Nigel R
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Everything posted by Nigel R
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Thanks Bill, I think I may go for the point you suggest, just after the bend. Ok, not much happened over the past couple of weeks, but I have managed to fettle the retracts a bit, this included: Making the leg sit at 90deg downward, and hence in line with the underside of wing when retracted; I also made both the legs sit at the same horizontal level when retracted, one was a bit higher than the other. This was basically a good hour or so, in and out of a vice, a little bend here, checking, another little bend there, checking... Bending some 2mm pushrods to the right shape, in order to clear the maple bearers. Making a few small notches in the ribs to allow the pushrods to move without rubbing on the woodwork. Putting in some scrap braces around where the retract servo will fit, so that I can easily form the well when the wings are joined. That lot took what seemed like an absolute age, and nothing looks very much different for it! Still, all necessary jobs. I have a final bit of tickling to do to the angle of the retract legs (I'm a degree or so low when retracted) and then its back to the woodwork proper.
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...and good it was too, although I, like others, have seen it before. ".the program shows what we had " We, well, the UK aviation industry in general, were disorganised, that was the main problem, I thought the interviewees on the programme summed it up quite well, loads of really good ideas, not all 100% viable, but ultimately, too many small companies chasing too many small contracts and not able to fulfull a big order should there be one. And BOAC sounded like a complete farce. Mind you the Comet came pretty bloody close. If we'd had production capacity then perhaps the VC10 would have done well, too. Packing in more people would have been easy and as the wing and engines were spec'ced for hot and high a fuselage stretch would seem to be heading in the direction of the Ilyushin airliner which had a long service life.
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Bae Hawk by D. Crawford
Nigel R replied to Jim Purcha's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Looking good in the red & white. How are you treating of the cowl area? Clearcote around the nose first, film next, then over the edges of film with more clearcote? -
Peter, the OP has an S90K - the review is for the G90. There's some tach readings on another forum http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tachometer-readings-173/11186316-supertigre-s90k.html From that thread, the author reports 12k7rpm on a 13x6 with stock exhaust and 5%. Nearly another 1k on the mini pipe sounds in line with those numbers to me. Try running silencer pressure if you're not already. Or vice versa. Beyond that, maybe the carb just isn't quite right for this engine. I'm guessing it is the Irvine 60 carb? The RCU thread seems to suggest that an ASP 108 carb works well on this motor. Just engines might be able to help with one?
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Frog Jackdaw conversion to electric
Nigel R replied to david humphris's topic in Electric Flight for Beginners
For reference; http://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=4367 Some big servos shown on that plan! -
On an only slightly related note, the Phoenix simulator keeps a log of hours airborne for each model. I got more than 60 hours of actual flying time in over a period of four months, purely from getting an hour in after the rest of my family were in bed, during the weekdays. I stopped noting things down at that point. Anyway, I figured that was probably about 3 or 4 years worth of real world flying time. It's easy to get lots of stick time on sims.
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On the subject of the motor, I need to add a pressure tap to the exhaust. I'm thinking it could go on the manifold, right by the engine on the nice flat surface. Any periods or cons to this location?
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I got the retract units lined up and drilled some holes in the bearers. These will have some m3 blind nuts on but right now they're taped into the maple, so as I have some way of boring the units on while I get the legs set up correctly and the pushrods in place and that sort of stuff. First job was to cut the legs down a little and to cut a clearance slot in the rib with the razor saw. The units are mounted just below the level of the wing skins. They'll be covered up by a 1/8 balsa plate to beautify things a bit. Just for completeness here's a picture of the top side if the unit. You can sort of make out the cam mechanism at the front of the unit. Also visible at the front is the slot to clear the pushrod. Edited By Nigel R on 27/02/2017 09:46:14
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"My question is could the pipe I,m running create this type of running ?" IME a short pipe, which is close enough to the right length to be affecting things, will make the needle very very touchy and the engine will run hot, and possibly blow plugs. If none of that is happening then my guess would be the pipe isn't causing issues. But, don't take that as gospel. And in all honesty it simply sounds like the low end isn't yet tuned right. You might have a carb issue contributing to that, something that gives erratic tuning. Possibly an air leak, maybe an old hard O ring or something similar. Or a pinhole in a fuel line. On the prop front, 13x6 is a bit small for a 90, but it shouldn't stop you getting a decent idle, pickup and top end. A bigger heavier prop would however let you get the idle slower. Edited By Nigel R on 27/02/2017 09:03:30
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Posted by Cuban8 on 27/02/2017 08:12:56: So.........An engine in a test stand running in free air & without baffles, should always overheat beause the air takes the route of least resistance round the engine and not through the fins....................but of course, we know that doesn't happen. but an engine on test stand is out in the airflow from the prop, not stuck inside a bucket of hot stationary air (like a cowl with no proper exit or baffling)? Edited By Nigel R on 27/02/2017 08:26:47
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Hi Ken I inherited quite a few engines from my dad (he's an electric convert these days). Some have been sold already, these are yet to be so. Photos on request if you're interested. Also have a few spare glow heads (definitely) and some props & a cox spanner (I think) to go with them. There may be one or two other spares (needle valve, maybe a tank) but again can't say 100% for certain.
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How about a cox 010, an 020, an (apparently) unrun 020, an 049 and a throttled 049?
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I made a start on the carve & sand exercise, that is the trailing edge and ailerons. From this to this: A slow business. Anyway, that's the first side nearly complete. The masking tape is there to protect the ribs from an errant swipe with the sanding block. And, when you get close to complete with the TE sanding, the masking tape will start rubbing away. At that point, tape off, and proceed very carefully with the last 1/32". This is where I'm at now, with the pictured aileron. And then, just the other side to do!
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One £20 engine, the aforementioned ringed 46 SF. Its a bit discoloured, but the carbon and castor cleaned off no problem with a few minutes of boiling in water with some dishwasher powder. It's been run since and oiled of course. Note non-standard old Irvine 40 plastic carb. The manifold is from an Irvine 40, too. The old mk1 Irvines had the same width (quite narrow) bolt on exhaust as the OS FSRs, and the OS SFs kept that bolt drilling (as well as adding the now fairly standard 37mm bolt through). Starts easiest with a backflip, somewhat unusually. Starter & the normal forwards flip, it does not like. Edited By Nigel R on 24/02/2017 08:53:56
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Posted by Mannyroad on 23/02/2017 22:25:25: Have leaned it up twice by around 10-15 degrees each time and still not much better. This probably isn't recommended method, but I go 90 deg on the first adjustment, then 45 on the next, then half that that again the next one... at that point its down to tiny adjustments. If the first 90 takes you way past the right spot, go 45 back. etc.
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"As for stick input. I would respectfully suggest that you have contradicted yourself" Perhaps you misunderstand what I wrote. A 3d aerobat should be trimmed to fly exactly the same right way up as upside down. That means a slight dive towards terra firma. Correct with up when upwards. Correct with down when inverted. The neutral trim prevents unwanted errors during knife edge, hover & vertical. Other model types - straight and level with hands off. YMMV.
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Yes, definitely worth having a look for user made models. "It is not good practice for you learning with a stick input held" Depends on the model, I would say the 3d types you want set up as neutral as possible which will mean a slight dive when right side up as well as wrong side up.
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"Don't underestimate the ability of a 40 to hurt." That's worth repeating. I like the backflip video, although that technique is not so easy with every engine.
