David Ovenden

Frank PM sent

Thanks Dick and Frank for your helpful input. I was wondering whether this HK item might work? **LINK** Any thoughts? Otherwise, Frank's offer looks attractive.

Dickw - thanks for the reply. Yes, I have already found the English instructions and the alternative Graupner interface. Trouble is the Graupner lead is also over £20! Unless there are some fancy electronics in the lead, that's pretty expensive for a USB lead. I already had discovered that the unit should be programmable from the Tx on versions from 2015 onwards. Regrettably, the new sealed in packet unit I bought new this month from a German model shop is pre 2015 manufacture

I have obtained a new in packet Unisens-E telemetry sensor (does rpm/altitude/vario/ voltage& current from one unit) that I want to use with my JR DMSS radio. This is made by SM Modelbau and is marketed by Graupner under the ref number 33644. see **LINK** The unit works with JR DMSS but needs to be set up as it defaults to Grapner HOTT protocol.. Later models from V1.11 onwards can be programmed via the tx. Unfortunately mine is V1.10 so I need to set it up from the PC. This means downloading software and buying a custom USB to comms socket lead. I can buy the genuine SM Modelbau item but this will cost another £20 or so. Anyone know if a cheaper alternative exists, or better still, can tell me how to make one up from an existing USB cable - what wires connect to which pins? Any info or links would be helpful. Thanks .     Edited By David Ovenden on 05/07/2017 12:51:13

Another vote for the Veron Tomtit! A lovely model.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graupner-2768-OS-MAX-FS-95V-with-Silencer-Accessories-/252987502994?hash=item3ae73af192:g:7kAAAOSwCkZZPqZj OS FS95V for only £672. Bargain with the free postage -  NOT! Edited By David Ovenden on 19/06/2017 21:34:34 Edited By David Ovenden on 19/06/2017 21:35:33

True, but having the text in a foreign language you can't read is not good. Currency and language change icons are located on same part of the webpage and I couldn't access either on their mobile site!

For large and/or hard to find sizes of APC i/c props I found it cheaper to buy them from Tower Hobby in the US. Shipping was reasonable, but don't exceed the import duty threshold! Edited By David Ovenden on 08/06/2017 07:56:18

Posted by Andrew Ray on 07/06/2017 06:32:15: Seems ok to me. Touch the menu icon top left of the screen for the drop down menu and the first options are language and currency. Not on my Samsung tablet. Used to work but not any more. I can use my PC but that is not always convenient. The best answer I have come up with is to use Goggle Chrome which allows me to specify the "desktop" website which works fine on my tablet, whereas the mobile site doesn't!

Actually I think it's a sign of old age adding my brain Ben. Yes it's HK and I've posted it in the wrong place. Too late to edit the post now so I will have to live with the shame!

Am I the only one who finds the new HK mobile site hopeless? Can't find any way to change language or currency. It is now almost all white background with little indication of what anything does. Progress?

Well, In my neck of the woods people are moving away from Taranis due to incompatibility issues (continual updates and beta version launches that need fixes) and the tedious need to program everything before it works as you hope. Great if you like computing, but not if you want "plug and play". Obviously others have very different and wholly valid views on Frsky and Taranis. Not trying to put the brand down, just pointing out that there are different experiences. Seems to be a "marmite" situation. You love it or you don't!

Doesn't do JR DMSS either.

See link below for plan. You can check if it matches your model. Looks to me as though your model has fewer wing ribs though, so maybe it isn't a Brooks Bipe. http://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=1647 Edited By David Ovenden on 24/05/2017 22:58:04 Edited By David Ovenden on 24/05/2017 23:09:23

Possibly a Brooks Biplane? I'm no expert on vintage models though!

I am glad this thread didn't just fizzle out. Maths never was my strong point but I always liked Physics. Thanks TWS for taking the time to respond. We may not have the definitive answer, but we (well, me anyway) learnt something from the process.

Peter, Seems a shame if this thread has died. Although I'm no mathematician I thought this was one of the most interesting threads on the forum for a while. The Wright Stuff said "Putting in a (guessed) camera mass of 0.4 kg and just using the default skydiving air-resistance at the very least shows that the 7 second fall could be entirely consistent with the OP's estimate of 100 feet." Given your camera weighs less than 400g (only 150g) I would have thought it would have taken longer to reach the ground. So maybe you 100ft estimate wasn't too far off the mark. Any more thoughts from the maths/physics depth?

Whilst this post is 5 years after the events in question, can I ask if Peter feels that the smaller wheel size was imporant, or whether he feels the lowering of the lead was the key factor? I ask as I am looking at buying a little flown s/h H9 Camel. I am impressed by Peter's commitment to fixing the poor landing characteristics of his Camel and the extent of the transformation once he identified the cause of the problem.Great stuff!

Antex (the soldering iron people) do a "mini iron master" that looks like it might do the job?

I too bought one second hand (and at a very good price) which has proved to be an excellent purchase. I have the electric starter bracket, but use mine all the time as I mostly fly 4 stroke powered planes. I put my model box on the shelf/seat and my tx goes in that. Like Geoff I also use it in the workshop for supporting models while working on them and even to store the fuselage of my PT19. A very well designed and manufactedandl item. Probably too well made to be cheap enough to sell in big numbers though. Shame they are no longer available new.

I have 300 flights with no issues on my Tundra, so they are not all cack. However, sounds like you have a "Friday afternoon" one. If you peel off the tape over the connecter block on the wing underside you can unplug the aileron and flap servos from the wing root connector block. The servos have standard plugs on them though the leads are short. This will allow you to check each servo individually via a separate ext lead direct to your receiver. Like that you should be able to isolate whether if it is a servo, a y lead, or a connector block issue.

I use velcro and a foam block that sits above the battery and fills the gap between it and the hatch cover. This reduces the chance of the lipo detaching from the velcro as it would also have to overcome the hatch magnets to come loose. I also glued the velcro to the bottom of the battery bay with foam glue. 300 flights so far with no problems. Edited By David Ovenden on 02/04/2017 21:10:30

Yes, I had really good service ftom them. They had hard tofind servos in stock and even responded to emails at 10pm! Fast shipping too.

I keep a small notebook for each of my models. I record all flights and note any issues, and update with maintenance when done. I find it v. helpful when I haven't flown a model for a while to check back on any issues noted from the last flight. Also helps keep abreast of when the battery, glow plug, switch etc was last changed. It doesn't take many moments to do I find - once you are in the habit of doing it. Edited By David Ovenden on 01/03/2017 21:25:09

At the risk of confusing the turbine boys, Laser Jet Series or Laser Silver Jet? But not Laser Ink Jet!