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Richard Ashworth

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Everything posted by Richard Ashworth

  1. I did a DB S&S Barnstormer 63 two years ago. Not a difficult build but still ‘fondly’ remember the 33 bits of balsa that went into the built up tailplane! I Electrified it, reduced the dihedral (as per instructions) by 50% and added ailerons across the 4 outer bays in each wing. Very stable, flys smoothly on 1/3 throttle (200W), loops effortlessly on 450W. At 100ft, get the power right, two clicks of aileron and you can put the tx down and have a drink watching it gently fly around in 200ft circles. On a light wind day you can choose which wheel to land it on! Enjoy the build and flying it, it’s sturdy and has presence.
  2. I think I am getting there with understanding RID but can anyone suggest what will be the consequences re the following. I live north west of Leeds literally 300m within the Leeds Bradford airport FRZ and fly fixed wing at the North Leeds MFC BMFA registered site.. If RID happens what’s the situation re setting up a model at home with RID at some stage built into the Rx? Could someone picking up the signal report me for flying in my garage, or God forbid the TX/RX just not work if Geofencing also happens? So far a lot of the discussion is about swapping modules at flying site but none of us (that I know of) build or do initial setting up there.
  3. And just remember that on connectors, all metal that will remain visible after the male and female are plugged together, should be insulated with heat shrink tubing! With bullet connectors after I have the motor rotating the right way, standard anticlockwise, I put small wraps of red or green insulation tape on two of the the leads either side of the connectors so that if I need to take the electrics apart they are colour coded for quick reassembly.
  4. Also watching, thank you. Not into warbirds but have now built four increasingly difficult electric sport plane flat pack kits (all self designed electric conversions!) with a fifth, Elan 100, part built. I follow most build blogs on the site and like most forumites have learnt and taken ideas from them all.
  5. For small 10 mm standoffs I would use 8, (double thickness) 1cm square 5mm ply plates as washers. Mark them out and drilling them before cutting makes them much easier to handle.
  6. I haven’t got one but I think the Fusion 2 is machine with big control surfaces primarily designed for extreme aerobatics but with VERY turned down throws can fly sedately. It’s a machine for fun flying after you master a Wot 4. Talking of which, before you get to either an ARTF or kit Wot4 and definitely before an Acrowot I would recommend you consider a Wot 4 Foam e. £140 including motor, ESC and servos. Repairable with brown Gorilla glue and cocktail sticks and flying on “cheap” 3S 2200 Lipos and a 4 channel receiver. You could have it flying in 2 hrs and it would not be too expensive a loss should the inevitable happen. (I killed 2 in my first 12 months, one dumb thumbs one by not properly fastening the wing on!).
  7. I have both an ARTF and a Foss kit Wot4, not the Foss Classic but the Mk3 tapered wing. The kit 4 is relatively new (bought half as a make project during Covid) and I have only flown it 3 times but first impression was that it was a slightly nicer plane to fly and thats saying a lot as I really like the ARTF 4. As regards the two planes, the ARTF 4 with the electric pack goes together very easily and will have you flying it within days. The kit 4 can be converted to electric two ways, the underneath hatch method which I decided against or by replicating the ARTF by making a hatch between the front of the wing and the cowl and a tray inside similar to the ARTF 4. The top hatch method has the advantage of easy access to insert and remove the battery and connect / disconnect the battery / ESC (no turning the plane upside down). Whichever way you make the kit it will take at least a month (me two) but the end product is your creation. I decided to, other than the hatch, make it exactly as per the instruction book, tail skid and closed loop wires on the rudder with as per book connection to the rudder servo. I am not sure what others have done but rather than standard size servos, the veneered foam wings have cutouts for 17G standard micro servos and I decided that Hitec HS82MG servos would be man enough and went with them. They are probably a lot more powerful than the original single servo setups in Wot4s and I don’t intend trying 3D with it. In summary, if you want it flying soon ARTF, if you like building, Foss kit.
  8. I’ve used about 20 Hitec standard size servos over the last 5 years and had 100% reliability. The HS325 should be fine on both planes.
  9. I don’t fly hooligan and get about 10mins out of the 4S 4250 with about 25% left in the battery. (They very rarely get warm as I fly happily at 60% throttle) The Acrobat comes in at about 6lbs. I am led to believe that 100w per lb (general sport flying) gives reasonable performance so at 45amps on a 15V battery it calculates as 675Watts which is 112Watts per lb. You are right about trying to get a 5S battery in. I have opened up the mid battery former to take a battery the width of the battery sled and 44mm high. I don’t think you would get anything higher than 44mm in easily.
  10. It’s not the fastest Acrowot but I fly an electric one with the Quantum 55, 13x8 APC electric prop on a 4S 4250 lipo on a 80Amp ESC. It pulls on the ground at full throttle 45amps on a fresh battery and takes off fine and will quite happily do moderately large loops. If you already have 4S batteries you may want to start off with this combo more cheaply than buying 5S batteries, if it is too tame then you can easily go to 5S.
  11. Anyone else having trouble downloading the Competency Certificate proof from an iPad? Downloaded after doing the test (not 100% but enough) and stored on Books, Pages and Adobe but none seem to like the format (or length of name?) and can be uploaded to the BMFA site for proof. Thanks Richard
  12. Hi Chris. There is a spektrum equivalent to the Lemon LM0052 receiver, the AR6610T, DSMX + Telemetry. It’s in stock at on line Hobby shops at about £54, you would also need a SPMA9570A lead £9 to go between the receiver and the ESC/connector lead, a bit of soldering needed. The AR630 you have receives signal and does stabilisation, the AR6610T receives and does telemetry. I don’t think there is a 6 channel receiver that does all 3 that I can find. Unfortunately the AR410 doesn’t seem to have a telemetry equipped variant. I have flight battery voltage only in one plane, a thermal glider where time in the air and battery usage can vary considerably but for all my other planes I use a LIPO tester before each flight (to make sure I am putting a charged battery in) and at the end of each flight, to check battery charge remaining and cross reference the safe flying time for each model/battery then set a warning timer for the time I expect the battery to be down to 30% charge so that I have time for a couple of approaches and a landing. Using that procedure either a AR410 or AR610 (or older equivalents) is all I have needed and find them invaluable for monitoring signal frame blips (yet to have a signal loss, fingers crossed!) In any case it is worth having a battery tester to check your battery before every flight. Sorry if I am “teaching you to suck eggs” but losing a model unnecessarily isn’t fun! Richard A
  13. As I understand it any stick trim settings put in on the slave tx come across IN ADDITION to the settings on the master I thought the slave setup should be a basic setup with no trims. As mixes, and switch settings are always as set on the master it makes sense to have ALL settings on it. The base setup on the slave can then be used against any planes settings on the Master, you don’t need multiple slave planes set up on the Tx used as a slave. Edited By Richard Ashworth on 12/10/2020 09:00:29 Edited By Richard Ashworth on 12/10/2020 09:01:43
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