Phil Green

Every Vic Smeed 'Tomboy' I've ever seen has unequal washout caused by the trailing edge curling up, so do my various Impalas, despite thisi they all fly well 😊

Good points Brian, I think split articles do discourage a spontaneous build as the burst of enthusiasm has passed by the following month. On content, I suppose they can only print what they have, and if no-one is submitting articles then they will struggle to fill the mag. Whilst they do very well in reflecting broad and current interests, unfortunately that means foamies as that is what aeromodelling has become for most. For the rest (all minus most), this is where the interesting stuff is happening, experiences we dont get to hear about, and I'd encourage readers to please write-up your project, take some photos and have a try at an article, dont worry about grammar or getting everything spot on, RCM&E have their own Wombles to tidy up your work 🙂 Personally I would love RCM&E to return to the "&E" days but there is now so little interest, so few contributions, that it cant happen. Times change and any tangent from the majority interest is a risk they cant afford to take. It cant be easy & I'm grateful to the RCM&E staff for keeping a quality mag going in 2025!

The ultimate would have to be the Taurus I think! There are intermediate reed models too such as the Smog Hog and Tauri, also the Keil Kraft Fleetwing & Student. Though I've mostly been a sloper since I was a kid 🎂

Sorry, the propo encoders do but theres no timer on the Reeduino.... but I'll put it on the list 🙂 I'm really pleased to hear that you're enjoying this time-warp back to the reeds days!

https://www.barrowuponsoarheritage.org.uk/articles/personalities/bygone-barrow-notables-luminaries/johnny-johnson-1915-2001.html

These 8 steps will always resolve a mix issue: 1) Ail & elev channels 'normal' 2) Aileron channel reversed 3) Elev channel reversed 4) both Ail & Elev reversed if none of these give the correct result, swap the two servo plugs in the receiver and repeat 1-4 Work logically through the sequence and you'd have to be unlucky to need all 8 steps 😄 (to be clear, from your description it sounds like your controls are transposed, rather than reversed)

All good stuff but just to add that the NiMh trick is ok as long as you're constantly monitoring the cell voltage, if you're distracted or worse still completely forget (as I'm very prone to doing...) then it becomes an unsafe practice. Much safer to set a bench PSU to 4.2v (or just below) with the current limit set appropriately for the cell, then 'recover' the cells one at a time via the balance plug. Just my Humbrol™ opinion.... 🙂

John, your circled items above indicate separate ailerons and a rudder/elevator mix to the V-tail. Basil's model has no ailerons, so the V-tail mix inputs should be aileron & elevator, not rudder & elevator. The 'elevon' mix to the left of your circle gives the correct mix 🙂

A 'Elevon' mix will be aileron & elevator

If your memory is anything like mine I'd write the purchase date on the new ones so that long after you've forgotten, you know how old they are 🥴

One thing to bear in mind if you have quick-blow fused feed to your bulbs, is that for a brief instant on connection they take much more than their rated current, their DC resistance is much lower cold than when white-hot 😉

Yep 500s here too

....bearing in mind that on a rudder/elevator setup, ie without ailerons, you'd normally use the aileron channel for the rudder function of the V tail

Blown car headlamp bulbs always have one good filament, dont throw them away just cos your 'dip' has gone!

Here you go: https://mode-zero.uk/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1008 Be aware that there are several variations of the RF-Nano, we recommend the "Keywish" one. Otherwise a separate NRF24L01 and Pro-mini or Nano works exactly the same. I should add that within weeks of publishing, Martins design was ripped off by Lantian, a Chinese manufacturer - if you can find one, their complete unit is probably cheaper than the parts, time & effort: https://www.himodel.com/m/building_tools/LANTIAN_Portable_High_Precision_2.4G_Spectrum_Analyzer_OLED_Display.html Lantian didnt even credit Martin, all they did was to change the splash screen from 'Ceptimus' to 'Lantian'. This is really bad etiquette. HK did the same with my dual-receiver adapter 😐 Cheers Phil

Forgot to say, the value isnt at all critical, 1k to 10k ish, its just that I2C is open collector and the pull-ups return the inactive sda & sck signals to their rest state (logic high). Its so the I2C lines can be driven by multiple devices.

