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911hillclimber

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Everything posted by 911hillclimber

  1. Thank you, I found that link a week ago and it is full of tips. Part of that write-up is supplied with the plans for the engine by Hemmingways. I have not yet thought of a way to machine the mounting ears and the cylinder/block deck height, going to be a challenge... Back and knees aching after standing at the lathe for hours and days, so taking a few days break to walk the pains away! Did you soft solder the transfer box and the inlet stub to the cylinder?
  2. Managed a few hours in the garage today. The cylinder ports are all cut using a 1/8" slot drill which is the smallest I have, but new so keen. Slightly juddery cutting due to the excessive back lash in the lathe's cross slide, but with a little help of a Swiss file, all done. Borrowing 3 reamers off my mate on Monday to ream the crank shaft bushes out and also be ready for making the con rod which must be the most awkward part to make in the whole engine. Bits of this engine slowly gathering. A few pics as ever say more than my words: 73T
  3. Cricky! 1/2 a workshop on there, but does look very very stable and dead true.
  4. No, don't have a face plate (yet)! The Drummond is a beauty, absolutely love it to bits. From it's serial number i think it is 1922 or 23, a hundred years old. The Drummond was sold to Myford during the WW2 and lots of Myford parts fit it. The round bed is really a very pronounced C shape, the round tube has a slot all the way along the bottom and the slide is locked onto a centrally running screw hence getting the axial travel. Here is a bit of an update: Got out of thread trouble this morning with a Sh!t-or-Bust approach that saved the day, or rather the cylinder block and rear cover machined parts. Got it all to screw together and tight. Did my first Lathe/Miller cuts using the Myford cross/vertical slide which was satisfying and decided to call it a day until tomorrow when the rain will keep us indoors. Need to borrow a 17mm reamer now and the block can be milled for deck height, rod clearance and induction porting. Will cut the cylinder ports first thing. A few pics: Here, the block and the rear cover are in their chucks, hence the strange picture. The flat face next to the thread is too large, it needs to be machined when the crank and crank pin are in place to set the float of the crank, so some more fitting needed later. 73T 911 Coupe, road/hillclimber 3.2L
  5. Nice solution! I don't have a miller but do have a compound slide for the lathe. Will have to use that (vise attached to it) to mill the mounting lugs on the case and could make a similar 'chuck-block'. Good food for thought. Pic below is a quick set-up to see what versatility I can get off the slide. Here to machine the ports in the cylinder. The case is much harder as it is a rough casting and tricky to get hold of. Need to fix the cock-up I've made of the block's 24 tpi thread and back plate first or it's start again on the block. The castings are available easy at lest and Hemmingway's are just 20 mins away from me.
  6. 2010, bought the 'kit' just after Xmas to keep busy! Had my first almost catastrophic set back this afternoon, but have a plan to get out of jail.
  7. Good to read Keith, thank you. I'm tweaking the design as I go along, bit of metric here and there. I am detailing the project on another non-related forum but here is my latest update of today: Spent all day in front of the lathe today, nice, but sure gets to your knees! Made the contra piston compression screw first, just an M6 set screw, a length of 2mm spring steel and a blob of braze, oh so easy! Next up was the dreaded inlet 'manifold' from the venturi spray bar (needle jet) to the inlet port when I've machined it. This is a small awkward part, drawn 2 x full size on the plan to make it easier. Taper machining on the bell mouth and similar taper internal machining inside to create a thin tapered wall. Easy to type...but got there in the end with a bit of imagination. Finished the bell mouth (shape is more like the mouth of a rainbow trout) with a file, far to intricate to machine. Finished well. So much for those bits, time for the crankcase. Looks complicated but i hope I have started it the right way. You need to machine the inside of the case for the crank shaft and the rod, but the whole lot is trapped in the case by a screw-in back plate and the crank runs onto a bush with a trust face to take the axia 'pull' of the propeller. So, with my nice new 4 jaw chuck, got the casting as true as i thought right and faced the back of the casting, drilled the 7/16" dia hole for the crank shaft bushes and then opened out the inside to 1.250" dia. This left me with just enough cast metal to take the 24 tpi back plate thread. Really could have done with off setting the casting 1/32" more to get more metal but all done now. Threading tomorrow/Thursday and then deciding how to do the crank bushes and keep them in line for the crank. They are a 2 thou press fit. What can go wrong? (watch this space). 73T 911 Coupe, road/hillclimber 3.2L
  8. One more part made today, or rather, finished off. The aluminium cooling jacket/cylinder head was machined to have fins and shaped. Talk about tool chatter and swarf!
  9. Today was starting the cylinder cooling jacket, cutting an internal thread to match the one on the cylinder and to ensure the two screwed tight to seal the cylinder 'head'. All worked out well with a few nervous moments, but what projects are all about!
  10. The 5cc design is fortunately large enough to keep things away from super precision, I'm not a detailed machinist, just keen knowing just enough to be really dangerous! Doing the first part, the complex cylinder from En8.
