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martin collins 1

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Everything posted by martin collins 1

  1. The A123 packs i have are 5 cells and i have 4 of them which i made for a 10ft B17 i used to fly, one pack per motor, they are 3300 mah, i compared them in an 75" fighter i used to fly the comparison pack was a 4000mah 4s lipo. I got as much endurance and performance from both packs as i could drain the A123 pack virtually to nothing without the risk of ruining the pack or puffing the cells. I have had these packs for probably 8 years now and they still charge up exactly as they did when new and i can leave them on a shelf for over a year without touching them and still they perform once charged. I cannot fault these cells and they will fast charge without problems as i used to do to get the B17 in the air as quickly as possible for a second sortie! The shape of the packs makes them ideal to fit in where the old glow fuel tank used to sit. I wouldn`t swap them for lipos although i do fly other planes with those..........Martin
  2. Hi all, just bought this Magister, looks like a Bryant one at 68" wingspan, the engine bay arrangement with the beech bearers etc is a givaway. Wings however are foam not built up, i guess someone had them cut to save time (not weight!) This is going to be an electric conversion using a 5 cell A123 pack, looking for a suitable motor at the moment, have used Prop drives before at this size but i will see what`s around or may pick up a good used motor if something is out there. Will probably be repainted in the yellow scheme of Peter Holloway`s one that was at Old Warden as i had a flight in that a number of years ago, even took the stick for a few minuets. Will have to make up a set of trousers and spats for it, any offerings on the best way to produce and secure to the wire undercarriage legs? ...............Martin Edited By martin collins 1 on 28/09/2018 13:06:57
  3. Hi Geoff, what was the fix you found on the Dynam 110, a pal of mine has one still in it`s box and would be interested to know how you got round the problem?............Martin
  4. Here`s my latest project, 1/4 scale GeeBee Model E Sportster, i think it is built from the Tom Weemes plans which say .60 2 stroke up or.91 fourstroke up, flying weight 11 Lbs. I don`t fly glow so it is a toss up between electric or petrol. Mostly i fly electric, the only downside of that on this plane will be battery access as it is too nice to cut a hatch in the top and taking the wings off for access means removing the rigging wires. Any thoughts, if i went the petrol route ca anyone recommend an engine which would fly it with authority but fit within the cowl?..........Martin Edited By martin collins 1 on 09/09/2018 14:54:38
  5. Sorry to resurrect this old thread, just bought a Silhouette at the Nats, looks old but unflown with a poor covering effort. Going electric with this on 4s, if it flies as nice as i think it might i will recover it over the winter. Someone on here had a new cowl, if it is still out there i would like it as this one has been cut for an i.c motor, may make some spats up as i think it lends itself to them............Martin
  6. I bought an ex FMS P-51 motor cheap to use on a project i am working on and want to use an APC 2 blade electric prop, the prop adapter however has a hex part where i assume the P-51 4 blader locates. Anyone worked round this before, does it mean a new prop adapter? Thanks for any help................Martin
  7. My receiver is not a problem as it is 10 channels, the previous owner may have had less channels on his rx though.
  8. Ok, i have goofed here, sorry for misleading you, i have re checked the wiring and there are two Y leads, one goes to the battery kill switch and the ignition battery LED lights. The second Y lead is for the left aileron and the rx battery, i guess this makes sense as on the rx the battey power cannot go through the throttle port where it would be on an electric model.............Martin
  9. I have a 1/4 scale BUSA Fokker D7 with a Zenoah 38 on electronic ignition, it is fitted with an engine kill switch, the rx was removed from the plane when i bought it. I have traced all the wires back so i can connect to my rx but one has got me scratching my head. The wire from the kill switch is on a Y lead with the left hand aileron? Will this work, surely it needs to go into a separate channel on the rx............... Any answers appreciated.................Martin
  10. Great models, very nice flyers and will take a few knocks. I would recommend them as great fun............Martin
  11. Most had the Gypsy engine though this one had a Napier Javelin in originally, the full size survives in a museum in Brussels an it`s history can be found here:- **LINK** I am a fan of these 30`s /40`s /50`s British light aircraft, Miles and Percival particularly, i have plans here for the Bryant Magister and a 90" span Proctor though not enough time to build at the moment. Power is by an NTM Propdrive 50-50 580kv motor on 5s A123 cells (nice compact pack) and a 14x8 wood electric prop, the 70 4 stroke ran on a 14x8 and i`m sure i will be turning quite a few more revs than that did. Maybe we should start a thread on these type of British light aircraft?
  12. The Code 4 servos are exactly the same size and hole centers as the Hitec ones i have.
  13. The plane as bought had no battery in it, the servos look like new and the aileron ones are not even connected, there is string running through the wings to pull the servo wiring through. I saw a Bryant Gull flying at Old Warden a couple of weeks ago and spoke to the pilot, he said his flew very nicely, it looked like it did too. I am going to put differential in the ailerons, maybe your friends one suffered from too much down aileron? A flying buddy of mine had a Flair Atilla with ailerons which would flip the opposite way as you turned due to that, once he put in more up than down aileron it was totally cured. Edited By martin collins 1 on 28/05/2018 11:55:50
  14. Do you know i have a feeling you might be right, they have the same number on them (322) as one of the Hitec servos, are they a relabeled Hitec, or a cheap knock off?
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