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McG 6969

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Everything posted by McG 6969

  1. Really great John, I'm about two thousand light years behind... ppfff Happy tailing Chris Brussels, Belgium
  2. Yes, Wolston... but I'am not even sure if my non-collection of models will last for that long... Registered Newbie, remember? Happy collecting Chris Brussels, Belgium
  3. Hi John, Yes, plenty of (Far East) 'cheap' pins, adult clothes pins & 4 different types of clamps already. Never thought though that starting a modelling workshop from scratch would need that much stuff. The Einhell jigsaw & pillar drill were presents of the LotH, but I think she is going to sponsor next summer holiday as well (she doesn't know yet !) ... Happy work-shopping Chris Belgium, Brussels
  4. Yesterday, I was distracted from my glues & chemicals testing and “Yes, Your Honour, I didn’t shoot the sheriff, but I’ve been ‘robbing’ the bank! I really had to buy some aliphatic & super-phatic as I felt a bit sad here with no light in my tunnel. While online, I couldn’t resist for some Modeller’s Glue, some Micro Balloons & Sand ‘n Seal as well. “One should go on testing”, I thought. Let’s then have a look at that Perma-Grit site. “Yes, Your Honour”. Ok then, simples. A Straight 280mm, a Wedge 140mm, a 3mm Spar Cutter & a 6mm one will do. Check! Getting back to Earth, I realised that I could have bought 2 HK ARF’s (waiting for the discount tag to appear) for that kind of money… But now at least I know that I’m officially a (still minority though) shareholder of Royal Mail… Happy Modelling Chris Brussels, Belgium
  5. Hi, Regarding every possible conversion, I'm using this for years now. It's a stand-alone (no install needed) converter for PC. It features 22 different categories (distance, mass, surface, density, etc.) Just make your choice of unit input (ex. kilowatt) and unit output (ex. pound-feet/minute), type in the digit to be calculated... et voila. You can even ad your own parameters/units if you feel it 'incomplete'. Anyone interested can PM me his mailaddress & I'll forward it with pleasure. Happy calculating Chris Brussels, Belgium
  6. Thank you Peter, for confirming me the 'normal' condition of my neurons (at least, at this point of the build) ... Chris
  7. Martin, Also, if I remember well the balsa former's grain was drawn wrongly on the published plan & should be vertical just like the ply formers. I didn't wrote this down in my notes though since mine will be Depron anyway and of course my neurons could be flashed out by my extensive glues-testing... May I suggest you a quick check with Peter or kc about this? Happy checking Chris
  8. Hi Martin, Subscribed & will be following with interest. Please keep detailing as much as possible as I will be back nicking your ideas for the wings of my Bella Ballerina HD. Peter & kc suggested to move the dowel hole in F2 upwards by 6mm (& doing the same to the R1 rib slot with a depth of 50mm) for increased strength. Are you not doing this on yours? Happy cutting Chris Brussels, Belgium
  9. Please Gentlemen, don't ask me to get some balsa cement as well... I really do have already enough tubes, jars, pots, blisters, bottles, and so on in the testing row... ppfff Well, if the smell is really that 'special' , I might give it a try... But at the moment, I'm concentrating on the ammonia smell of some latex rubber... Happy cementing Chris Brussels, Belgium ps: ... and I thought the newcomers could expect some help from the Master Builders...
  10. Hi Levanter3, I'll second John with his feeling that is going to be a very neat build... so, subscribing right away! On the other hand I feel quite jealous about all your tools and even more about your sanding blocks... As soon as my glue-testing-phase gets calmed down, I really will have to allow myself an enormous tool budget. On the other hand, I like your army of balsa blocks, but as for squaring things up, I'm already the proud owner of a liberal amount of large Duplo building blocks... Not talking about own experience of course, but I think it would give some extra insurance to have some metal gears for ailerons, specially if you go for bell cranks. I'm really not that far, though. Happy starting Chris Brussels, Belgium
  11. @ Bob Thank you for the tip. I visited the Jivaro site several times already. There is a lot of very useful information about Depron techniques over there and Laurent is a very helpful modeler. It's very probably his assistance that convinced me to have a go at the 'hybrid' version of the Bella Ballerina. The UHU Creativ is a neoprene type with good flexibility when cured but the Por seems more adequate as a contact adhesive for Depron. Sader (made by Bostik France) is in fact an outdoor PU wood glue and is comparable to my Soudal PU. Thanks again, Bob. @ Peter Wauw... that sounds 'easy' to me... so, at least you didn't experience my kind of 'nearly-full-darkness-in-the-tunnel', then? Must have been some wonderful times... Happy tunneling Chris Brussels, Belgium
  12. Thank you gentlemen, Were you all that confused as well when starting your 'careers'? The darkness is still very present in my tunnel and that little light over there really seems so tiny... I have found some PVA & PU adhesives both from a Belgian industrial supplier called Soudal. The PU looks like it could be the cousin of the US brand Gorilla Glue. I think I'm starting to enjoy comparing technical specifications sheets. Concerning Aliphatic & Super-phatic, I'm now wondering if I should become the new importer of Deluxe Materials for Benelux, if I should emigrate to Mallorca to share some with Levanter3 or more simply perhaps, order some online (thinking that I just bought British Post...) & have some testing done... Happy ordering Chris Brussels, Belgium
  13. Thanks kc, I'll have a look at SLEC for sure, but the 'overseas postage' is almost killing down the average continental newcomer... Does the 'normal' aliphatic compares to a fast PVA glue? Happy postaging Chris Brussels, Belgium
  14. Hey BEB, Will you keep encouraging me as well? Really think I 'll need it, crazy me! Keep up the good words, please. Happy encouraging Chris Brussels, Belgium
