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Capt Kremen

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Everything posted by Capt Kremen

  1. Agree 'extra slim'. Consistency and quality control in many, if not most, model items (and other general products), seems to be very hit and miss. You buy a 'WizzFast 800' electric motor, fantastic, buy another a while later as you're so impressed and it's meh! Same for LiPo, ESC, Servo even some ARTFs. Very much a batch issue and if you're unlucky, you're put off whilst your club mate gets a good 'un and of course swears by 'Bloggs Batteries' and so on.
  2. I use varifocals and, touch wood, have had no significant issues to date. It is apparent from the various posts here that whilst there are general groupings i.e. long sighted, short sighted etc., there are multiple permutations in between. As we and our eyes age, changes will occur so what may have been fine in ones 30s, less so or not at all in 60s and so on. I have used small, independent opticians as well as the high street chains, (the latter I understand are often franchises). Good and bad in both, just have to hope the optician is one of the better ones wherever you go!
  3. Whilst alloy stand-offs are nice and invariably strong for any size motor, a custom made ply box can be tailored to the exact size and distance for the prop driver/spinner backplate.
  4. +1 for Phoenix Model Products (= PMP). The CNC cutting is excellent, balsa, ply and sundry items equally so and the kit plans and instructions are crystal clear. Stan Yeo, (proprietor of PMP), always goes the extra mile and if you get stuck or need advice, I'm sure he will oblige. PMP also stock all the items you may need such as glue, model pins and covering etc. (I have no commercial interest in PMP just a very, very satisfied customer over many years).
  5. Very interesting, what sort of costs for a reasonable 'model' runway? I have often wondered whether military surplus 'Marston Mat' might make a cheap(er) runway for model flying but perhaps the drainage hole size would not suit all but the large(r) model wheel. Good for the parking and pits areas perhaps(?) Anyone using 'Marston Mat' and can advise costs?
  6. As most of us have had to do during this challenging time, I have ordered numerous items including model goods online. The higher value model goods e.g. packs of servo, often come with a signed for Royal Mail sticker attached. This must cost the sender extra. I am not having a go at our poor hard pressed posties delivering but the item is usually just pushed through the letterbox or if too big, left outside 'by the flowerpot'! Unless signed for actually gives the sender a degree of insurance, (if the goods are not received), this 'signed for service' is a total waste at this time. Meanwhile, I add my thumbs up to DPD as one of the better courier with DHL close second. Not had problems, (touch wood!), with Hermes but their deliveries take longer as the parcel is shuffled from one handler to another cross-country. And of course ... Amazon is next day, including Sundays!
  7. Unless you are 'in-the-know', you are probably unlikely to encounter control-line activity these days. Add to which most (all?) those (including this scribe), who enjoyed heady ether and castor oil engines, 'Laystrate' lines and rotating on the spot, get giddy just getting up out of the armchair these days. Much as I enjoy 'the good old days', nostalgia etc. etc. I can't see many a younger person keen to participate in C/L, (or free-flight dare I say), when there's all the wizardry of a quad with camera, GPS, ad infinitum tech to play with.
  8. Can any of our chemical experts among us explain what magic ingredient(s) go into expensive 'Super Glues'? I have recently been using a pound-shop variety, 3 bottles in a pack for £1 !) with equal satisfactory results. Are we just paying for a name or are there real advantages in using the expensive stuff? What does a £6 or £8 pound 'model company' bottle do that the £1 DIY (same size) one, doesn't?
  9. As others have suggested, the original 2200mAh size LiPo is probably the optimal pack for this model. Small, incremental increases in flight time may be achieved by: (a) Perhaps obvious but often overlooked, careful throttle management i.e. not flying at full power all the time! (b) Exchanging any heavier items such as main wheels for lighter items or a tail wheel similarly so 'dead weight' balance nose weight may be removed, all to lighten the aircraft. A lighter airframe needs less power for the same results. (c) Experiment, within the margins suitable for the motor, with different prop sizes/pitch. Even trying props of the same size but from a different brand can make a significant difference. (d) Balance the prop. An unbalanced one is inefficient as well as likely causing increased wear on the motor bearings. All the above may only on their own add seconds to your flight duration but do six, ten second gains and that's another useful minute in the air.
