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Capt Kremen

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Everything posted by Capt Kremen

  1. What is the word on the street as to the current best buy in available FPV goggles for a newbie to FPV (but not model flying) in 2021? I appreciate price as ever can be a big factor. I have a 'ZOHD Drift', their KoPilot unit with a VC400 camera on its way (I hope, a fast boat from PRC!) Would like video record facility and a good operating duration but nothing too complex. Just dipping my toe(?) into FPV to see if I like it ... and ...of course when we eventually are set free to go out and play again!
  2. Sorry for your loss David. As Matty points out, providing stored at a correct balanced 'storage' charge state, in a suitable insulated container, little chance of combustion. Think about all our model shops and all their stock including dozens of LiPo just hanging on display in their packets on the wall in many (most?) instances. Their insurers wouldn't cover them if there was a high probability they'd go off while just sat there. How many model shop fires due to LiPo have there been, not counting any mis-managed charging or discharging instances?
  3. Our full-size airline aviation folk, keep their skills honed, and of course legal, by regular sessions in the Sim. Feeling I needed a similar refresher after the weeks/months 'grounded', I dug out my Phoenix flight sim to brush up and hopefully improve the rusty stick movements. I'm disappointed, the various models tried, including those I have examples of in my R/C fleet, really don't feel or respond much like the real thing. Yes, I know you can tweak the weather and play with rates, expo etc. but I still don't find the experience very realistic. I would very much like to try a few aerobatic manoeuvres currently not in my repertoire but feel I may be wasting my time as any experience will not directly transfer realistically once we are allowed out again. How do others feel? Would splashing out on 'Real Flight No.##' or other new flight sim make a huge difference?
  4. 'Mainly Planes & Trains' in Gosport/Portsmouth long since a casualty of recent times.
  5. Bit late for me now, [ I'd wake the 'aerodrome manager' if I did ?] , will scan tomorrow. Assume you can still PM me with an e-mail to send it to using this new site(?) Super plane, I prefer it to the '4' (Is that model heresy?)
  6. Just received the mouthful that is the new CAA Operator Number. Went to update the BMFA Membership details, seems it will not permit this yet until current expires (21/02/21). Argh well .... time to get a new cartridge in the Dymo, it will need it for all the new 19 characters long labels needing printing!
  7. Thanks Frank. I had a brain cell 'Brown Out' re Lipo v LiFe but it's still a wonderous battery chemistry that needs tender love & care to reward us after resting a while.
  8. Given we are all biding our time until released to fly again and the recent discussion(s) about LiPo storage, what about our currently dormant LiPo 'stored' in our Tx? Many, if not most Tx feature LiPo, either as removeable packs or physically solder/welded into the set e.g. Multiplex 'Cockpit'. Whilst I've never, (touch wood), had any issues with such LiPo Tx installations, charge state has varied from near full, (after an abandoned flying session), to near empty, (long flying session). Add to which I keep all my Tx in the dry within the house. What do others do with their LiPo fitted Tx? I'm guessing it is not critical or we would be advised or incidents highlight. A current LiPo in a Tx is now several years into use and still holding up well in performance. Curious to know though others thoughts though.
  9. Thanks Gordon. Often the simplest and easiest cures are the best. (Incidentally, you are part responsible for my early ventures into proportional R/C. Whilst serving in a 'Blue Suit', I recall West Drayton sports field and the 'Fly Baby', 'Turbulent' etc. Then Bldg 123 gym hall for indoor flying. Spent the rest of my civvy working career there too. Happy days, many thanks).
  10. Assuming storage outside in a shed, garage, etc., a greenhouse max/min thermometer will give you a rough idea of the extremes of temperature your precious LiPo have experienced. You can then decide if heating or insulation from extreme heat e.g. in summer, is required. Plastic clip lid 'pencil' boxes from pound-shops then stored in Ammo box has worked for me. Touch wood, no serious issues and good LiPo longevity.
  11. See BBC iPlayer for BBC Wales Programme 'X-Ray' - Drone article starts at approx. 23.40 mark. Typical media presentation and rather amateurish IMHO (see 'Scot Squad' for similar but spoof comic style!)
  12. Would this low-wing design 'Dragon Fly' by C K Williams from 1938 'Flying Aces' fit the bill? (I recall an Aeromodeller plan design not dissimilar which was enlarged by the late great modeller Arthur Fox to 84" span for R/C called 'Something??' Müeller'(?) it was published in 'RCME' and featured on the cover if distant memory serves correct.
