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J.N.

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  1. J.N.

    glow plug tool

    Posted by J.N. on 31/10/2015 15:23:57: I need to make up a glow plug removal tool due to choosing a model of glow engine that places the glow plug very close to the fire wall. I dare not remove anymore of the woodwork in the engine bay and by making up a section of hexagonal tube I will be able to remove the plug without having to first remove the engine. I am trying to source a length of hexagonal tube with an outside across flats width of 10mm and an internal across flats width of 8mm. The attached photo of the end of a glow plug tool is an example of what is needed. If all else fails I could buy a section of 8mm across flat width hexagon solid bar ( which is readily available) and use is as a former to hammer the glow plug tool around it. However, I much prefer to use hexagonal tube and cut to size but I have not had any luck in sourcing a suitable piece of steel hexagonal tubing . Does anyone know where I can buy a small length of steel hexagonal tube as above, or a full length fully formed box spanner, 10mm outside, 8mm inside. Thanks, I have resubmitted with a photo, a photo is worth a thousand words. As you can see there is not much room to play around with, around 18mm. If I can make up a section of tubing to slip over the plug I can then use an open ended spanner to unscrew the plug. I agree that it may be possible to use a tommy bar but it would not be able to pass through the tube due to fouling the plug.
  2. J.N.

    glow plug tool

    I need to make up a glow plug removal tool due to choosing a model of glow engine that places the glow plug very close to the fire wall. I dare not remove anymore of the woodwork in the engine bay and by making up a section of hexagonal tube I will be able to remove the plug without having to first remove the engine. I am trying to source a length of hexagonal tube with an outside across flats width of 10mm and an internal across flats width of 8mm. The attached photo of the end of a glow plug tool is an example of what is needed. If all else fails I could buy a section of 8mm across flat width hexagon solid bar ( which is readily available) and use is as a former to hammer the glow plug tool around it. However, I much prefer to use hexagonal tube and cut to size but I have not had any luck in sourcing a suitable piece of steel hexagonal tubing .   Does anyone know where I can buy a small length of steel hexagonal tube as above, or a full length fully formed box spanner, 10mm outside, 8mm inside.   Edited By J.N. on 31/10/2015 15:25:17 Edited By J.N. on 31/10/2015 15:26:34
  3. Posted by simon barr on 16/02/2015 09:43:31: Hello J.N. Yes, connect the right aileron to Ch 1 and the left to Ch 6. Then make sure that both the flap setting FLPR, and the flap trim FLTR are set to zero %. Scroll down to ELVN, and that should be just flashing three lines... That should now have connected the two aileron servos, which will allow independent setting up for each servo. Thanks. I needed to know which direction I was heading before I got around to twiddling with the computer thingie.
  4. I have a Futaba 6 channel 6EXA 35MHz. and having difficulty in equalizing the wing aileron movement, driven by a single servo in a model I am building. An easy solution would be to fit an aileron servo for each wing half. In two recent articles in the RCM&E I have read that by fitting two servoes, one driven by channel 1 and the other driven by channel 6 will allow me to individually set each servo independent of the other. My instruction book for the 6EXA states that coupling channels 1 and 6 in the Flaperon mode will achieve the independent setting but servo travel will be reduced to 60% and 40%, I presume this has something to do with the Dual Rate Switch. All I want to do is to be able to have normal aileron movement as per the building plan for straightforward leisure flying. Can someone please advice if the Flaperon mode on my set is the way to do it. Thanks.
  5. I am genuinely puzzled with regard to the following question and it is not an attempt to instigate a protracted discussion. I was about to solder some gold plated connectors then thought to check if a dedicated solder/flux was needed (as with soldering stainless steel) and then call in at Maplins to buy the necessary solder. I looked up the internet and read an interesting article on the Wikipedia site. It was stated that soldering gold plated connectors had its problems in that the gold and solder melt into each other to a greater or lesser degree, leading to complications. I know it is all very technical and way above my retirement pension grade but I will be interested to know what is what. In the meantime I will solder the gold connectors with my normal resin cored tin/lead solder.
