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Redex

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  1. I too have built the Slingsby, nice model and flyer.
  2. Hi Steve, I have the Chris Foss battery plate/tenon method fitted to my Wot4, Jitterbug and Tundra - works well, nice and secure.
  3. Yes your right, it failed on the elevator joiner to balsa joint, while the original glue was the usual white PVA. I have used epoxy on the added strengthening top dowel and bottom rod which now seems much more robust. It made a very odd sound with one elevator half flapping in the wind, we actually thought the motor had failed.
  4. So at last finished by Jitterbug and had just a few flights while the weather here has been kind. Only really two issues in that the elevator joiner broke on one half of the elevator while the other was still attached - landed OK with no structural damage - the cause was probably due to my inexperienced building skills. I have since strenghtend the joiner with 2mm wire and dowel support to each side of the elevator half/joiner. The other characteristic is that it seems to require right rudder on take off, although wheels, rudder, tail wheel all seem to be square/aligned, so perhaps its something to just get used to. For those interested in the power train I am using a Ripmax Quantum II 40, ZTW 70A Sbec, APC 13*6.5 and 4S3700 40C LiPo. appx 60A 850 Watts. The AUW is 2813gms which is fairly close to the original build article in RCM&E. It flies nicely at slow speed too, great model to build.
  5. Hi All, Slightly off topic but I did not want to post in the 'AR620 Problem' as I don't have a problem, but just need some clarification on a telemetry issue. My AR620 Flight Log data works OK and outputs three parameters. F: H: O: The AR620 receiver user guide does not define what these parameters are or how they are to be interpret. However I know what the F: and H: parameters are (from an AR8020T user guide), but I do not know what O: is defined as, or how to use its data. Any help/advice would be gratefully received.
  6. Hi All, Just need a bit of advice with my Jitterbug build from those that have built this model. I have constructed the wing halves but not joined them yet. From the RCME article, it says that the dihedral should be 2 inches. Do I assume that this is for each wing tip, or does it mean 1 inch per wing tip i.e. a total of 2 inches, I am not sure. Also any starting point dimensions for the control surface would be much appreciated as I have finished the fuselage. Many thanks
  7. Thanks for the info and wing advice KC
  8. Can any Jitterbug flyers give me an indication of their control throws - are the decals still available, many thanks
  9. Just adding to this old build thread- I have taken the plunge and took advantage of a discounted Jitterbug kit offered by Sarik Hobbies a while ago now. So I am constructing an electric version of the Jitterbug and this is my fuselage build progress to date. Its taken me a couple of months to get here with a few mistakes on the way, which I guess is a bit slow compared to some more experienced - but the fuselage, is now finished, apart from some Jitterbug decals. I have power tested the drive train which all seems to be OK and so far the AUW of the fuselage only, is 1763 gms. Not really looking forward to wing construction as my other models wings are of the foam/veneer construction - but a different challenge with the Jitterbug. I have not read the posts about the wing anomaly yet, so next job then study the plan.
  10. The FunFly does have a slight dihedal which can just be seen in Pic 29 of the Building Pictures and also W47 in the CNC cut parts pictures. These were all part of the build instructions in my FunFly kit
  11. Maybe a suggestion to RCM&E for the 'E' part of the mag - an explanation of ESC working and/or construction of an ESC.
  12. If not already obtained, you could try Wych Bearings Limited, they stock 5*11*5 bearings.
  13. I have a kit built Acrowot using a 4S4000 30C and a 14*7 APCe, flys really great but just a little underpowered.
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