  13. This is a two part issue regarding securing a prop and spinner to an electric motor. Example Motor : Ripmax 'Quantum 40' fitted with supplied prop mount i.e. prop mount is bolted to motor and motor shaft protrudes unused the other end. Issue 1: The prop mount has a small but noticeable curve where it changes from the threaded spindle to the bolted on flat back. If you attempt to fit a aluminium back-plated spinner, it will not sit flush with the prop mount back. Typical 'APC E' props are relieved at the back allowing direct (no spinner) attachment flush. Suggestions for how to avoid this issue. (I do not have access to a lathe to remove the offending 'curve'. Issue 2: Having fitted a spinner and prop with a nice close gap between the backplate and model nose section, how to sufficiently tighten the prop nut? The backplate rotates and slips before sufficient torque can be applied to secure the whole assembly. I wondered whether creating a thin metal tool, similar to a bicycle bottom crank spanner, might be inserted to purchase on the 'half moon' indentation on the prop mount(?) Neither of these issues are 'show-stoppers' but I'm curious, others must surely have noticed and encountered similar. (Yes, I do use better quality motors and prop drivers too that do not suffer from such irritants) Your ideas welcome. Thanks in advance. Rough Diagram, (Not to Scale), attached: Edited By Capt Kremen on 01/02/2021 16:45:24
  14. The answer to this and many other queries were given in the most recent BMFA Zoom presentation. I'm sure Andy Symons will jump in here soon. If you paid the BMFA with your subs renewal and not the CAA, BMFA will bulk upload renewals very soon (early Feb I think mentioned?) and CAA will issue your bright shiny new format OP number shortly after that. If you deal with the CAA direct, yes you have to pay but why when BMFA can do it for you.
  15. Was in a similar position when my Canon decided to throw a 'wobbly' and not print. Looking online for reviews seems fraught and decidedly dodgy as 'you name it brand/model' either won printer of the year or had the worst reviews and the most expensive ink you could buy! Have used after market 'chipped' ink cartridges without issues but huge savings over Canon's ridiculous prices. The only comment re ink that sometimes occurs, if printing photos some brands can fade over time (and I mean years). I suppose the Canon shouldn't be as prone to that. Looking at the sheer range and number of printer models out there of all makes, (not counting commercial/office standard heavy duty ones), it's no wonder finding a good one for home and general use is difficult. Oh my Canon ... I eventually fixed it myself with a bit of shaking, cleaning rollers, ribbons etc.
  16. Several of us in my club have gone with the Radiomaster TX16S for various reasons. We have a mixture of HiTec, Spektrum and Multiplex users, the TX16S supplements those brands. Hitec, Spektrum - The TX16s can operate their Rxs as well as Orange DSMX and many other protocols including FrSky. Price is very competitive too. Quality control, seemingly no worse than HiTec or Spektrum. Multiplex: Not withstanding the likely price hikes for importing from Germany now, how long will MPX be able to stay in the radio & model market given conditions, competition etc. etc???? OpenTx are working on the MPX protocol too apparently. As others have said you can go as deeply, (or not!), as you wish into 'OpenTx'. Personally, I've been very impressed by its flexibility and how you can tailor it to your preferences. At the price, the TX16S is a bargain and why pay double, triple or more for a.n.other brand that has the same or similar spec only to replace that in a year or two because it's obsolete or no longer supported etc.
  17. Whilst adhering to the principle of not extending ESC to battery in most models, I think there must be a modest degree of latitude. For example, buy several LiPo, each one from different suppliers/makes. Rarely if ever are the LiPo to LiPo plug wire length exactly the same. Therefore the ESC to LiPo lead length will vary depending on which brand of LiPo is used. Some Lipo wires are quite long, others barely long enough to flex!
  18. Perhaps the professional instructors/teachers/lecturers among us will confirm, but I have always understood that maximum concentration can only be maintained for comparatively short periods of time. This time will vary according to age. After this period, intense attention and mental focus wanders, not what is required when carrying out any potentially safety critical activity e.g. driving a car, flying a plane - full or model size! If people of any age choose not to take up model flying in the numbers of previous years, 'we' established participants are not going to be able force or make them do so against their will. Others on this and the other thread have made all the valid reasons why the hobby is where it is. Enjoy it, if we get a few new recruits great.
  19. I'm currently working on a CNC 6mm Ply wood tray for a transmitter. (By the way, the kit arrived from a German 'cottage industry' dealer, within a week of ordering and no additional charges now we are not in!). In the past, I've used traditional sanding sealer on wood, (balsa and ply), prior to painting. This time I thought I'd try DeLuxe Materials 'Sand n Seal' as it seems more socially acceptable i.e. I can apply it indoors, without the 'pear drops' smell of sanding sealer and brushes easily cleaned in water. Anybody used this product? How many light coats did you apply to fill the grain? When painted, happy with the results?
  20. May I suggest a quick search of online YouTube will reveal numerous video describing and actually demonstrating 'SuperGlues' in use plus a host of other adhesives. e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GclDHznTrsk&feature=emb_logo Also look at 'DeLuxe Materials' website, they have numerous guides and descriptions of their excellent wide range. (Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with any particular company!). A word of caution, dare I say if you are a 'senior' modeller. 'SuperGlues' release fumes which can cause irritation and other not very nice effects if inhaled. You may find oderless varieties more acceptable or else use the glue in a very well ventilated area.
  21. I bought a box full, (probably my lifetime supply!), of stick on weights off the 'bay' for not much more (£8.50) than a small model shop packet would cost!
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