Mastercrashman

Perhaps it’s more important that IC values for each cell are similar rather than setting a benchmark limit??

I’ve looked at a number of videos and internal resistance IR is considered to be a good indicator of battery health. Readings of 20 milliohm and above per cell would be a call for battery retirement. Readings in the high teens would be an indicator that the battery is nearing retirement. With my stock of 3S batteries, however, I find those readings to be at odds with the visual battery conditions. I’ve got Turnigy and Zippy batteries over 3 years old slightly bloated with readings of less than 10 milliohm per cell. On the other hand I’ve got Gens Ace two years old and Overlander one year old no swelling at all, giving good performance and the internal resistances are in the high teens per cell. I do have 3 batteries which I’ve found to be shockingly around 30 milliohm per cell which give reasonable performance but I’ve retired them. I always balance charge my batteries and now reduce them to storage charge when I’m not flying, the latter I’ve only started to do quite recently. On his website, Painless360, discusses the issue in a short video titled “Why is Battery Internal Resistance Important?” Its worth a look.

Yes, I do keep my batteries cool. I store them in an ex-ammo box on the garage concrete floor. What I haven’t been doing is keeping them below full charge. Usually flying at weekends has meant they get a weekly recycle with the occasional older battery showing signs of swelling. This year the swelling has occurred in a number of batteries some of them not being the oldest. Possibly Covid regulations has meant the reduced weekly recycling has contributed to the problem. Plus, of course, as aforementioned in the previous post the varying chemical compositions could have a contribution. That is why I’ve invested in some battery dischargers.

Thank you for the reply.

Referring to Simon Clarke’s post in October 2021. The Vifly Storesafe discharger specification is:- discharges to 3.85+/-0.08Volts per cell. That is between 3.93v/cell and 3.77v/cell. How does the forum feel about storing Lipos at 3.9v/cell because my Vifly finishes at this; about 60%. How much more detrimental would it be to store the battery at 3.9v/cell (about 60%) rather than 3.85v/cell (about 50%)? There is so much information about this subject on the forum it’s quite overwhelming.

Chris Foss does suggest that construction with PVA gives joints more flexibility. I use Deluxe Speedbond PVA. It contains a solvent for faster drying. It would appear many PVA glues contain fillers. The Speedbond doesn’t have any fillers and appears slightly thinner/runnier which I prefer.

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**LINK**

Mike, I had an unopened bottle of Superphatic that had been in a drawer for some months. The glue had turned a buff colour inside the shoulders of the bottle. I contacted Deluxe and queried this but didn't get a reply. I ordered an item from Phoenix Models and had to email them so I also asked Stan Yeo, at Phoenix, whether he'd ever come across this. (I didn't purchase the Superphatic from Phoenix Models). Always so helpful, Stan emailed me the following: I occasionally use Superphatic but not very often so my bottle lies around for ages and yes it does go brown around the edges. This does not mean it has been exposed to frost as mine has not. Several months ago I did speak to John Bristow the owner and designer of DeLuxe Material products about the 'discolouration' of Superphatic and was told a colouring pigment had been added to the glue to mimic the colour of balsa wood. Whilst some balsa may be that colour but the wood we use is predominantly white and it leaves an ugly stain. My assumption then it is the pigment aging that causes the glue to go brown. I have used the glue since and haven't had any problems.

What happened to FVK. Did they go into liquidation. I can't locate the FVK Bandit or the FVK web site.

Thank you for the information

Can anyone recommend reliable free PDF to DXF software for occasional use.

Yes, Mike, I did get it back - 9 months later. I lost the model in the summer when the trees and bushes were in full leaf. The following spring while the trees were bare I went searching with two young fliers and one of them spotted it in the fork of a bush about 5ft off the floor. The receiver, esc and servos were ok. The motor, I took apart and washed it and sprayed it wth GT85. All are still working. The Taboo’s a lovely plane for “Skysurfing”😁. I built another two (one for my grandson). The mate I fly with has also built one. They are very rarely left at home.

I do cherish the countdown voice. As the Cockpit SX screen is below the neck strap connection point, the screen is obscured by the strap if I lift the Tx up to check the time. I was flying Mike Freeman’s fast moving Taboo (see Mike’s avatar), high up, in a blue sky with a previous voiceless Tx and looked down for the time, looked up and the Taboo had gone, can you believe, so the voice is a godsend to me.

I have found my Dremel's accuracy to be quite poor. It's good for many things but accurate drilling isn't one of them. It appears to be play in the bearings which causes the point of the drill to wander when trying to start a hole; even on centre popped marks or enlarging existing holes. I've looked online and other users have commented about this.