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Ian Jones

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Everything posted by Ian Jones

  1. Currently I use: Futaba SkySport6 (simulator only) Futaba 6EXA (simulator only) Hitec Eclipse 7 (35Mhz and 2.4Ghz) Futaba T8UAP (Hitec 2.4Ghz module) Hitec Eclipse 7 Pro The Hitec Tx's are my primary radios, the Futaba T8UAP I mainly use for sloping.
  2. My Own: Futaba SkySport6 Sanwa, A brief 2nd hand encounter, can't remember the model Futaba 6EXA Hitec Eclipse 7 (35Mhz and 2.4Ghz) Futaba T8UAP (Hitec 2.4Ghz module) Futaba T7UAP (Hitec 2.4Ghz module) Hitec Eclipse 7 Pro For training purposes all the above plus: Spektrum (various) Sanwa (various) Futaba T6J Futaba FF6 Futaba Challenger JR (can't remember the model) Hitec Aurora I don't do much training these days but of my own Tx's, these are still in use: Futaba SkySport6 (simulator only) Futaba 6EXA (simulator only) Hitec Eclipse 7 (35Mhz and 2.4Ghz) Futaba T8UAP (Hitec 2.4Ghz module) Hitec Eclipse 7 Pro
  3. Actually it's potentially quite important. How many people use the same password for two or more websites and how many of those websites contain personal or banking information? So, someone grabs your email address and password from here and they can then use the same credentials to try and get into your more sensitive websites. Hopefully your personal websites have better security measures than just email & password login, then again some websites are a bit behind the times. The risk is there and that is why nearly all websites that require a log-in now use SSL (Secure Sockets Layer) which is visible to users as the previously mentioned https protocol.
  4. Hi Levanter, Polythene? tell you the truth, I don't know. Big sort out in my garage today, might be able to get in there and get some work done soon, so hopefully will be making some progress. Edited By Ian Jones on 05/04/2018 18:06:22
  5. I'm looking into this, don't have a final answer at the moment but I can say definitely do not use PLA. I've got a photo somewhere of some testing I did by leaving the filament in some fuel for a few weeks. Nylon is looking quite promising.
  6. Wow, Gunter, that is impressive
  7. Posted by Robin Etherton on 07/03/2018 20:16:24: Ian Only just saw your post. The easymax001 is now finished. The thin wall printing is easier than it looks and is just a matter of fiddling with the settings. 3dlabprint instructions are very helpfull. See my blog for details. Finished model below. Thanks Robin, seen the blog, looking foward to hearing about the maiden.
  8. Well done Cliff - I'll try and get my friend to try the undercariage mod.
  9. Pleased to see it all coming together now Ron. Good looking model too. At least the bulkhead won't depart the airframe . Hope you are going to post a video when you have it flying.
  10. So just to be clear, the invasion stripes are different coloured PLA? Looks brilliant.
  11. Posted by Tony Bennett on 18/02/2018 16:59:39: i mix printing with depron in my builds. my aerobat has a 3d printed front section including battery box, motor mount and u/c mount with a depron outer skin. The wellesley has some thin 3d printed formers to maximise internal space for cockpit detail. Tony B Mixed builds seem a popular way of making up for missing detail, how did you find the weight worked out with the printed formers? I've got some catching up to do! Nice work everyone .
  12. V2, the Canadian Version? Looks like it's addressed some of the issues of the original version (the one I have) so although I have been flying it for some years I don't think I can help.
  13. Hi Colin, Found where I'd seen something silimar before, using Microsoft 3D Builder (if you have Windows 10 then you have this). I'd scanned a pencil drawing of a rib, then cleaned it up a bit and saved it as a jpg. I then imported it into 3D Builder and was presented with a solid block instead of of a rib. Note two settings in particular here, Method: Stamp and Inverse:Off Inverse seemed a logical enough change and worked, well sort of. Familiar?   Next then I changed the Method, trying all those available until I came to this one, called Contour. An interesting thing to notice here is that the hieght of the block is subsantially less. Begs the question of what if I set the Inverse:On?   Well here's the answer:   I apprecaite you are you using different software but perhaps there's a pointer there somewhere?   Edited By Ian Jones on 18/02/2018 14:46:16 Edited By Ian Jones on 18/02/2018 14:47:17
  14. Colin, I've seen something like this before, different software but might help perhaps. I'll need to create and upload some images to explain, so I'll come back soon and do that, unless you have already sorted it.
  15. Posted by Peter Birdman on 16/11/2017 06:32:32: Hi guys, i also have the malyan M180 + Sd3. Just had to install a new mainboard. Has somebody succeeded in changing the steps /mm on the M180 side or do you all adjust this in Sd3? Thx Peter Can't say that I've needed to look into steps/mm though as Tom says this is in the gpx file which you can edit if need be. Ian
  16. That look great Tony. Robin, one solution I am looking into is mixing 3D printing with traditional building. Can't report much at the moment . Health problems have slowed down all of my activities, including progressing with 3D printing, hopefully that all going to improve now and I'llbe able to update when I've got some positive results. I would very interested in how you go on with the fully skinned printing as that is another (delayed) project I am working on.
  17. What filament have you used Itisme and why did you make that particular choice? I see you used PLA for Kaydet, doe sthat apply to the others too? I'm very interested in trying appreciate the pros & cons of various materials availble. Edited By Ian Jones on 18/02/2018 13:42:43
  18. Good points Nev. Getting to grips with a cheaper model can be a valuable step towards getting what is wanted at a later date. That's another thing if a current printer satisfies what is wanted then future changes in the technology might not be too important.
  19. I can think of a good number of models I have that I enjoy flying immensely and would never want to be parted from but it was still an easy job to answer the question asked. Why? Well this model: Is only my third ever model, first flew in 2005, has flown many, many hours since, year after year, last flew it in autumn 2017 (will no doubt fly again soon), only repair it has ever had has been to replace the undercarriage (see here), although not true scale it looks the part, requires full house control inputs for slow turns and to look right anyway, which keeps flying it interesting, has a reasonable amount of aerobatic ability, engine (SC FS52) hardly ever misses a beat, sounds great and is a good match, I just enjoy it so much, fits in my car fully assembled (just), so here it is: A Flair Se5a? Nope (Alex Whittaker take note!). It's a Ripmax Se5a with a few extra bits added (rocker covers, exhaust pipes, leather cockpit surround, identification ribbons). Only down side is the shiny covering, though to be fair late and post was versions were polished. Just love it.
  20. This sort of thing is limited to ARTF's is it? Has no one has ever built a model themselves and only found out afterwards that it has weaknesses? The P40 certainly shouldn't have come apart as it did and it's an issue worth raising but this thread is at risk of knocking all ARTF's generally and that just isn't a balanced discussion.
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