  15. Thank you Levanter3, To be honest, I guess I would definitely prefer the Mediterranean climate. So, if I understand correctly, Super-phatic is a thin CA equivalent that you can use by capillarity while bits are already pinned to the building board? While aliphatic should more compare to Polyurethane glue (PVA) then? Could you please give me some brand names for aliphatic? Quite still confused here, I'm afraid... Happy Mallorcing Chris Brussels, Belgium
  16. Hi WolstonFlyer, Welcome to the Club. I'll try to build a 'hybrid' version as well. Meaning to combine Depron & balsa for my Bella Ballerina. Going for electric also and considering the front section, I'm thinking (not decided yet) about leaving F1 where it is (cutted inside for the Lipo) and adding a F0 (?) about 40-50 mm in front of it to become the motor mount. But then my problem is a bit different than yours as mine has to be a 'closed ply box' only surrounded by foam. Happy calculating Chris Brussels, Belgium
  17. Hi to all, I read quite a lot about ‘aliphatic’ and ‘super-phatic’ glues. But could someone point me out the differences between them & how to use them, please? I believe I’ve been reading that Super-phatic is a Deluxe Materials product. Again, bad luck (the same as for finding some Depron Aero) as they are currently still looking for some distributor in Belgium, The Netherlands & Luxemburg! I found an online shop in Germany but they are out of stock… Then some distributor in France but only selling to model shops… ppfff. Should I really consider emigrating to the Channel - or the Orkney Islands? Happy aliphatic-ing Chris Brussels, Belgium Edited By McG 6969 on 02/01/2016 17:08:43
  18. Danny, I had a closer look at some of your pictures of the full scale cockpit & the padding seems to be quite 'flat', not really 'round-ish'. So, my rubber band idea might not work nicely scale here. What about making a plasticine (or Polymer Clay) 'positive' model, then moulding a silicone 'negative', and finally pour some latex rubber in it? No, really, I didn't drink too much at New Year's Eve... Cheers Chris Brussels, Belgium
  19. Hi Danny, I'm experimenting a lot at the moment as to prepare myself a little better before attacking the Bella Ballerina. One of my try-outs was using some latex rubber for moulding a pilot buste. So, concerning your protection padding, I was thinking of the following: I've taken a glass with a diameter of 8 cm, give it a few brushed coats (2-3) of latex with 10 to 15 minutes in between. All around the perimeter of the glass with a height of about 5 cm. When dry (about 24 hours) just roll it over itself till you get some kind of rubber band over your glass. As you have an open sided rubber band, you can slide it over whatever edge you have. Then a few drops of canopy glue to prevent it unrolling... et voila. Very light, still elastic & strong. You could adapt the diameter & the amount of turns over itself depending on the size/scale that you desire. Hope this helps. Sorry, no pictures taken. Cheers Happy latexing Chris Brussels, Belgium
  20. ... sheesh... very impressive build. ... except for the thumb story... (sorry, easy one). One question though: how are you making the holes for the 'paper tube'? With a sharpened tube when still in the 'block'? Or individually after removing the jigs? Thanks Chris Brussels, Belgium
  21. Hello David, I'm a newbie to this, but if you compare to the Baron 1914 (with 100's of them flying in France / cfr Coupe des Barons), the dihedral is reduced by 50% for the ailerons version. So, I'm seconding Geoff with his answer. Personally & speaking out of experience here, I wouldn't jump onto building planes in relation to a Cupido-therapy... but then, that's me... . Happy dihedraling Chris Brussels, Belgium   Edited By McG 6969 on 01/01/2016 18:54:30
  22. Hello Craig, Welcome to the MB and I just subscribed to your blog. Total newbie in RC & my first ever build. I'm trying a hybrid Depron/balsa version of the lady. Feel free to visit the Bella Ballerina HD blog. Happy New Year to you & your family Chris Brussels, Belgium
  23. Hello BEB, Thank you for visiting the Bella Ballerina blog. Are you going for a 250 W/lb-version on 6S now then??? ... . Can't miss that for sure. Already subscribed. Have a great New Year's Eve & a successful 2016 for you and your family. Happy powering Chris Brussels, Belgium
  24. @ AVC No daft questions, you know... only sometimes silly answers... In a very recent past (around Christmas time), I've been testing different possibilities for Depron, split over the different materials to combine with. Of course, non-solvent glues are a must. So, It seems that for: Depron to Depron > UHU Por is the winner but solvent free spray adhesives (I tested Bison) are fine to laminate large surfaces together. I will be doing my tailplanes that way. Depron to Ply > some PVA wood glue (thinned about 50%) spread over the ply and scraped away with an old gift or bank card (the type that Mr Bean used to call "My flexible friend"...). In fact, using very little of it. Then some UHU Por over the foam, wait for about 10 - 15 minutes & join them preferably with some pressure. As UHU Por is a contact adhesive, it seems more efficient to 'prepare' the adhesion to the other porous surface. I also tested some old fashion school paper glue (from Tesa) in combination with the UHU. Works very nicely as well & is slightly lighter. Depron to Balsa > same as above but a little thicker (thinned about 25%). Depron to Glass Fiber / CF > Epoxy 30 minutes preferably or foam-safe CA if the joint is not to be locally stressed. Just hope that answered your question Anyway amendments or additional tips are mostly welcome. @ BEB Thank you for visiting. I'm certainly not projecting that my results will be that 'impressive' but indeed convinced that I'll be learning a lot. I think there must be some kind of 'inversion' here... Experienced modelers asking a 'total newbie' like me for some tips about Depron. Quite funny... . Happy New Year to all of you. Chris Brussels, Belgium
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