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Alan Cantwell

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  1. please dont conjur something up, do it properly,
  2. is there any chance of finding the missing prop driver and nuts of the four stroke engine?
  3. dope is used to airproof any fabric covering material, on any type of craft covered, from model, to full size, it airproofs the fabric, seals it against the wind, gives the wing incredible strength, and makes it part of the structure, i have had a trawl through the link you gave, and found i actually contributed to them on that forum when i was a member, i suggest you re-read them, if you do, you will find that they are all brownpaper covering FOAM models, not once is there an instance of a built up wing or surface being covered, i dont do silly comments, i am extremely experianced in this game, as quite a few others are, i saw your thread, and alarm bells rang, i thought you had another way of covering with brown paper, and was interested, is that explanation enough for you? Edited By Alan Cantwell on 02/10/2012 21:00:55
  4. did not see the 3rd picture, the engines an irvine, the span of the model will tell you if its a 40, or a 61, the smaller span will be a 40 engine, the bigger span the 61 engine
  5. knowing ebay, you will be able to retire off the proceeds, but be carefull, we have a section here where stuff that is poor gets brought up, but your are masterpieces compared to some that are featured there, can you ID the engine in the ganster??
  6. now thats something i have not seen before on an open structure, talking of which, what was it like? how do you airproof the paper? ot shrink it for that matter
  7. and a customer is found, what would you pay for them then? there is at least 25quid to spend on the fourstroke, and that is before it is ran, the Huge wing crease in the gangster says its needs a new wing, are they worth the hassle, as for value 15 quid for the gsters engine, nothing for the model, 5 for the reciever, 8for the four servos, 15 quid for the 4 stroke in the 2nd model, nothing for the airframe, same for the radio gear as the 1st, SO, that 55quid, at least its a night out
  8. problem with using 3mm rolled thread rods, is you are actually usening 2.5mm rods, for that is the core diameter of the rod, i prefer to screw the ends of steel rod, therefore leaving the middle bits solid, believe me, its easy enough, but if you want them made for you, drop me a PM,
  9. fist is an early aerobatic model, either a gangster 52, or 62, the numbers are the wingspan, cant make the engine out, but the model is in very poor state, and if the radio is 35mhz, its practically worthless, 2nd one looks like a vintage style model, but again, is in very pooe condition, engine, which looks very well used, is missing about 25quids wirth of parts, the propdriver, and the prop locknuts and washer, sorry, but the whole thing to me is landfill,
  10. i think you have the wrong idea, any club i have been in has actively encouraged guests, but do NOT let them have access to the field without a member being present, and them yes, only three times, that bit is in every clubs rules i have been involved with     Bury will also go the extra mile, and lend a guest the club trainer (under buddy box )   and let them have a fly,  with this,  the flyer is covered by the buddy box holders insurance,   Edited By Alan Cantwell on 02/10/2012 17:59:28
  11. its very important that you have a good stiff link from the elevators to the servo, can you not put the servos at the back end, and use short 3mm rod? rudder should always be closed loop, tailwheel fixed, or linked to the inner holes of the rudder servo, going to 2 stiff springs on the tailwheel to act as a servo saver, the rudder takes the most hammer, and a good, powerfull servo should be used, peferably 2 linked to each other, we flew 40% aerobatic models with DA150s in, the longest link to a servo was on the ailerons, and these where only 3inch, ball links where rocket city, 3mm links where kavan, and kavan only, i dont like pushrods in a powefull aerobatic model simply because a substantial one, becomes a heavy one, and during violent manouveres, this weight multiplies, i hope this helps, we flew quite a lot of powerfull models ike this, there are several tricks to get good results,
  12. the travel air, cheap as chips, and it flys well, whats electric??? Edited By Alan Cantwell on 02/10/2012 17:52:27
  13. i would change the wing to a thick clark Y, then drop the angle of attack, so it didnt climb when power came on a poster on this thread described how his vintage models tried to loop when power was put on, this is because of the design of the things, and they where NOT designed to be steered around with radio control to fly them totally succesfully with radio, they would need zero tailplane angle, and a modest amount of engine downthrust, changed to a clark Ysection, which is still a lifting section, and 1-2-degrees of incidence on the wing, the super 60 was a redesign of the junior 60, and this is exacty what they did, but i mut admit, i too enjoy putt putting around with a true vintage model, left the way they are, and the foibles just accepted, i also feel that this type of model is far FAR from a succesfull trainer, they set no challenge, and teach nothing, the super 60 with ailerons is much better for this, these are, of course, just my opinions, i dont want to upset the tradition of vintage flying, i like them meself by the way Patmac.NICE junior 60 there, the best yet now then, fully symetrical, ailerons, flat wing, piped 40,
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