixed, and the control surface horn, which by definition is certainly not fixed! So any expansion needs to be accomodated /allowed for, without said expansion/contraction affecting the one "free" end of the inner. Install methodology has a huge part to play in how successfully this is achieved.

I have had massive issues with sullivan snakes changing length with temperature. In my experience, i measured 1% change in length for a 40° change in temp. This can be problematic if you build/fly in such temp ranges (as i do). A previous thread on here somewhere refers. 1% might be a small number, but over a 600mm length, compared with the actual travel provided by the servo, this can result in significant changes in length, so i am very wary of them now. They need to be installed correctly to minimize this effect. Ignore at your peril. (fix the ends of the outer very securely, the rest of the inners somewhat free to move, and the snake must have some gradual bends in it (can't be run in a straight line from servo to surface).

I've had a B-25, about 2m span. Behaved the same.

Toto you're probably realising that every question you post will have a multitude of possible answers. There usually isnt a right or wrong. Its as often as not what you feel comfortable with, or what you have on hand. I wont tell you how to do it, but if i was gluing the the tailplane components together, i would do as you say, with tape and "hinge" it together while the glue dries, sitting on the bench under some weight so it aint going anywhere. I would however use masking tape, as thats what i have on hand and will pull cleanly off the balsa without pulling wood fibres apart. And i would use PVA (or a derivative of). The one glue i wouldnt use is CA, as it carries the risk of setting up while im bringing the parts together while trying to line them up in 3 dimensions; and its a pain to sand cleanly. I do the vast majority of my model building with PVA. to answer your question, almost Any glue we use in general modelling is almost always significantly stronger than the wood components, so there is no concern around strength compromise. If in.doubt, try it. Glue some scraps together in a similar manner to the proposed joint and then once properly cured, break it. You be surprised. The common combination that i find doesnt work well is ply+CA, and of course big surface area will always adhere better than small surface area. YMMV in all areas of course.

I do not wish to discuss the legalities of doing so, but one thing i do is take the plan to the local copy shop. I get 2 copies made. One is fullsize, because experience has taught me that at the end of the build my plans are fit only for the bin. Having the spare is the one to keep for future ref. The other copy i get on A3 (or similar convenient size) to pin to the wall. You're building a 3 dimensional object from 2D plans, so its helpful to be able to see the whole plan at once to assist with understanding how it goes together, without having to shuffle around large pages all the time. YMMV.

Built 3. Great wood and fit. Almost fall together. But note I'm in NZ so biased!

I'm not a huge fan of foam models in this situation (Low hour pilot/aermodeller combined with lack of parts). Yes gluing foam itself back together is completely feasible and easy, but its the proprietary motor mounts, hinges, undercarriage mounts etc that they all seem to come with that are unobtainium after purchase, that leads to arkward/heavy/ugly repairs/mods to be useable later. Caveman, good work on the funcub, i have one (still with its original fuse mind you!) so i can appreiciate what you made.

Since discovering these, im completely sold. seperate fill line, no stupid brass tubes which rotate in the bung, and easy to see any issues such as interior condition/contaminants (and fuel level!)

I have 2x models flown regularly, with 20cc gas and 6-7 servos in each, and seperate 2s LiFe batts in the 1500mAh range for radio and ignition. Typically they would be operated/flown/powered for around 20min per day. I find i put about 450mAH back into each batt. (Interestingly i find there is very little difference between radio and ignition batt for the same flight duration) No need to balance charge every time, so this is easiset done at home when wing is off anyway. Likewise as im at no risk of taking batt any where near discharged on a typical day at the field, i dont need to check batt levels between flights.

Shiny! Very nice

I use the pritt stick method, the other option i use regularly is to print/copy the plan/part required with a laser printer. Then iron the part (toner side down) onto your balsa(etc) witn a hit iron and a bit of force. Toner is cured by heat, so the ironing process will transfer toner from the plan to your balsa, leaving a clearly visible "reverse print" directly on the wood ready to cut. In terms of cutting, i cant live without my bandsaw, and also my 12" mitre saw. Is perhaps overkill, but i didnt buy it for modelling. Loaded with a fine kerf 120 tooth blade, it makes short work of roughing ply items down to size, cutting spars, 1/2" balsa etc.

I acknowledge you'd pdefer the Dora, but as an option Tony Nijhuis will scale his plans to any size. I have his 60" FW190A plan printed at 82.5". Pretty easy build.

On its way Graham. Anyone else need a scan of anything?