  10. Can vouch for the quality and durability of the NCSL wire bender. Well worth the money, will last years and serve you well for every wire bending task.
  11. I present here information gleaned from numerous model magazines, books, YouTube video etc. regarding early electric powered models including the efforts of Col. Taplin with his 'Radio Queen'. My apologies for the quality of some of these as they are usually photo copies of old or out of print items. YouTube video of Col.Taplin and his 'Radio Queen' note bank of battery cells: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqhMD5iu_gs Here is the 'Aeromodeller' article from the September 1957 issue: However, earlier electric models are suggested including this from 1918: And from 1938 American 'Flying Aces' magazine, the Herb Lozier 'Electric' spanning 64 inches. I managed to obtain a full-size plan of this from 'Model Builder', a(nother) project for one day!
  12. Ian Whittaker See Personal Message (PM) sent. My 'Radio Queen' has flown with numerous engines (i/c) and motors (electric) in its long life to date. These include OS 40 four-stroke, Oliver Tiger Diesel, Astro 40 Cobalt Geared electric, Graupner SPEED 700 with belt reduction drive and now a Overlander 'Tornado' C3548 900Kv brushless driving a 13 x 4 APC E prop. A 3S 3300mAh LiPo provides the electrons into a 40A ESC with SBEC. (I see Overlander now offer a 'Thumper V3' motor of similar spec). The LiPo battery, as in many of my vintage/old-timer models, is inserted vertically in the front of the model. It is secured against one of the front ply formers (F2 or F3?), usually under the leading edge of the wing. As a comparison, it first flew with 14 H-e-a-v-y Sanyo NiCad Cells with the Astro 40 motor, weighed close to 7 Lbs and still flew! You can image the plane almost 'jumps' into the air on 3S LiPo using the far more efficient brushless motor. After the initial burst of power to get airborne and avoid any risk of ground swing, the throttle is quickly brought back and the motor barely ticks over but still keeps the plane aloft. (I will shortly post details of Col.Taplin's efforts and other early electric models in a new thread).
  13. There are various reports regarding Col. Taplin and the 'Radio Queen' model including other references to a Mr Peter Cock involvement in the design. I have details of the Aeromodeller report and will shortly upload these under a separate post so as not to further detour from the original enquirers question.
  14. Radio Queen - Flies a dream now on 3S LiPo. The light wing loading, they float around on a whisper of power. (Oh and the original Col. Taplin 'Radio Queen' actually flew using electric power in 1957 using a war surplus Emerson electric motor and banks of zinc cells - Aeromodeller reports with pictures confirm) Edited By Capt Kremen on 27/12/2020 19:01:39 Edited By Capt Kremen on 27/12/2020 19:03:11
  15. Maybe of interest, here are some pics of an electric control line model. This was recreated from details published in the March 1949 Aeromodeller magazine. This replica was powered from 10 NiCad cells held on the trouser belt! Current was fed 'down-the-lines' to drive a MFA Speed 400 belt drive unit. I took this model to a vintage/old-timer meeting in the States and it was flown by Hal 'Happy' De Bolt the famous pioneer of modelling.
  16. Here is my replica Graupner Silentius model. It was constructed from an original plan obtained from the German Vintage Model Association, (akin to UK SAM35). The original Graupner/Faulhaber geared motor was fitted though it ran off 50mAh NiCad cells of the time (1990). I had the great pleasure of chatting with the late, great Ron Moulton who kindly gave me several original Salt-Water activated battery cells and an original Graupner Silentius prop assembly. These had been subject of testing (Aeromodeller?) when the kit was originally issued circa 1961. A very rough foam free flight model called the 'Electra' was produced at a similar time in America. This also used the salt water cells. I still have an unbuilt 'Electra' kit. My 'Silentius' model flew superbly and despite the fuse thermaliser, flew high then away towards some woods never to be found alas. In 1986, Graupner brought out another called 'Silentius '86', this was for R/C though and ran on 7-8 NiCad cells, driving the common Mabuchi 550 geared motor (Graupner Jumo 550) with its plastic folding prop assembly. This model fortunately still survives and with today's LiPo cells flies better than ever!
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