  11. Just asking if anyone on here has made a Hemmingway model aero 5cc diesel engine from scratch?
  12. The plane is all done today, ready to fly next year I hope. Wings covered well, raided an old RC trainer of it's electrics, and re-installed the lot into the glider with a new folding prop etc. Remarkably for me I managed to get the RC all bound and servo's all working inside of 20 mins. Pondered though on the question of balance, but with battery in place (3 cell) and 30g of weight in the nose to achieve a slight nose down when balanced on the main spar position of the wing. I hope this is right! Has been a nice little rescue project.
  13. 1/2 way through the 'design as you go' glider wing. Coming along well, covering nest.
  14. Thank you Pat The plane came with a very small prop unmarked but measures 7" dia open, blade length only 2.5" The original motor a 2 wire lump with a small 1/8" shaft dia I do not yet have an ESC for this Overlander, 4Max I'm sure will advise when I'm ready. My club has a good field with a relatively tight strip, but others manage perfectly ok gliding into the field, one in particular flies with laser precision....but that's not me!
  15. Off to the model shop tomorrow to buy the wood for the wing. 74" wingspan as the spruce/balsa length is 36" and the centre section will be 2" flat width and the wing halves will angle from that root. dihedrel will be 100 mm at each wing tip. I have a set of super clean laser cut ribs from Sky High RC, and have now designed the wing: (I use the term 'Designed' loosely.... it took me all of 15/20 mins). I plan to install ailerons from the tapered wing tip across to the parallel length of the wing ( approx 560 mm) and might thieve these (foam) sections from a 'dead' Kingfisher that will donate the servos too. Will use 3/16" SQ spruce for wing spans and bridge between top and bottom runs with 1/16 balsa sheet pieces from root to tip. There are 26 ribs/ half wing, so 35 mm between ribs. Root will be reinforced by ply for 4" either side of the root section and then those 1/16 balsa infills there after. Ply will join the upper and lower spruce strips together with epoxy. This fuselage centre section will be sheeted over with a hole to allow servo wires out to the Rx. Parts will be glued using Super Phatic! and Gorilla epoxy. Covered with semi see-through Solartex (as the tail plane) I expect this wing (my first self 'designed' model aero plane part ever) to be strong enough. (optimist) I have a new motor from another project which I think is FAR too powerful but fits the fuselage nose a treat. It is an Overlander T4240/10 and will run on my stash of 3S batteries. Will this be too much; I don't HAVE to use full speed.. What size folding prop should I use for this model please?? I could buy a used wing off ebay, but this is far more fun.
  16. I now have the gifted fuselage which is in perfect condition along with tail plane and rudder. Futaba servos to the tail and a very old looking motor! As a winter project I will build my own wing, 2 meters span in 2 parts. Simple dihedral as previously suggested using a pre cut taper wing 'kit' of ribs off ebay if the chord is about right. I fancy adding long ailerons while there as I have a pair of wing mounted servos spare. A few more questions please; What motor size would be good? I have some 3 cell batteries (Lipo) so want to keep this 'capacity' so the motor is just to get to altitude etc. Also, what size folding prop would I use? Motor/esc/prop will all come from 4Max. Radio will be with my trusty Spektrum DX6, so I will be removing the current RX etc. Just to add, have ordered the rib set, root chord 7.16". Adding ailerons, there is no need for dihedral, the wing can be flat?? (easier to build and join) Thanks for all the help as ever! Graham.
  17. Thank you Robin for this info, could be the way forward. Must get over to my friends and get the fuselage to see what size I need (chord)
  18. I say carbon because the foam models I have have this tube to link the 2 halves, With a wingspan this big it will have to be 2 halves to get it into the Skoda!
  19. Good going! Classic build up of those parts, I can do that! The cord will come off the fuselage and the section shape at the centre, joint with carbon spar tube (etc). The kit will come with radio, but I'll 'fit' the plane to match my trusty Spektrum DX6 and a plane dedicated Rx Notice 2 gliders on ebay right now, one £75 and complete, but buy to take the wing is not much of a winter project! Again, thanks to all.
  20. I really appreciate everyone's help. Do people actually sell 'general' wings of this size? My local flying field (CMFC) is definitely flat though on a very slight crown of a 'hill'. A flyer there uses a powered glider to such good effect by power/hand launch.
  21. Thank you everyone! Great forum of fact not fiction. So, I am told (not seen the plane yet) that the fuselage is not foam, fibre glass sounds right. Question now is finding the plan for the wings. I like the simplicity of flat bottom section I must admit. The wing shape is interesting and idea for a winter project. Anyone with an idea on finding a source for the wing plan? (whatever the span, but 100" sounds good.
  22. Too true! Just done some google and it certainly is not that design. So, any ideas? I really need to find a plane of the main wing used on this design.
  23. Thanks for your reply, looks exactly the same I think. Is the wing 2 pieces or one?any other details welcome! Off the box, Bird of Time is clear, but the manufacturer is 'Dyna????'
  24. This glider is coming my way gifted by a friend. I think it is from 2000 or thereabouts, but it is missing the main wing... Winter project is to find/build a main wing, but knowing what it is would help (find a wing, find a plan etc) Any help appreciated.
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