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Chris Dowell

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Posts posted by Chris Dowell

  1. Keith.

    Go take a look over in RCG..............  autogyro..............mantis 3D printed files....#113

    I sliced using creality print  old verson ..not 5.0     and not creality  slicer.

    If you want any more details ..just ask.


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  2. Yes Steve,   Your model appeared to be OK in flight but it did look as if it was struggling with the ROG. You will have noticed in my video ,the model was on a short run and jumped into the air.with both type of blades.

    Here are the weights you asked for..

    Fuz alone  29.3 ozs

    Balsa blades 510 X 55 mm  5.9 ozs

    Printed blades 500 X 65 mm  7.45 ozs

    lipo 6.9 ozs     which comes to model with balsa blades =2.63 lbs

    model with Printed blades 2.72 lbs

    Now this is not much lighter than your model. I'm sure both models are carrying considerably ballast up front.

    I have found that when flying with the printed blades I have to reduce the back trim considerably. The model also flies very well on the balsa blades.

    I don't know if you have a 3D printer or a good friend with one ,because these blades designed by Paul B are the way to go.

    I was always worried of the damage that may be caused by striking the ground. Pleased to say that I have tested them for this as well as the blades making contact and folding on arrival.All OK

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  3. At my club we have under cover tables to set up our models .My models when not flying are always under cover. My car has good A/C and so there is no prob in transport. And so the heat is not a problem of coarse my workshop is well insulated. That is apart from the one time I left a printed cub in my car which was in the garage (that is not insulated)and it now have a very distinctive ripple to the wing.

  4. I tried a set of Paul Bray's printed blades on the beast today and was very happy with the results.

    The blades are printed in PLA and are 500mm X 65mm with a weight of 57 gms.

    The entire assembly comes in at 206 grams compared to a similar set of balsa blades at 175 gms . Although 30 grams heavier ,I was most impressed by the performance.

    I had no tip weigh and found them to spin up in a light breeze.

    This is the 90 mm wheel that is also printed.

    I did have a video of this flight ....but I lost it.




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  5. Greetings  Steve..

    I always spread the wheels as far apart as possible on all my models.it helps with spill on landing.

    420mm from inside to inside. The wheels are 90 mm printed and find they are so easy to see and do help with the angle of attack. I think you could see in the video how easy the blades spun up whilst the model was stationary.

    Sorry that I was unable to post the video on this site.


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  6. That is one fine printed project .I do have a question re the blades. What size are the blades ,what is there weight and what is the weight of the complete blade assembly.

    Yes ,I am printing blades for this model and need to compare.

     Happy Landings


  7. We always were on the same page ...it's just that you are on the top line and I on the bottom one.😂

    Unfortunately I have not been flying recently .My flying club is located very close to the sea and when the wind comes from that direction it can become unflyable in a couple of minutes.

    But yesterday I got me a new printer. Just released Ender 3 v3 core XZ . Man its like a jack rabbit on steroids' .

    It's like this ,that every time I get a new electronic toy .I go through this like, hate period.

    I like it but it hates me .

    But this new toy was extremely easy on me and we are now good friends...well that's until it starts playin up ...and it will ,one day.

    I happen to have a set of 600mm blades lying around so I hope to make a two blade set to try on this model. So what is the starting angle on the head ?


  8. I just worked out what you mean.

    5 Pence.

    You could said that you added a metal disc with a diameter between 18 / 23.59 mm with a weight of between 3.2/5.65 gms ...just to make it clear .



  9. No Steve ,you are not the only one to have this problem.I actually split the fuz in half during construction as I was installing the side rails into the slot,the grain split.

    After flooding the joint with thin CA and quite a lot of bad language all held together.

    I suggested to Rich that the center 6mm core should have the grain vertical stopping this problem .AND I also had a similar problem with the U/C mounting ply.I performed a heli landing with no roll out (straight down) and found out later that the wire U/C had spread splitting the ply. CA applied to the split ply and a couple of bolts above the wire so it cant happen again.


    • Thanks 1
  10. The model is one nice looking 3D project .All the colours will definitely help with orientation.



    A farthing is a 1/4 of a penny...which is 1/12 of a a shilling which is 1/20 of a pound .I guessing you are unaware of pre metric.😲


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  11. Sorry bout that.

    So when you step out of your back door in the morning and are hit by 31deg in the shade you kind of know that this is not the best conditions to fly cos your eye balls dry up in the wind .So this has been one of the problems that I have been unable to fly, so I had to find other ways to pass the time.

    Whilst perusing thingiverse I spied a blade sanding jig that had been designed for the Panther /Gyroo. So off I went and printed this work of art.

    I came out pretty good but was designed for 6mm balsa and I wanted to use 7mm .I could have modified the print but decided to make one out of a timber composite material.

    I have now made two sets of blades and am pretty happy with the result, not that I ever had a problem sanding blades but this set up gives me a more constant profile. I did find on the first pass that I had few prominent score marks ,but found that brushing on water and allowing to dry raised the wood and then when sanding longways on the blade all the imperfections disappeared (well most of them ) One very important thing came out of this project was that not one speck of sawdust was lost during the project as I had the shopvac hooked up .I have seen that sanding is a problem with some of you.Take note Rich  .I have a spare set of blades with no model.

    Now on to a bit of 3D printing. I did design a motor mount that did not have offset ,but during early testing foundthat it did not suitable this model and so I have made a few versions with a 6mm offset. This uses a crimp plate similar to the wooden version. Rich advised me that the ply version came in at 13 grams and my one came in a little heavier at around 16 gms.I realize that this was an unnecessary project but I just wanted to play with tinkercad to see if this old guy could actually do it .I use a couple of British farthing's a s tip weight an her is my very low teck /light weight / non digital 15 deg angle tester .Lets see if I can add a couple of pics to let you see what I was on about.

    I do like the one of the tree support ,It makes the part look organic.












  12. SJ2   I have a question re the Minidigital Protractor that you are using on this project. I have been looking at them for years ,but was thinking that the weight of the unit would affect its reading on our lightweight models such as when holding the model at the balance point and sitting the unit on the horizontal stab because sometimes the stab is the only horizontal point to get a reading.

    I do like the your choice of colour scheme on your model .I bet it took longer than the build.



  13. Back to the picture Rich    Are you showing that the motor is not square to the boom/ because to me it looks a if the motor is pointing away from the boom? but have been known to get things wrong in the past.😕

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  14. On 27/01/2024 at 07:31, Richard Harris said:


    Thanks for the Pic Rich The AUW of my model came in at 1108gms..soundf a bit heavy This was because I did not have access to Light ply..just the old domestic DIY stuff.I know its a bit sad ,but unfortunately the light ply is unavailable as well as unaffordable.

    I have made my model as a one piece job and so I could/should have used balsa down the back under the stab and I'm pretty sure this would have saved me adding around a 100gm to the nose. I did this by removing a whole chunk of balsa from between the ply outer skins on the underside of the nose. So there is your ballast box rich already built into the design. My model is ready to go apart from finding the motor that I had, did not have the get up and go .I now see that my new  motor is in transit but has been rejected by Australian customs .So let that be a warning ,do not try to smuggle a brushless motor into the country..What a pity as the weather has been pretty flyable recently and no sign of floods like in the UK recently.


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  15.  Hopefully ,I may not have a balance problem as you will notice that I have modified the top ,front of the fuz just a little trying to get that "Calidus" kind of a profile and I am not in a position to get my hands on light ply. My biggest hold up at the moment is waiting for some props to arrive.


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