David Ovenden
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Posts posted by David Ovenden
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I made these for my Curtiss Condor model from thin litho plate (aluminium) Mostly formed freehand by stretching and moulding over a variety of objects around the workshop.They were glued in place with some shaped blue foam underneath to help keep the shape.
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4 hours ago, kevin b said:
I think you just about got them all David (So have I).
Well Kevin, that's quite a stash of classic Japanese kits you have there!
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Well they did do lot of twin engine models, so quite a few to choose from still. P68 Victor; P38 Lightning; Cessna Citation: Cessna Skymaster; Cessna 310; Beech Baron: B25 Mitchell; C47 Dakota; and the P61 you've already done. Have I missed any?
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9 hours ago, kevin b said:
Time for a break now and to try and get some serious flying in !
The next one is going to be a twin, but not the one I was intending to build !
Cesena Skymaster?
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On the Robart scale wheels with split hubs I have fixed "flats" by inserting foam rubber. Effectively foam "doughnuts" cut from pipe insulation foam.
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3 hours ago, GrumpyGnome said:
Leccy starter for me.......
Me too!
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2 hours ago, John Stainforth said:
It's the kinetic energy of the plane circulating that is being converted to electricity; I don't think a balloon could do that very effectively. Also the plane requires no expensive gas to remain airborne
It's the feasibility of it remaining airborne in all weathers and the extent of maintenance it would need that makes me wonder how practical it is. For sure it works. But how much time, money and man-hours would be needed to keep it aloft. I imagine it would need to have a "crew" available to get it up and down as needed and would the energy it might produce offset that investment?
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Sorry about the duplication. I see Martin K had already spotted this and started a thread.
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Interesting idea to use a large glider as an airborne turbine to produce electricity - but is it really very feasible?
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It's no help to you Andy, but in a bizarre twist of fate, today I found a brand new glowplug washer on the floor. I lost it months ago and after I dropped it and then just couldn't find it. During a general "tidying up" today (when I wasn't looking for it) I found it. Shame I'm in France not round the corner from you. C'est la vie!
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10 hours ago, Ron Gray said:
Not sure if there's enough room but a bracket (triangular plate) from the engine mounting lugs directly onto the silencer?
Danny, I know these are not quite the same as your situation, but here are a couple if photos of how I added stabilising brackets to exhausts. Both are Saito engines and both are linked to the engine or the engine mount
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On 13/07/2022 at 12:52, Keith Billinge said:
I rescued a bit of plasterboard from a skip to build a wing on.
These days I have a flat bit of plywood with some cork tiles stuck to it.
When I dropped my grandaughter off at her gymnastic club (which meets in a local school gymnasium) there was a skip outside as building work was going on. In the skip were some very large sheets of sundela - obviously from old notice boards. I put some of it in the back of the car and removed the old paper staples when I got back. Job's a good 'un!
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Probably little help to you at this moment but I have just measured the washer from a brand new unused OS F plug. O/D 8.3mm, I/D 6.4mm, thickness 0.7mm.
6.4mm is pretty much 1/4". Washers are often made to be an easy sliding fit over a bolt. So a nominal 1/4" washer is likely to be more than 6.4mm I/D.
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21 minutes ago, Don Fry said:
Now, assume, I now have the attention span of a smartphone zombie. Why are we interested in a guard tower?
From watching on his YouTube channel it would appear that saving the tower would allow people to continue to fly rc models locally. Though I may be well be wrong. Also seems to be some "history" to this issue too.
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It looks like the Phil Ramsey kit to my eyes. But I never had one so I may well be wrong!
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Not quite the answer to the original question, but... I had a Flair scout triplane that flew OK on a first generation OS FS40 (not the Surpass) and a Flair Legionaire biplane with a Saito 45 using a 12.5 x 5 prop.
I really don't see why the OS40 surpass wouldn't be OK in your Flair SE5A unless it ends up extremely heavy somehow.
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Not sure if this helps, but I built a 62" span Doublet twin designed by Denis Tapsfield . That was quite adequately powered by 2 HB20 engines. So maybe 2 OS20 engines would be enough for your 60" model?
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1 hour ago, Danny Fenton said:
I have flaps on a slider, and you are right flaps up needs to be quick. You live and learn.
I always have my flaps on a slider, but don't use servo slow. That way you can control the speed of deployment with your finger - as fast or slow as you want or need. Works for me, but probably won't suit everyone.
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22 hours ago, Danny Fenton said:
Well as you all know my Chippy bit the dust, and as I liked it so much I bought another.
Unfortunately my chums at Webbies only had the Spinach and Custard variety.
I decided to follow Ady's route and do a respray.
It has been very interesting as I tried some things that should not have worked but did work very well.
I used Klass Kote straight over the film, with no scotch-brighting, or prep at all.
I still have a few things to do, but is airworthy as is, if I taped the canopy on.....
The story so far can be found on my YouTube channel, Spinach and Custard
Cheers
Danny
I agree that the silver finish looks much better than the camouflaged version. Silver Chipmunks from RAF Manston used to fly over my house all the time when I was a lad. Never saw a camouflaged one though!
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On 03/06/2022 at 18:39, Danny Fenton said:
You are welcome David, but where are the piccys?
Cheers
Danny
Taken on Wednesday after some more successful flights.
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You should try something new and build an EDF. So do the TSR2!
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Firstly, there are notches in the upper bracket that locate over the oleo retaining screws.
Second I will drill the brackets and oleo to take small self tapping screws to fix them.
Or I could just epoxy the brackets to the legs.
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Made up some brackets to secure the u/c doors to the oleo legs. The items supplied on the kit were only suitable for piano wire uc legs.
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Maybe OS use
Japanese Industry Standard.
Looking at a JIS tool next to a regular Phillips screwdriver, most people are hard-pressed to tell the differences, but they are definitely there. Ninety-percent of the time, a regular Phillips will work on a JIS screw; but it’s that other 10% that gets us swearing, then throwing things – those tight screws holding on your carburetor float bowls being particularly devilish once they’re past about two decades of non-removal. That’s when the right tool can make all the difference. The right tool is a JIS screwdriver, which just fits better in a JIS screwhead and is designed to let you apply more torque than a Phillips driver.
I use heat and WD40 to help get "difficult" sews out. And I never use fuel containing castor oil!
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Veron Robot
in Single-Channel R/C
Posted
Slightly misleading to post this in the Single Channel thread - but not completely. Got bored and have built a Veron Robot from plans I downloaded. When I'd printed and patched together all the A4 sheets it looked little distorted in the wing department so I re-drew the wing plan on tracing film to be straight and true. Model is now largely built. It will have an OS15 and three 9g servos for R.E.T. I will use it initially with 3 ch propo but intend to try it on single channel in due course. I have built an S/C transmitter using the info from the recent RCM&E article.
Need to get it all covered and install the engine and radio next. Wonder how good my thumb-on-button technique will be after all these years?