Brian Dorricott 1

It needs glueing in , ask me how I know ! I didn't and it came loose in the air , I used UHU POR just a smear . It does look secure when pushed into the slot but it isn't .

Thank you Denis that makes sense otherwise you would never be able to trim it properly.

I have a AR636a rescued from a burnt out Radian XL that I have reprogrammed for use on a cheap Chinese flying wing . The setups gone ok everything moves the correct way even the stabilisation . The 2 questions I have relate to the stabilisation part I have no idea what to set the rate gains on a flying wing , I have it on a 3 position switch with up being off and then choice of 2 settings . I don't want heading hold just looking for a starting setting on rates and priority ? Second as you have no effective yaw control what do set the yaw rates as ? I would have thought zero as I'm only using elevons . Anyone been here and got any pointers as to a good setup ? Just for information I did it all wrong initially , the transmitter is not set up for Elevons just normal fixed wing and everything is set on the receiver including trims . So how do set trims if it's wildly out on maiden flight ?

Back up but still clunky as though it was hosted on some old laptop . Still need to address the issue when you try and select UK only it still gives you global and euro after a long delay . The programmer who wrote this pony and trap would have been fired at my company and found himself working at MacDonalds .

Tony For info only all electric planes should have the ESC /motor calibrated against the TX so they both know where max and min are , I once looked at a down on power motor thinking of changing it when bingo I calibrated the ESC and got the power back . As for the flaps on a Bix 2 they are hinged but you need to cut the foam to free them if you want to use them and there are cutouts in the foam for 9g servos with blanks in . As said they are not needed if I can't land mine within 6 feet of myself without flaps then I think I'm getting old. Hope this helps .

Sorry Tony forgot to mention it DOES NOT NEED FLAPS , don't know why they put provision for them not needed. If you want you can join the flaps to the ailerons for more authority but not really necessary. Go enjoy it , always take mine even on windy days.

Hi Tony I would do some basic checking i.e. swap over aileron and say elevator and see whether the ailerons then work with the elevator stick . You should be able to isolate the problem , as for the throttle take the prop off and do the throttle calibrate , full throttle on TX power up Rx and when it beeps drop to zero . Also check your TX servo direction isn't reversed . The Bixler 2 is a great machine on my second ( fire in garage ate number 1) the first had its wings glued on and the nose reglued back on twice and still flew great . Launch left handed and just flies out of your hand keep a little elevator in and it's away , love flying it into wind then reducing throttle until it just sits there in the same place then see how many circuits you can do on the field without power , magic for the price .

I can confirm the above it does the same with QX7 and S6R bit of a worry as I'm just launching my Bixler by hand but it's back on instantly , just swamping its great once it's away .

If you want balsa and space Seagulls Boomerang is a good choice either electric or IC , bags of room and a nice gentle flyer that doesn't bite but still aerobatic with the rates up . Same for Seagull E-Pioneer but thats electric only . FYI bit of a Seagull fan but bin those plastic clevises -ugh !

I think the Bix2 flies better than the Bix3 just seems easier to chuck around . Bought the Bix3 to replace the earlier 2 thinking it would die soon but it's still going but is a collection of UHU Por/Cyano/hot glue held together with foam. Wing fitting better on the 3 but glued the 2s wing in permently. On a 3S 2200 with a bit of gliding will stay aloft way past my boredom threshold.

Glad someone else noticed page 42 before and after pictures I was doubting my sanity thinking what's the difference . We' ll blame it on the handover , is the new editor from one of the defunct titles from last year the name and face looked familiar .

I like the look at the Czech Aero 145 and no one else would have one down the field ! Go on admit it we all like " one upmanship " or call it originality if you like . As a relative beginner (2 years) I remember way back everything looked the same to me i.e. high wing monoplanes all looking similar and didn't grab me enough to take it up , I thought a few years ago such diversity I'll give it go and now we all seem to go for the same types over and over again . Is it function over form or do we just like what flies well ? I like the idea of modelling something out of the box ( don't mean ARTF ) even if it's not a great flyer at least we are not stagnating with designs . I admire the guys who take pictures and measurements and turn out a plan for a model of something out of the ordinary , wish I had the ability ! Hey you designers keep it up give all a bit of diversity .

Yes if you mean simple mode but will go in and out using the LUA script .

Sorry forgot to mention when I do the calibration I can't get it go from toggling the switch 3 times which is strange but the switches are set up correctly .

Thanks for reply Denis , not pre-owned but I thought I might bite the bullet and make myself familiar with fiddly setup procedure and tried it using 4 servos on a piece of balsa rather than a plane . It setup after watching the Painless360 video for the nth time as a standard fixed wing , switched on and off and changed the gain on a pot ok and corrected the right way . It occured to me that I had a 28% bigger Delta built from RCME plan last year that I don't fly because I'm a little intimidated by it so thought the stabilization function may help , it all seemed to go wrong after this . Strange the way it works fine without stabilization but as soon as you enable it goes belly up . Used the same procedure on S6R and worked fine , bit sad now because I have some X6Rs which because of the close price difference I wish I'd bought S6Rs ! It's not the end of the world if I can't fix it might just use it unstabalized in my Bixler which is mainly UHU Por and Cyano held together with foam and doesn't owe me anything .

