Peter Garsden

I didn't photograph the attachment of the aileron linkage. I am going to use two small 9 gram servos in the wing for ailerons rather than one big servo as I want to dial in spoilerons and provide for thermal trim if necessary. The tube that takes the linkage is sunk into the trailing edge. I made the groove with this Permagrit Needle File which is worth its weight in gold. I used some vaseline and was very careful not to put too much resin on the joint. I also made sure that I bent over the linkage AFTER inserting the tube. One also has to make sure you have a right and left hand linkage. Make sure you rough up the plastic tube before gluing to provide purchase. This shows the left hand wing, the aileron having been bevelled, grooved for the mylar hinges (also roughed up before attaching so as to provide purchase for the hinge glue when it is used - though do not glue yet - await covering and paint later.

Now the process of sanding down and planing the leading and trailing edges as well as the tip blocks. I always used the tried and tested method invented by Andy Blackburn whereby masking tape is place on the edge to be planed. When you are getting close to the mark the masking tape rips rather than taking chunks out of the veneer. You then finish off with a sanding bar. Mine was invented by Chris Williams and is a long piece of 15 inch x 2 inch wide scrap 1/4 inch balsa with 80 grit taped on one side and 120 grit on the other. Brilliant for this job as you can reach right over the wing in one sweep.

First easy step is to glue on the precut pre formed leading and trailing edges. This time I used Frog Tape which sticks so much better if more expensive. Used waterproof Titebond. Cheaper than modelling aliphatic I would say. Time for a snooze. You have to be careful to put the correct strip the right way up on the right edge

I wasn't sure how old the kit was but everything looks in tip top condition and almost new. I ironed the plan flat and and am looking forward to kicking off The veneer on the wings looks top quality. First job is to attach the leading and trailing edges, which come already preformed in section - luxury

You will be only too familiar with the Swap Meet scenario of "I won't bring any cash because I don't need any more models, and I definitely won't buy anything today." I went to last year's Phoenix Model Aircraft Club swapmeet and saw an untouched kit of a ME109 Funfighter and just had to have it. I had my phone with me so paid the chap using BACS there and then. He wanted £60 which was a reasonable price so I didn't haggle. It sat in the queue and has just come to the top of the pile. This year I booked a table and sold me A4 Skyhawk which has had a lot of air time, thus making way for it. I have a Spitfire which flies so well - fast and furious. This kit is the IC version but I will convert it to a PSS glider. I am not going to follow the conventional colour scheme and will choose something different. I fancy the Swiss Airforce variant

Sorry not updated the flying of this pocket rocket, which took place a couple of weeks ago up at Elkstone, the Easterly Slope used by Leek and Moorland Model Gliding Association. I had previously tried to fly it at Back of Roaches but there was not enough wind, so I had dialled in too much reflex. Colin has cleverly incorporated some reflex into the wing section he uses. Anyway the wind was about 20mph and the lift good. I had set up control movements as per Colin's detailed instructions - about 5mm for elevator and 7/8mm for ailerons. It doesn't need much as it flies at such speed. I had to land quickly to dial out the reflex and relaunch. It immediately got into the groove and sped round the sky at some lick. Rolls were quick but not too quick. It does lose height in the turn but not much. I needed some right trim but found my trim switch was stuck. I therefore put too much left trim on, which would not correct itself so I landed as I had to fly with some right stick correction. When I got home I discovered the problem was super glue. Fortunately, with a very small screwdriver, I was able to remove it, so another flight is awaited. This is a very fast reasonably priced flying wing which will provide hours of fun.

Well, that did not take long. Jobs to finalise have been Make a piece of ballast as recommended by Colin - see below Use a mini receiver to site behind the wing out of the way of the ballast. Make up some leads to attach to the receiver and meet up with the two elevon plugs Balance - the cg is 31 to 37mm from Leading Edge, so I made up a plasticine plug as a mould inside the nose, push it into sand surrounded by two layers of tin foil one of which remained in the sand, melted some lead in a tin and poured it in. Beware however that you lose about 10% as oxide so weigh afterwards. Glue the weight into the nose using a syringe and nozzle to get the glue in the right place Make up some extra white smaller decals with my vinyl printer - Fonts are Bauhaus 93 Italice for Wotz@ and Arial Rounded for XL - and put them on the fin So ready to mainden hopefully on Saturday The ballast weighs 186 grams and is 50mm long out of 21mm copper piper. The hole takes the front wing bolt which holds it in position. Looking good? Can't do without the usual WIckes Radiator insulation carrier bag, can we? Keeps it safe from dings and UV Light

Have been busy with the airbrush (new one with big nozzle for large areas by Sparmax - really good coverage - https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=400_403_1_146&products_id=22739 I have bought some airbrush mixed red and black from our local Arts Store, which cover really well. Then for the top of the wing and the canopy, I have used my B&Q mixed bright green which I have got lots of with some masking - turned out very well considering Also Colin provides a decal which is very appropriate. I applied from clear removal film so that the letters stick to it, come off the backing and can be laid down in position. One can use Masking Tape but it isn't as good. And

Whilst I wait for the copper piping for the ballast, to arrive, and the micro receiver, on with the canopy First of all the front catch. Colin says just glue it in with epoxy. I tried that and it pinged off when I tried to place the rear magnet in position, so I reverted to my initial plan of covering it in 2 layers of 150g fibreglass cloth Then the rear magnet glued into position in a recess already drilled by Colin - important to make sure that that one does not try to match 2 North Pole Magnets. Piece of masking tape to prevent the structure sticking to the bottom magnet when epoxied into position. Finally, epoxy glue mixed with some fibreglass dust, applied to the tope of the top magnet and the underneath of the canopy, and secured into place to dry with masking tape.