  6. I recall reading about the types of electric connectors in a previous issue of RCM&E. I thought it was a dedicated feature around mid 2014 however I have looked through the whole (less Jan 2014) of 2014 and the whole of 2013 and I cannot find it, unless of course it was in the Jan edition. Can anyone please point me in the right direction. Thanks.
  7. Posted by Essjay on 23/01/2015 22:11:21: Probably too late now but Maplins have them Link Edited By Essjay on 23/01/2015 22:28:16 Edited By Essjay on 23/01/2015 22:28:39 Thanks. Yes I have ordered 2 x sets from another source. It appears that I had the wrong description for the U.K., these connectors are called SAE and only known as trailer connectors in the specialized motor trade.
  8. Posted by J.N. on 22/01/2015 20:56:32: SORTED. Found a U.K. source. J.N.
  9. Posted by Brian Lambert on 22/01/2015 22:52:14: Like these? Link Yes just like "these" however the postage is the problem. Thanks. Edited By J.N. on 23/01/2015 09:08:17
  10. Does anyone know where I can obtain a 2 pole connector similar to what is shown in the photo. This particular connector is part of my Yuasa battery charger. Similar connectors are common in the USA, and called Cole Hersee Universal Trailer Connector 2 Pole, or bullet connector, however, having connectors sent over from the USA is a very expensive option. I want to make up a couple of dedicated fitting charging leads to enable me to use the one charger for various charging needs and need to source some connectors, failing this type of connector does anyone know of an alternative. Thanks.
  11. The photo is a typical situation of the problem I have with drilling holes in tight spaces. In this particular instance I am using a collet holder with a 2mm drill,  bit turned by hand to drill through 3mm light ply  and then use a 4.5mm drill bit, on its own,  by hand.  In thin light ply I can manage but the problem arises when it is ply or wood in a space that is too small to use a hand. I am looking for a tool that will allow one handed operation and able to hold up to a 4mm drill in either a chuck or collet. I have looked at battery powered drill/grinder multi tools (such as the Proxxon) but you get a lot of bulk to power a small diameter drill bit. I am wondering if a flexible shaft drive is the way to go. Has anyone any advise. Thanks. Edited By J.N. on 19/10/2014 14:00:59
  12. Posted by Ruprect Spode on 07/03/2013 11:37:14: Nothing beats a long cold soak overnight. Using heat/steam and chemicals only serve to break down the fibres and natural resins within the wood and when it dries it becomes brittle. OK they are only models and I suppose speed of construction is an issue.   Yes it can be done. This is as per the bath. The balsa sheet is 3.25mm thick soft to medium grade and was slowly tightened around a former over a period of 2 days and then left to dry. . Edited By J.N. on 10/02/2014 10:53:47
  13. What was the outcome of this topic. I bought a SHM glow support some years ago and have been pleased with its performance, backup and help from SHM. I need to fit another model with a glow support and although I am happy to stick with what I know ( if it aint broke type of thing) I wonder if I should consider a more modern offering. The price of a unit is not an issue.
  14. Posted by Bob Cotsford on 14/01/2014 12:33:22: APC are a fair bit quieter than the blunt Graupner props on our club noise meter, and I'm pretty sure they give notably less thrust. Graupner Sonics are ok, they are similar in shape to APC. It did occur to me that the Graupner Sonic is similar to an APC. Perhaps Herr Graupner can throw some light onto the query. J.N.
  15. On my glow engined models, ASP, OS LA, OS FX, and OS four stroke, I am using a mixture of standard Graupner propellers and standard APC propellers. I suppose the Graupner could be considered wide and the APC considered a scimitar shape, no matter, the two are shaped very differently. I am using APC because Just Engines recommended them and Graupner because I included them when I made up an order for Graupner bits and pieces. Since then, I have continued to buy both makes. I am aware that us mere mortals are advised to try different propellers but I cannot tell any difference, perhaps because I just plod around the sky. Can some expert please tell me why one shape of propeller (as above) is better then the other.
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