Ian Jones
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Posts posted by Ian Jones
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I've said, " yes, fewer events going forward" because that's nearest to my thoughts. "Going forward" seems rather long term to me. Really though, my own answer is no events until I feel safe. For all I know that could be later on in 2021, which isn't so far off. Just my way of thinking perhaps.
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Nice to see you back, I should follow suit really as I've been a bit quiet of late.
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Varifocals for me, they take some getting used to but once you've "run them in", they are great. Consider options too, like anti glare, and light reactive lenses (instead having seperate sunglasses). They always seem expensive when you get the quote but then when you u consider the the cost of seperate sunglasses, and reading glasses and the value of the convenience it's not so bad.
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Posted by David Ashby - Moderator on 09/01/2021 19:07:05:
Found this fella in the garden a few weeks ago.
Hmm, I don't think that's a palmate newt David, so that makes it a smooth (AKA common) newt.
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Posted by john stones 1 Moderator on 30/12/2020 19:29:10:Posted by Ian Jones on 30/12/2020 19:27:06:
Not a recent photo but lots of snow.
A66 near Whitbarrow looking towards Great Mell Fell.
Good one.
Thank you
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Not a recent photo but lots of snow.
A66 near Whitbarrow looking towards Great Mell Fell.
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It looks like a simple part to print, so as previously mentioned it's just a question of scale.
With regard to the title of this thread, the simple answer is yes, Thingiverse is wonderful, there's a huge range of files available for 3D printing. I would add the reservations mentioned by others regarding specific printers, scale and quality of some designers, however most of those matters exist wherever you look. The problem comes with not working and printing the files yourself as this means you do not have the opportunity to adjust or redesign prints. So if you have considered getting a 3D printer then perhaps the time has arrived!
It might worth reminding forumites that we have our own user group on Thingiverse so that we can share prints
Please feel free to add your own designs, it's quite straightforward. All you have to do is register with Thingiverse and you are then able to add your designs (STL files plus supporting photos if you wish) and make them available to the group in the "Tell Us More" part of the design's information.
So here it is: RC flying models
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Posted by MaL on 17/02/2019 10:34:35:
What benefit would a titanium alloy nozzle give over a plain and simple one?..... what are normal ones made from? nickel plated steel?
Old post but worth answering.
In general use for printing plastics, no benefit at all. However, there's lots of filaments that can wear a nozzle down pretty quick, in particular metallised ones and carbon fibre.
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Posted by Anthony Scott 2 on 29/08/2020 15:28:01:
These are very good & very good value.
Those hobbyking transmitter cases are good, I have several. Inside I also use a couple of 3D printed stick protectors:
Although these primarily protect the Tx sticks, the provide overall rigidity so also give some protection for switches. If you are in touch with someone that can print them for you then they may be worth considering.
Edited By Ian Jones on 29/08/2020 16:38:30
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Calibrating the dual nozzles for x & Y axis
Anyone been having trouble calibration the dual nozzles, well I have. Reliable sources on the internet are hard to find, especially specific to this printer and the instructions that came with the printer don't help much either. However today, I beleive I have cracked it and so I offer my solution to those equally lost.
- switch on the printer and go to the settings menu
- go to item 10 in the setting menu "Offeset and Calibration"
- Ignore the home offests for X and Y
- Observe the Dual Extruder Offsets, both X & Y will be on 7, this is the default setting and will always be the case when you visit this setting.
- Select to print the "Print Calibration sample"
- When it is finished look at the printout from the front of the machine. The horizontal lines are the Y axis and the vertical lines are the X axis. If points 7 on both axis are correctly lined up, then there's nothing to be done.
- Which horizontal lines lines are most closely aligned with each other? If for example it's 8 then enter 8 into the Y axis offset.
- Repeat the procedure for 7 above with the x axis.
- exit settings
- Switch the machine off for a few moments.
- switch the machine back on and print the calibration sample again, if points 7 on both axis are correctly lined up, then it's job done.
- The Y axis on mine was so far out that I had to repeat this process 3 times, so if that's necessary then don't be alarmed.
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The second extruder that I am not even using and has it's temperature set to 0 in the slicer (Makerbot and Simplify 3D), heats up to the same temperature as as the extruder in use. It also tries to feed filament in exactly the same way as the extruder that is in use, when it should not be feeding any filament at all.
I don't honsestly know if this has happened from new or not but I don't seem to be able to stop it!
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Posted by Ian Jones on 14/07/2020 19:24:32:
Last year I converted my 16 years old Tutor 40 to VTOL for it's final and unplanned landing
. That shortened it considerably and what could be saved was consigned to the spares store.I always like to have a trainer to play with so sought a replacement, which courtesy of a seller on Ebay I now have. Though it's hardly been flown it did have it's noseleg "locked off", which is an absolute pain. The problem with 3D printing the required steering arm and mount was that it would need to be highly durable so the usual PLA was not even worth considering at all. ABS would be better but nylon better still.
