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Danny Fenton

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Everything posted by Danny Fenton

  1. PS like the Avatar Peter, are we all copying Steve LOL Are any of us actually flying or just staring skywards for the camera.....
  2. I usually fit one feed for the clunk and two feeds bent towards the top of the tank, one is fed by exhaust pressure the other I bring out on a short length of tubing, (just hangs outside of the cowling) I push an allen bolt into this to seal it under normal circumstances. So to fill the tank remove the blocking screw from tube and connect pump, fill until fuel seen in pressure feed to pipe (remove if you dont want an exhaust full of raw fuel) Draining is not quite so easy as you have to flip the model over and reverse the pump. Remember to replace the blocking screw before flight. The pressure in the fuel tank is very low. I fit a fuel filter to my filling system, not the model. Less to fall apart/come apart in flight, though you must ensure your system is clean in the first instance.
  3. I had a Sullivan tank recently, and it had some thin wire included that you were supposed to lock the silicon tubing to the brass. We never did this years ago and I never had any problems. I am not saying it isn't a good idea as we have all had a clunk fall off into the bottom of a sealed fuel tank at some time I guess. But if you twist that locking wire a fraction too much it is bound to nick the tubing. I am not sure I would lock the lines outside of the tank, just the clunk.
  4. Danny Fenton

    Newbies

    I think I have finally found somebody that instructs AND flies mode II so hopefully mine will commit aviation this weekend too. May need Wellingtons however, and several spare rudders for when they get sucked into the mud, and flip on landing :(
  5. The full size cub was fabulous at side slipping, perhaps an option??
  6. Just found the Electra Fun for £71.99 Sussex Model Centre. Looks like its rudder elevator throttle. Really wanted something with ailerons, but I guess if it got you airbourne thats great! Its certainly worth considering. Anybody know of any other cheap park flyers? Thanks for the info :)
  7. Excellent well done, I know everyone keeps saying don't do it alone, But I can't find an instructor that flies my mode in my area. I am still to find out whether it is accurate or not though I think I will be fine. I costed up a cheap brushless park flyer to do just what you have and I could n't see it costing less than £150 How much was the electrofun, it sounds perfect? Danny
  8. Hi Peter, I am using mine in a Chris Foss design Wot4 it has wingspan of 56" and an all up weight of about 4 and a half pounds. Running in is supposed to be done on an 11 x 6, which is what I have used (master Airscrew in my case) but I think I will try a 12 x 6 or 13 x 4 as I don't want to tear through the sky LOL. Holding the model vertically at two thirds throttle it just wants to go up! The Jen is pretty highly tuned and the power comes in with a wallop, I hope you still have a controllable throttle with that pipe???? I got the JEN Super Quiet pipe as the club I fly with have strict noise levels. Should be interesting :)
  9. Danny Fenton

    Newbies

    Hi Jez you after 2 stroke or 4? If this is your first engine may I suggest 2 stroke? You can't go wrong with an OS but they are not cheap. However a great first engine could be the OS46LA, its not ball raced so may not last as long as the hotter OS dual raced motors but they seem really popular. I am currently trying a Just Engnes JEN 57, loads of power and fairly cheap, I will let you know how it goes. I have heard some good reports on the ASP range though personally I have never owned one. Danny
  10. I guess it depends on the model, and your feel as to its reliabilty. I have put mine in a Wot 4 and to be honest I am sure the Jen would pull it around all day on a third throttle. So leaving it rich while running in could be done. I am not happy until it will sit at idle for a minute and pick up instantly when you open The throttle, this one isn't quite there yet. I need to trust an engine before I will fly with it, I will probably run a couple more tankfuls through. There is a noticeable vibration at certain rpms, which I am assuming is due to the prop I will have to re-check the balance. As I said I haven't had mine long, can I suggest we compare notes along the way?? As for starting, Two choked rotations and 5 flicks had it running, subsequent starts were first or second flicks.
  11. I have recently bought a Jen 57, am running it on Model technics GX-5, 20% castor. starts a dream (by hand) and seems to have a shed load of power even though not yet run in. Was warned that the trhottle response was either all or nothing, ie peaky, however mine throttles progressively. Its not got the build quality of an OS but its not the same price! I have heard several in my club berate the engine for having a soft conrod, when I mentioned perhaps thats why Just Engines demand a min of 18% oil, 2% castor! I was told that was rubbish. just Engines would not add notes in the packaging about warranty being invalid if the oil content is ignored for no reason, surely?
  12. Hi Allan, this may be a naieve observation on my part and I am sure others will have a more technical description, but Light ply seems to consist of two layers of 1/32" wood sandwiching a thicker layer of wood. I dont like the stuff, its brittle and warps if you look at it with a squint in your eye. Real marine quality or even aircraft quality ply has equal thickness's of each layer, so a piece of 1/4" ply will be made up of say 8 x 1/32" layers, all glued with a waterproof glue. Cheap ply may not use a waterproof glue and will delaminate when wet. please somebody dive in with a more technical answer of the type of wood used as I think aircraft or marine ply tends to be birch?? LOL
  13. hi David, I didn't know you could use an iron on Solatrim, I have some but not the right colour LOL. And indeed that would work, but and I know I am being picky my local shop has neither the blue solarlac nor the blue solatrim. The yellow SolarLac took over a week to come in :( Before you say it.....why didn't you order the blue at the same time LOL well I would but i couldn't remember the specific name of the shade of blue! Sometimes I am not safe to be let out on my own you see, my wife's allways telling me so.........
  14. Anybody ever tried solarfilm over ABS? I have a Wot4 ABS cowling that needs a small patch of blue at the top and the rest yellow. I have the Solarlac for the main yellow compound curved section, however the top bit would need less than a brushful of blue Solarlac. @ £4.50 a tin I am tempted to just use a small piece of the blue solarfilm. My fear is the iron may melt/deform the ABS. Would balsaLoc help to stick it at a cooler temperature? Anybody tried this?? I know I'm a cheap skate LOL I should just buy the blue Solarlac!
  15. Excellent thread Shaun, you have hit a chord with me on many of the subjects you mention. I am returning too after 25 years, and am frantically reading everything I can but still struggling with some of the "leccy" terms especially as Peter says 3s1p??? Sources for materials mentioned in articles is also a good idea. eg, I used to get lith plate from a printer I knew long ago, where do others get it??
  16. Danny Fenton

