Steve_Wright

Been a bit slack with this project, must get it completed in October. All the bits n bobs have now arrived, no excuses apart from the telling off I will get for taking over the kitchen table for a week or so..

Any more into on this? It would make sense also to have both ESC bec feeds going into the receiver, but there must be a reason why you disconnect 2 (school electronics are failling me)the feed in via a Y lead is in parallel sso no increase in voltage (?)

Order of motors, ESC's, servos and servo leads placed today, a week or so of waiting until more progress. May paint the oleo's white as per the real thing, they come in silver out of the box. Also spotted some variances in the German planes, some have a solid rear shell, some have glass, some have the sponsons, some dont.

So building up my Bronco which has twin batteries feeding twin ECS's. As per the instructions the receiver and servos will be fed from the BEC from 1 ECS by removing the red lead from one of the ECS leads before it goes into the Y harnes. However running 8 servos and 3 electrical retracts off one battery seems a bit wrong. Can I take the power feed from the disconnected ESC and use it to power just the electric retracts and some LED marker lights I have planned for the model? If so is it a case of using the power feed from the ESC to the retracts (disconnecting the power feed going into the receiver) or do I need to do something with the negative lead too?

Black Horse are still making stuff, just seem to be for other people. They made the OV10 Bronco I just got that is distributed/boxed as via Pichler.

Thinking of going with a pair of 4250/06 800KV Tornado Thumper V3's motor wise now, lighter than the G46 and more watts/kV, will just have to play around with the prop sizes. Digging around in the box I seem to have a few 13, 14 & 15" props of various pitches so will have a play.

Sorted on the watt meter front, I am a bit worried when I stick the figures into ecalc for the g46 to get a sensible pitch speed I am getting a bit high on amps for the motor

Tried trowing in some numbers to some of the online calculators and they are throwing errors/confusing the hell out of me so throwing this out to the ones in the know. My Pichler Bronco twin has the following specs The motor they list seems down on power according to the online calculators (they only list their own motor rather than requirements) I am new to electric stuff and need assistance on sizing the motors, will be using 5000ah 4s packs (1 per motor). interested in STOL rather than outright speed. With the above motor the manual state a 13x6.5 prop, while some googling throws up a 12x8" prop being used with an unknown motor and another a 16x7 Any suggestions on motors and a start point for a prop? I was initially going to get a pair of Turnigy G46's but they seem a bit lardy at 300g compared to the above... cheers

Seems well packed up with no rattle / transport damage Cockpit detail, thinking I will mount a camera somewhere in here for some recording / FPV

Delivery day!

So just come back into stock pitchler and SMC dropped me an email to say they have one in. Trigger pulled, updates when the big box arrives!

Just to close this of, bought a class 4 SD card off amazon, worked fine. Some googling seems to point to earlier gen SD cards being better for them. All up to date now ?

Its got its nose on now, think I am going to have to put the rear air vent in now, not kean on the instuctions way of doing it which is basically cut a square hole in the fim in the base of the fuz under the star. Will see if I can glue in a balsa plate so that the coering has some support around the hole. I suppose I could build a scale-ish radiator outlet and glue that on.....will have a think.

scuffed all mating surfaces with some emery and managed to get enough friction to get everything tight ?

Actually, see what you mean now, will go and try.

its the adaptor spinning on the motor shaft, its one of those wedge adaptors. Wondering if roughing the shaft slightly would help?

So the prop adaptors that clamp up with the prop nut being tightened, how to you do them up what you cannot hold the motor body to stop the prop adaptor spinning on the motor shaft? The cowl on my P-51 doesn't give you access to hold the motor at all. Ta

Well got 2 8min flights in today with no dramas, looks great in the air, need to get those retracts sorted (will need to roll my strip though) Horses need to clear my flying patch a bit more, will need to mow it otherwise! I need to have a tweak on the rates, elevator doesn't need it, just a touch of expo, ailerons need it, on full rates it is twitchy. I am currently marking out my strip with electric tape to keep the nags away when flying, need to remember to add a bit more space for the next flight, it was like trying to land on a carrier LOL too used to flying foamys. Time to fit the cowel up i think.

have a 2 heat setting gun, on the lower temp it caused no issues. I was worried it would start setting before I had the glue on the canopy but is lasted okay and seems to have stuck well.

Just finished setting the throws and getting the DR & Expo setup for some (hopefully) docile stuff along side hooligan settings, balances up spot on with a Turnigy 4s 5000 pack in it minus the cowel. Not being very brave and leaving the cowel off for its maiden, my field is not the smoothest, but it will be on after a couple of flights. Forcast 10mph winds and no rain tomorrow, 3mph and 40% chance of rain Saturday, will check in the morning to see if a lunchtime fight is on.

ESC programmed, lid stuck on. On a 11x7 it is pulling 30amps and 300Watts at max power, shouldn't see any issues with that on a 60amp ESC.

Giving my hot glue a go on my current one, stays flexible, will see how it goes

Looks a bit better now the U/C is on the right way around LOL Looked odd in the photo.

Control horns & speed controller to configure, then it is just cowel and canopy to fit

Thanks, will dig about for an SD card first.