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Paul james 8

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  1. I have a Flair Bristol F2b that I bought part built. My current job is fitting the interplane struts. With the top wing attached at the cabane struts the rear wooden struts fitted well at the length suggested on the plan. I'm now looking to make the front struts but the leading edge of the top wing seems too low. Looking from the end the lower wing seems to have around the incidence I would expect (governed by all the meccano hanging off the bottom of the fuselage) but the top wing seems to have a fair bit less incidence, which would require the front struts to be a fair bit shorter than the plan. When I mention plans I don't have all of them, just the part that has been cut out and glued to the sample struts by the previous owner. Before I go any further is anyone out there able to advise on some reference dimensions from their plans or finished model? Perhaps I need to extend the front cabane struts a bit to lift the leading edge of the top wing and then make up the front 4 struts to suit? I'd be interested to hear what the dimensions you might have for the height from the centre of the leading edges of the wings and the same for the trailing edges. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to get the model ready to fly at the Flair meeting on 6th August if possible.
  2. Agree with everything that Jon has said but I still collect the older engines and have facilities to make replacement parts. I do this as part of my hobby, not as a business. Please get in touch if you have any older ones that you can't use as I could be interested, if not to rebuild then possibly for spare parts.
  3. Paul james 8

    RCV58CD

    The cylinder wasn't tight in mine, I was referring to comments made by others. I can see now that it wasn't the cylinder that was tight in those instances but the cylinder bearing. Having stripped and rebuilt mine I'm pretty convinced that the timing was out. The exhaust outlet pipe was running blue with excess heat, I polished it up and now it is just a light straw colour. I did contact the Weston folks but the guy I needed to speak with was away for a few days so I just got on with investigating it. The internals were in top shape so that was reassuring.???
  4. Paul james 8

    RCV58CD

    I messed around for ages trying to set the engine up it got got, wouldn't rev and wouldn't tick over so I eventually decided to bite the bullet and strip it down. This was a brand new engine when I got it and had never seen fuel. The internals all looked fine so I carefully reassembled it making sure that the timing was spot on. Put it in my test stand and fired it up and soon had it running sweet. I then had to put it back in the model inverted so hoped that it would still be fine. Took the model to the field yesterday and fired it up, gave it some final adjustments and it was great! Due to a strong cross wind I didn't maiden the plane but did taxiing trials successfully. I'm tending to think that the timing may have been one tooth out, the way it ran was typical of bad timing. They are easy enough to work on so it would be interesting to see if anyone else who is having problems can cure them by setting up the timing correctly.
  5. Paul james 8

    RCV58CD

    Interesting thread which I chanced upon when looking for info on my own RCV58CD. I'm surprised that the cylinder is found to be a tight fit in the upper casting, it has to turn freely as the piston goes up and down. Was it perhaps the bearing being tight that required the force to get it apart? As for the comments about removing bearing seals/shields once the outer part is removed the part sitting on the balls is the "cage" and needs to be left on situ to space the balls. Some bearings don't have these and are known as "crowded" for obvious reasons. The latter aren't used in model engine applications to my knowledge. The issue with my engine is bad running, it was new when I got it so I ran a good amount of Weston Prosynth 2000 10% through it to run it in. The problem is that it just won't run right. I can set it so that it peaks with the top end needle just over 1 turn out, I can then get a reasonable tickover (not sure of exact speeds as my tacho isn't working properly) . I can drop it down slowly from high revs to tickover with good transition but as soon as I start to open it up again it splutters and cuts out. I'm using OS FS plugs as recommended and the fuel runs fine in other engines. Compression when cold feels fine but drops off a bit when it gets hot. It does seem to run hot but won't run if the top end is richened further. Anyone got any ideas??
  6. If using the puller often as not once you have a bit of tension wound on you can shift the offending part by giving the puller a sharp tap with a hammer. As for cleaning I always use boiling water and aerial biological washing powder, cleans them up a treat. Any light surface corrosion or tarnishing I get off with scotchbrite.
  7. Posted by cymaz on 11/10/2020 12:24:08: There is a bit of chat here All handy stuff but the comments on different versions makes me still very keen to try and find the instructions. Must be in touch with my female side as apparently real blokes never read instructions. I'm having to sort a prime example of that on the current build of what was supposed to have been an unstarted kit; the previous owner glued the elevator hinges into the stab without fitting the bracing wire so I've had to dig all that apart.
  8. Posted by cymaz on 11/10/2020 11:51:35: Does this help? Some very handy info there so thanks for that. I wonder if mine is an earlier version as he refers to changes? Mine is in the red and white colour scheme that I personally prefer 😊👍
  9. Sounds like it should be fun! Got to finish off a nice Kyosho 50 Spitfire then on to the Pitts. I'd still like to find the build manual if possible so that I have the correct c of g etc. Last thing I want is for it to be tail heavy. I read somewhere that with a 120 up front it didn't need any additional weight to balance. That is always good as I hate adding lead, I'd rather put a bigger engine in.
  10. I think it will be a pretty impressive model when finished.
  11. Thanks again, sounds as though the saito 125 should be enough although the 180 might be more fun 😊😊 Did you find it prone to stalling?
  12. Posted by john stones 1 on 10/10/2020 16:05:48: Not got the manual Paul, but I recall no quirks with the model build, one of the best I ever had, cracking model. Useful feedback John so thanks for that! Did yours have servos for each aileron? I've seen photos of some that seem to have a conventional two servo set up with connecting rods to the top. I usually look through the youtube videos of the various models I'm building and they all seemed to be flying well. What was yours powered by? I've got options of Saito 125, Saito 180 or Laser 200 V twin.
  13. Posted by EarlyBird on 10/10/2020 14:30:36: Here? Different model manufacturer I'm afraid but thanks anyway
  14. Not sure if this is the correct forum, please advise if not. Having recently bought an unstarted kit of this model I'm looking for a copy of the manual. I can work out most of it obviously but just in case there are any quirky bits.... If anyone has a copy I could borrow or they could scan to PDF it would be much appreciated. Cheers, Paul
  15. Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 01/09/2020 14:55:54: Quite right Paul, although you are assuming an airtight crankcase and they arent. We tested running for many hours with the breather closed and there were no negative effects on the engine in terms of its operation. Long term however i suspect that its better to vent the crankcase to try and expel some of the nasties that can accumulate down there. There was also a tendency for the front bearing seal to blow out and then the engine just made a mess! An ideal solution would be a short pipe to a catch tank that can be drained after the flight, but its a bit of a faff. ED is also quite right when he says that with modern thin oils, and with low oil fuel, the whole conversation is becoming less and less relevant. Interesting re. crankcases not being airtight. I'm guessing that the likeliest place for leakage is the front bearing which, as you say can end up with the seals blowing out, just goes to show how much positive pressure can build up. I'm sure that it is possible to run engines without crankcase breathers (I've a fair few OS without) but can't see that having a breather is ever going to be detrimental. As you mention; as far as mess is concerned the more modern fuels with lower viscosity oil and lower oil content should run cleaner but I like the idea of having the venting so the oil can move around and replenish as well as possible.
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