    Newbies

    The Weather was pretty dreadful my way today too.....spent most of the day researching buddy lead cables, still there is always next weekend, lets hope we have more success stories to report. Cheers
  17. Oh and it helps if you learn to grow an additonal hand! The times I end up grasping a wing between my knees, totally unproffesional but needs must.....
  18. Hi Andrew, just two things, get the iron the right temperature, and stretch/heat the Solarfilm with the iron BEFORE pulling it down onto compound curves. There is a pretty good set of "how to" videos on the solarfilm.co.uk website. I thought I was pretty good with the stuff but I still learned a fair bit from the videos. The one regarding mixing colours was an hour long, but very useful, the one outlining the basic steps was much shorter. I am sure all of us on here will help you any way we can, just ask.
  19. Danny Fenton

    Newbies

    Its the weekend please refrain from the "W" word the moderator will be down on us like a ton of bricks! Sorry to hear about the Apache, I hope it makes aspeedy recovery. The Wot 4 is a bit of a modelling legend, it wasn't around when I flew last. However everybody that has been modelling a few years has had one and they all have nothing but praise, it is supposed to be good at everything. A colleague who also is amodeller, says he has had 12! and that story is not that unusual. This is my first so I will let you know what I think. The drawback for the modern R/C enthusiast (ARTF pilots) is the Wot 4 arrives in strips of balsa and ply, and you do need a bit of modelling knowledge or experience, and a good feel for figuring stuff out. This is why I love building models, a series of solutions that must be found, lightness versas strength, the constant battle. Anyway take a look at this sites homepage, there was a good article done by Dave Ashby which looks at the Wot 4, and whether it is still worth a look, well worth a read. Gone on a bit sorry will go now....
  20. I got mine from Sussex Model Centre, mind you now it is £20 no wonder they are all sold out...
  21. Oh just thought Steve, If you get the Planemaster based on the advert on the back page of one of the mags, it has some errors, the planes you get are incorrect, you do not get the Hurricane with PlaneMaster, but you do with FlightMaster. I must confess to liking PlaneMaster more despite the fewer models. Also make sure your confuser has a 3d Video card, (nearly all do nowadays) I had to update the driver to get it to work, any probs give me a shout. You can download a free trial version by the way. Realitycraft.com Ought to be om commision LOL
  22. Oh No, sorry to hear about the SU27. I just got back from the field. Didn't get to fly, it seems nobody in my club flys mode II (throttle left) And as I use JR (they all use Futaba) I cannot even buddy box my Mode II from their Mode I. Anybody know if you can buddy a JR PCM with a Futaba? Ho Hum what Joy..... maybe I should try one of these schools people keep mentioning, just to get me certified?
  23. I think it is really good Steve, I was slightly annoyed as I bought PlaneMaster just before they started using there own controller rather than the Powers unit. My unit came to about £50. I am not sure about the new controller but the Powers one has additonal buttons/switches for retracts, flaps engine cut etc. I spent an extra £29 to buy the JR/Futaba USB converter and it means I can use my own Tx, as I think it is important (but what do I know LOL) to get used to where your own trim levers, flap controls etc. The club I have joined (Greenacres)is having a sim night next Wednesday, i will be taking along two laptops one with the JR Tx and the FlightMaster the other with PlanMaster and the Powers Tx, I don't suppose you are anywhere near Aldridge in the Midlands?? You would be more than welcome to give my kit a bash.
  24. Hi Shaun thats exactly what worries me, Is it too easy. I guess the only way I will know for sure is to get to the field and see.
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