FlyinBrian

You can use 5 cell (6volt) NiMH batteries without a problem with most RC gear. A lot of modern receivers are happy on two Lipo cells but check the specs of your servos. There are also a lot of "HV" servos now which are happy on two Lipo cells. Regulators when mentioned in connection with RC tend to be dedicated units which will regulate say two Lipo cells to give c6V. There are also stand alone Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC) units which can be used with up to 6 Lipo cells to supply c6V to the RC

I am sure more knowledgeable people than me will answer shortly but I do not think it is a particularly easy thing to do and get good results. It may be worthwhile contacting Morris Mini Motors who does these conversions to various makes of engine.

Wire wool and or sandpaper do actually work fine BUT clean the wire first with meths or acetone otherwise you just rub the wire's protective surface grease into the area you are trying to clean. As well as temperature the iron needs to have a good heat capacity which if you are soldering 8 gauge and above wire does mean a big bit. Also tin the areas being soldered before binding with tinned copper wire. Given a sufficiently capable iron the solder will flow through the joint quickly. If you use any sort of blow torch there is a danger you will take the temper out of the spring steel wire and your U/C will bend easily on a hard arrival.

I actually prefer the Wot4 Foam E to the AW foamy it just handles better and with the cg moved back about a cm can be a bit of a hooligan.

The Veron Robot was my first powered rc model, it was designed for single channel rudder only and I flew it with RCS single ch and a conquest escapement. Power was a Frog 150 (1.5cc) diesel It ended up with three channel propo and a 2.5cc Taifun Zyklon diesel, it was a delight to fly. As suggested reduce rudder throw and check the CG is correct. Don't alter the dihedral unless you fit ailerons - it gives stability.

What servos are they? If digis they usually buzz at the slightest provocation

I am in need of a 1/5 scale Bucker Jungmeister cowl, I thought it would be possible to find something on the web, thingyverse or whatever to print on a 3D printer but a search brings up all kinds of rubbish including Batman masks! Is anyone aware of a downloadable file to allow the printing of such a cowl. Thanks FB

I am just in a heavy dispute with Amazon about getting a refund for a generator (long long long long story going back to early July) suffice to say It is most doubtful that I will buy from that source again. I am currently £350 oo pocket plus wasted oil, time and patience.

I spent quite a bit of time working for CONOCO in Stavanger in the early 90s, Stunning country. I recall flying into Stavanger one night at 11:45 and it was light enough to see around the airport. As an aside I had bought some Duty frees before the flight, the shop had an off on Whisky; buy a bottle and get another half bottle free. I was first off the plane in Stavanger and was pulled by some very bored customs guys who asked me what drink I had - I showed them and as I was only allowed one bottle od spirits duty free they asked me for £28.00 duty on the extra 1/2 bottle! - I forfeited it and promised not to be naughty again?

If it is the TT 120 two stroke with the pump - be warned they can be a pig to set up. Only alter the pump settings AFTER you are sure you know what the original settings. were.

I slide a piece of heat shrink over the rx aerial exit to give some strain relief, I usually use red heat shrink as I have heard that black sleeving contains carbon which can cause issues through partial shielding of the RF signal

I have a T14SG Tx that gives the same warning, it only applies to the 12 ch mode. In 12 ch mode the frame rate is much faster (2x ?) and digitals are needed because they can process the signal to the servos faster. I inadvertently set 12ch for one model that had some analogue servos and the servos went silly but luckily caused no damage.

I ordered several items from Rapid RC - early pm yesterday and they were with me at lunchtime today. This is my first time using Rapid but it wont be my last Good old Royal Mail / Parcel Force deserve a pat on the back too! Thanks guys

Hobby King sell Graphene batteries, I thought it was a brand name of theirs. EDF flyers in our club use them and are very happy.

I have a lot of Hitec Digis and the only issue I have is that the 56xx s are slow coming to centre, also I have a couple - also 56xx where the metal servo arm has very slight play on the splines which I cured by using thin plastic film which made the arms much tighter on the splines. Tip If you find that after assembly of your control runs you have slight play in either the control horn / quickilink or servo arm / quicklink this can be eliminated as follows. Remove quicklinks and dip the pin ends into light oil, wipe off oil with tissue and re-assemble. When all is nicely centred put a tiny drop of medium cyano onto the control horn/pin and leave until set - say 30mins. Turn on radio and move the control quickly from end to end, the cyano bond will give way on the pin leaving a no play connection. !