Seems I was fibbing (in one case) - I just dismantled an older one and it seems I did add 4k7 pullups to this one after all. But generally I dont. Honest! 😀

Odd. I've no answers Martin, just thinking aloud, the only components that see 9v are the decoupling cap and the 5v regulator, the 328P part sees 5v regardless of input voltage and the NRF part sees 3.3v again regardless of input voltage. So the only components even aware of the battery voltage are the decoupling cap and the 5v regulator. I dunno, you have a known-good RF-Nano and a brand-new display - the only two components. So all that remains is the wiring and the battery. It runs for a while then stops? any warm components when it stops? Wires too long? since thats solid core wire not stranded could there be a break somewhere mid-run? How does it do on a 2S lipo? or any battery other than the Procell? Baffled! 😆

I dont, mine have all been just the simple 4 wires, gnd, vcc, A4 & A5, with PP3 power via Vin and the 'other' gnd... which 'spare' pin? Otherwise as Mike says it has to be a power problem - maybe try some extra decoupling caps on the 5v? The EBL lithium PP3s dont generally have a boost reg, they're straight 2S, I use them a lot 🙂

Here's one that lives in a Tic-Tac box, and another lash-up, both use the same RF-Nano as I sent... 🙂

Hi Martin, this is most strange, loads of these have been built, I've done maybe 20 myself... Trying to recreate your problem I've lashed-up four over the last few days without problems, powered either from USB or via a 9.6v transmitter battery I had handy. My cased ones have used mix of Duracell & Zinc PP3s, 2s Lipos, 2s vape-cells... None of mine (and none I'm aware of that others have made) have needed the I2C pull-ups, they shouldnt be necessary as the display has its own. The suggestion was just me clutching at straws. So yours is playing up using the RF-Nano I sent and a brand new display? Presumably you've tried different batteries? Heres one of mine, they're all very similar:

Complete printing numpty three weeks into a Creality K1 here, with a question for the experts please 🙂 The original support wheels on the lower tray of my dishwasher have worn to the point the tray catches on the whirly thing below. All I have is Creality Hyper PLA and the new wheels solved the problem but as I half expected, they melted in a 60° wash. So the question is, would ABS survive? If not, what other options might? Ta v much 🙂 Phil dishwasher_wheel.stl

Could you edit the first post of this new thread to credit Martin Round ("Ceptimus") for the original design please Martin (two Martins here!) Its quite an old project, Martins original used a separate NRF module with a nano or promini, the 'easy' option uses an RF-Nano, either works identically. The display used is a 1.3" OLED available cheaply from ebay/Ali/Banggood which must be an I2C (aka IIC), these have 4 connection pins but be aware that some manufacturers arrange the four pins in a different order. Some are SPI with 7 pins - these are not the ones. Some are both which is too awkward to explain here, just buy the I2C display 🙂 Original: https://mode-zero.uk/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17&p=18#p18 RF-Nano: https://mode-zero.uk/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1008 If you're mounting this tiny display with four (relatively) hulking screws be aware that its a fragile glass plate over the LED substrate, if you tighten down four screws that aren't absolutely perfectly level, the display will very likely twist and separate. I generally mount mine with a dab of POR in each corner instead of screws.

Baffled as to how that could give the fault you described Martin - working only over a specific input voltage range? Normally of course the display and the 328P would only ever see 5v regardless of the input voltage 😀 Anywho, pending a parcel from Aliexpress, I have just one display left, its tested & working fine, I'll send it tomorrow Martin. I almost put it in there wth the RFnano anyway... .

As you suspect Martin I think the soft pouch variants need almost the same caution as Lipos - the metal cased A123s are the bulletproof ones. It seems not well known that you can also get genuine A123s in 18650 size as well as the 'standard' 26650 cell. My cells (hundreds!) were taken from Dewalt drill packs in 2007 (18 years!) and have been thoroughly abused in EV projects, and though I've lost a few due to over-discharging (my fault), most still perform well. I've never had a soft-pouch LiFePo4 so no experience of those 😉 Would 2x 18650 cells fit Martin?