Well I bit the bullet, did some research and to my surprise my first nylon printed failed due to a filament snag and then success came at the second attempt. This is going to be a game changer for my future modelling needs.
So here is the completed assembly:
The was also an issue with the push rods, one of them rattling against it's nearest former so decided to convert to snakes (as I did with the original). This time using ABS I made some push rod/snake exit covers.
STL and Simplify 3D factory files are now included in our group at **LINK**
Steering assembly **LINK**
Exit covers **LINK**
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I've trained newbies on both and also the Irvine Tutor 40 (I & II). By far the best was the Tutor 40 but a very, very close 2nd was the Boomerang. Tutor 40 is no longer available so it's the Boomerang, which incidently I used for my B test.
With the CG set correctly (that is, not nose heavy) it has a plenty long enough glide for landing and as has already been stated is better suited to windy conditions.
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Last year I converted my 16 years old Tutor 40 to VTOL for it's final and unplanned landing
. That shortened it considerably and what could be saved was consigned to the spares store.I always like to have a trainer to play with so sought a replacement, which courtesy of a seller on Ebay I now have. Though it's hardly been flown it did have it's noseleg "locked off", which is an absolute pain. The problem with 3D printing the required steering arm and mount was that it would need to be highly durable so the usual PLA was not even worth considering at all. ABS would be better but nylon better still.
Well I bit the bullet, did some research and to my surprise my first nylon printed failed due to a filament snag and then success came at the second attempt. This is going to be a game changer for my future modelling needs.
So here is the completed assembly:
The was also an issue with the push rods, one of them rattling against it's nearest former so decided to convert to snakes (as I did with the original). This time using ABS I made some push rod/snake exit covers.
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I still haven't finished my slope version.
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Yep, me too, same Prusa design.
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Thanks for the info Kev.
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I think you did Kevin but it's nice to be reminded how versitile 3D printing is. Those nose cones - could be quite heavy, what did you use and how did you print the sides?
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This should do:
The previous one would do a text copy and paste but for some reason the link itself had the ":" removed, anyway, unless it get's removed again then this one should work.
Update
This one does work
Edited By Ian Jones on 01/02/2020 14:55:14
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A while back it was said that we should somewhere to share our prints. So indeed a group was created at the suggestion forumites as place where designs related to radio controlled flying models can be stored and shared. There's currently 241 members!
Have a look at https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/rc-flying-models/things
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You have got to finish it and show it flying... just for me as I sob quietly
.Due to a mains waterburst, on the path outside my home, water flooded into my garage. The only fatality was my Sportster due to water getting into the wing roots. No wings, no fly!
Waiting for United Utilities to pay out but no amount of money is going to make good on my loss.
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Somehow I have been unaware of this thread!
Mine was originally fitted with Ripmax SD200s. Horrible things which have been popular over the years but in my experience have not lasted long - end up jittering when re-centering.
I replaced them 7 years ago with Hitec HS81s and these have been perfect, even in 30mph wind, which for this model is quite a challenge. If I was doing it today I would consider MGs but I don't think they are really necessary.
My sportster has been in regular use all these years, unfortunately a recent water main burst which flooded my garage has soaked the wing roots and alas it's not safe to fly.
FB3 have you completed and flow yours?
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Posted by Martyn K on 25/05/2012 15:26:17:
Here is ours - I suspect the design is attributable to Ian Jones of T shirt fame
A Cheshire Cat of course (South Cheshire RC Society)
regards
Martyn
Thanks for the credit Martyn, actually I don't recall the exact origin of the design, it was passed on to me (by a then committee member) to be used as a logo on T shirts etc. Unfortunately it was a very blurred and noisy jpeg which is where I did in fact put in a great deal of work cleaning up the main logo area and adding in new lettering for the club name, it took ages but it worth it.
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I came in to this hobby relatively recently but by co-incidence with this op I have been thinking how straightforward it was around 2005. A multitude of models to choose from (and see at my LMS), engine prices were the lowest they have ever been and restrictive legistlation was nothing more than a few paragraphs of the ANO.
At that time I could also see a clear path forward to progress to whatever type or size of model I wished to go for, with just a few extra bits of legislation relating to large models the restrictions were few.
So it was a great time for the hobby but I will also remember that it was a great time for me too because in addition the aforementioned I was doing a great deal of model flying and loving it.
The demise of so LMSs, ever burdoning legislation, less choice of traditional models, less choice of engines that are becoming more expensive, has meant that for me a lot of the pleasure was diminishing by 2015. (Now I even question whether or not it's worth carrying on).
So despite my decade not starting and ending with a zero I would go for 2005 - 2015.
Edited By Ian Jones on 13/02/2019 17:29:39
NEW POLL - has the covid pandemic deterred you from attending shows and events in 2021?
in Model Flying Polls
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Hmm, s'pose I've just opened up a old new poll
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Having said that, the future looks somewhat clearer now and I wonder how much that affects everyone's responses?