Wonder if anyone can help ? I have s8r that I can program as a normal non stab. plane and it works fine all servos work ok . When I run the lua script as soon as I enable stab. one servo jitters and when I try the controls only one of the servos work . I have flashed the receiver with the latest firmware and the QX7 with latest . All the other bits are correct I.e. Ch 9/10/12 setup correctly , I have an S6R which works perfectly so I know how it should work. As soon as I enable simple or complex stab. mode I lose all but the elevator servo . I did have it working once with stabalisation but I changed it to Delta and the above happened , changed it back to normal but it does not respond . Anyone got any good ideas or should I just use it as 8 channel or bin it ?

Side thrust not required flies like a dream but I did put a lid on battery compartment , made a lip using ply to push one end under and a couple of self tappers with a bit of brass soldered into the slot to make thumb screws ?. Came down once unscrewed the lid and the velcro had let go but the battery stayed put . It's had a battery fall out hence the lid , and a mid air crash and was repaired easily both times . Only other mod was to lock the steered wheel straight ahead and junk the servo , just use the rudder once you have speed up on ground . Trained on it and passed my A test with it and still get it out when I can't be bothered getting the glow fuel out ! Would recommend to anyone as a trainer over any foamy , only bettered by a Seagull Boomerang with a 4 stroke but that's another story .   Edited By Brian Dorricott 1 on 30/05/2019 18:55:32

Anyone any info on this ARTF I know it's 61in wingspan for 60-90 glow and takes 5 servos but after that not much to go on . What size petrol engine would it take ? any ideas on CG and throws what servos to buy ? Too much to hope someone has a manual to copy? Anyone remember flying one and what were they like to fly . You have probably guessed it's a swap meet purchase less manual .

Think I might go up an inch or so reduce the revs but keep the pitch and with a 14x6 I can trim the runway grass as well ! Ken Tulloch is the Wots Wot overpowered with the 82 ? Just wondered because the Acrowot looks on a paper a little overpowered I think a 62 would have been ample .

Thanks Jon I know you speak from a strong experience position so 8 minutes is fine for me a post A test flyer getting used to IC , anymore and I get bored after 7/8 minutes but that's probably attention span as you get older . Was worried in the Saito run in instructions with it very rich that it only did 5 minutes but have leaned it out a bit after 25 minutes rich running to something a little more economical . A Saito FA82b in a ARTF Acrowot can't see me needing full throttle that much ! I have a Saito FA62 in a Boomerang and I rarely use much above half throttle even for takeoff ! Power is nice because you have a throttle and I could remap my transmitter on my Boomerang to use only 1/2 throttle and still have great fun . Jon maybe I should look out for one of your Lasers next time I'm in the market forces four stroke ?

anyone any idea how much fuel a Saito 82b 4 stroke gets through per minute with a 12x6 prop on a Acrowot ARTF , maybe a bit specific but any idea ? . The Acrowot has a 270cc tank and on the running in when very rich it only did 5 minutes or so , better when leaned out but does not seem very economical , do I need a bigger tank for 10 minutes plus flights ? If bigger tank needed what did you get to fit ? I also have a bit of a struggle to get tickover down to 2400 is that due to the prop being a bit small at 12x6 ? Or will a 13x6 be a bit better at tickover as it's the smallest recommended in the 82b range ?

I have a little problem with a new Boomerang trainer , it's built taildragger but the supplied tail wheel cannot be fitted as suggested because you can't bend the tube once the rudder is installed . I made my own which is slightly lower than the original but functional and all works well . The problem is that the stabiliser is quite close to the ground on our roughish field and in 2 flights have produced 2 punctures in the covering underneath. The question is what to cover it with ? Clear tape or should I try some of the textured type covering which is more puncture resistant ? Anyone had a similar problem and a good solution , I don't want to increase clearance as it takes off like a good un in a nice straight easily controlled fashion but everytime I clean off the Saito gunk I seem to have another hole . I have solartrim in different colours is that more puncture resistant maybe ? Maybe we should have a FOD walk on field because the public use it and dog walkers but their debris is little softer and nastier . As useful any help appreciated .

Where did that A come from ? Richard looked it up OS GGT10 uses the G5 glow plug , good enough for OS good enough for me .

Richard. A. Try the OS G5 plug and dispense with the battery/ ign pack and spark plug. Got one on my NGH 9cc runs well on the ground but not maidened yet . Replace spark plug with OS petrol G5 glow and start like a like glow and I didn't even have to tune the needles ! Its basically what OS have done for their 10cc petrol 2 stroke can't remember model number !

Alex Nicol you have inspired me and I did collect all the big bits and I used to like jigsaws as a kid so you might be on to something there , sounds like a plan ! Think I'll clear the dining table and see what we have got , I'm a fan of using a bit of thin cyano as a stiffening agent just have to watch where it goes . Only thing I have ever glassed is a wing joiner is it the same procedure ? While that's going on better put the SC46 on the test bed and find why I got deadsticks in the first place ! Cheers all for answers glad I didn't send it to the tip now !