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Dave Garrett 1

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  1. Exactly the same thing has happened on my credit card today, £0.44 in my case
  2. The same is true for epoxy resins. Hence, the glue & beer fridge in the garage.😂
  3. The thing is pretty damned good at putting dings in the top & bottom of the TE strip, you have just spent ages shaping😂. Agree with marking out & using knife free-hand to cut slot. I also find poking the end of a 6" steel rule (or hack saw blade) into the slot, is a good way to increase the width slightly for thicker hinges. Regards Dave.
  4. Hi Dazza. Many moons ago, I built a 4 channel Super 60 from the Ben Buckle kit. If I remember correctly the only deviation from the plan was to glue on the horizontal stabiliser with epoxy. It was powered with a well used OS 40LA 2-stroke, not the most powerful engine by any means. Like KC mentioned above it did fly very well & was not difficult to fly at all, providing you do not use excessive throttle. The only time I used anything much above half throttle was on take off, if the grass on the patch was a bit long. Incidentally with the 40LA the C of G was spot on. With a 40 4-stroke, you may need a bit of lead in the tail. If you decided to glue on the horizontal stabiliser, it may be prudent to carry out as test balance prior, so you can hide the weight in the back of the fuselage. Best of luck & have fun Dave
  5. Ha HA 45 yrs in the aerospace industry tend to make one think conservatively.😀 Dave
  6. Hi Mike Considering the amount of time & cost involved in building the Petrel, my advice would be, go with what Chris has put on the plan. Don't risk unknowns (3D printing) for such a critical part. Best Regards Dave
  7. Hi Matty. Just an observation. The cative nuts on the back of the fire wall look like they should be knocked in further. The prongs on the back should be fully embedded into the wood. They would be difficult to refit if they fall out when the fuselage is complete. I also add a drop or two of thin cyno to secure. Best Regards Dave
  8. Hi Allan The only time I have experienced rubbery epoxy sets is when using the twin syringe packs. When mixing small amounts typically used by aeromodellers, the twin pack syringes don't seem to reliably eject the correct proporsion of resin & hardener. I swapped to the larger 2 bottle packs (Z epoxy or HK) & use Mk1 eyeball to judge 2 equal size puddles of resin & hardener before mixing. Regards Dave
  9. Thanks lads, I am about to encounter exactly the same issue with my DB Sports & Scale Tiger moth?
  10. I've had exactly the same problem with the Hobbyking transparent film. I found the masking tape method does work eventually, but you have to attack the same corner multiple times. Dave
  11. About time I posted on the new forum. Just finished a SLEC Limbo Dancer in time for the glorious 29th. Nice straight forward kit (apart from messing up the push/pull rudder & elevator several times). Started in January, so a real quick build for me. Powered by a ASP 40.
  12. Posted by john stones 1 Moderator on 31/01/2021 21:50:54: I'm alive n kicking then. What time does the turn come on tonight ? And who do we like from the Younger musicians/bands ? My faith in modern music was restored by Finish symphonic metal band Nightwish. Not that well known in the UK.They are led by the impressive Dutch Amazonian lady Floor Jansen. Brilliant live. Went to see them at Wembley a couple of years ago, expecting to be the oldest rocker In town. Fortunately, I did not look a bit out of place. Here one of my favourites **LINK**
  13. Looks like a Flair Astro Hog to me. I built one about 12 years ago. Regards Dave
  14. Thanks Will try on scrap bit of foam first Dave
  15. Hi Everybody Anybody got any ideas how to apply the decals? The adhesive on the vinyl does not appear to be strong enough to hold them in place. Do you have prep the foam with some sort of primer? Thanks in advance Dave
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