And everything else, England will need need all the luck they can get against Italy. I'm not a football fan as such but it gives the country a boost when we do well at any sport so - GOOD LUCK Lads

Never has a problem with KLMS but sympathise with the OP's experience. Stock control systems are only as good as the people using them, as the saying goes Rubbish in; Rubbish out!

screwdrivers, instrument No`s 1, 4, 6 and 12 plus 81`s and nippers, diagonal cutting. Me too although I was only a lowly T1 on Subs Apps. A chap in the local market sold ex government tools including those from POT for scrap prices, I used to buy some, exchange them in the stores and whayhay instant almost free tool kit. Club members were Simerly equipped too?

I think Peter C has it right, horses for courses. For typical sports models a four or five cell NiMh battery is fine (check your servo specs before using on five cells) After 4 flights with my 90 Four stroke powered Aeromaster biplane (Usually 12 - 15mins per flight) My charger puts back 400 - 500 MaH into the five cell 2000 mAH Enerloop battery. I use five cells for the increased speed and power I get with the Hitec digital servos in the model. When I have checked the current draw with all servos moving it is 0.5 to 0.6 Amps rising quickly to over an Amp if I restrict the movement of say the rudder. Once every month or so or if a model has not been used for a while I will discharge a NiMH battery to 1 volt per cell to check capacity just to check all is well. As the servos and control surfaces move quicker using five cells it stands to reason that they are using more energy but for slightly less time than with a four cell battery so I would expect that power consumption per flight would be little different. I recently purchased some Hitec High Voltage servos and have tested them with a two cell Lithium Ion battery which like Lipos are 8.4V fully charged. Boy those servos move quick and will put a sizeable dent in your thumb if you try to resist their movement. A bit different to the Skyleader SLC1 servos I used with 4 cell Deacs in 60 powered aerobatic models in the '70s!

I grew up in a mining village, the miners and other NCB workers had a lorry load of coal delivered every couple of weeks as part of their wages. Depending on access to the home it was often dropped at the kerb side to either be shovelled into the coal bunker through a hatch about four feet off the ground or needed to be "barrowed" from the kerb along the garden path to the "coal house" - Hard work but good money was earned around the village on delivery days. Other revenue streams were picking wild blackberries for the local bakery and picking Rosehips which were collected from school by companies who made syrup and stuff from them, me and my mate Terry collected sack fulls, typically 6d a pound for Rosehips and all the scratches and torn clothes you could handle. I used to borrow my Dads Motorbike gauntlets to pull down the wild rose branches, a walking stick was also useful.

You May have trouble getting Solarfilm and Profilm is expensive however Hobby king do very good film at a very good prices - about a third of the price of Profilm. Also You can find rolls of so called "seconds" at shows and online very cheaply.

Geoff, I could not contest what you say, I recall 6 (a bit tight) and 8 BA being used to bolt my Mills .75 and DC Merlin engines into planes back in the 60s then everything seemed to go metric almost overnight. Maybe due to the preponderance of German kits and German & Japanese engines on the market at the time. BTW Model Fixings has almost any thread type of nuts and bolts from about 1mm dia upwards which is handy if you get stuck.

I find the Sharkface, suitably (over)powered flys well at 12 to 16 oz so no need to skimp on covering. I have used Solarfilm and Profilm in the past

I have just bought the book and also downloaded a copy from Amazon I hope its the Woopsie? free version

I go with Geoff on that, I try to ensure all my rods, quick links, nuts & bolts are Metric although I have bought second hand models with 'merican sized fixings its always a pain when something has to be taken apart or repaired. I picked up a 1/3 scale Bucker Jungmeister about 8/9 years ago and it had BA fittings throughout. Fortunately it came with a beautifully made set of box spanners covering 6BA to 0BA plus a couple of open ended spanners as well. I still have the spanners but a sold the model on a while ago.