EvilC57

Joining wings where there's a large epoxy joint is my problem. Beasuse I know there's only one chance to get it right before the epoxy goes off. I'm always careful to get everything ready, and pre-check alignments, availability of tools, clean up tissue, solvent etc.. But I always have a fear that as soon as I've mixed up the large amount of epoxy required there'll be someone at the front door, or the phone will ring!

Yep, I’d say as close to the fus as possible. I certainly wouldn’t do this…!

Four times a second according to the Speed Flea website.

Reminds me of the story I heard when I worked in hi-fi retail (as a junior bench engineer) back in the mid 1970s. One of the salesmen told us of a customer he’d had on the phone who was keen to buy a particular pair of speakers, but wanted to listen to them first. Once he’d established the shop had them in stock, he asked whether the salesman could play them down the phone to him before he went to the trouble of making the journey.

Thanks Keith, hadn’t seen those before. They look like they might be the answer to the bed drift problems on my Ender 3 V2. I have the supposedly upgraded yellow springs which were OK for a while, but I suspect may be the cause of my recent levelling problems. I’ll get some on order…

Not with an RCV!

My Ender 3 V2 has done sterling service over the 2+ years that I’ve had it. Getting a little fed up with having to do frequent manual checks on the bed levelling, which drifts sometimes. I’ll live with it for now, but I know I’m going to be tempted by a Bambu P1P or P1S and their auto bed levelling (and other refinements) sooner or later.

3D printing is a whole science in itelf.

Yes I’ve heard about that. Some issue with potential damage to the heated bed power cable isn’t it?

Creality Ender 3 series are a popular starting point. Not expensive, easy to get parts for, and compatible with most common slicer software. Or for a bit more money, the newer Bambu Labs A1 is well reviewed.

Reminds me of the (probably apocryphal) tale of the American tourist overheard complaining about how far they’d put Stonehenge from the visitors centre 🤪.

I find that IPA (isopropyl alcohol) takes shrink covering adhesive marks off.

Yes, I’m familiar with that page. The graphic on the page regarding the variables of temperature, speed and flow, and how they all interact is interesting and always worth bearing in mind when printing.

Strange that your LW-PLA parts are coming out heavier bbuzz. Mine with ColorFabb LW came out the same or lighter than suggested for each part in the instructions. Like you, I was careful to spend time setting up the profiles as per Planeprint’s instructions. However I also did a series of test prints, and established that with my Ender 3 V2 I got the best expansion at about 230°C (can’t remember the other parameters now without looking them up). I’ve subsequently built a second Jetwing encompassing all my suggested strengthening changes, but with winter weather etc. it hasn’t flown yet.

I agree with you regarding Amazon. I try to avoid if possible, and prefer eBay for general (non modelling) goods. However most of my lipos are Turnigy Nanotechs from HobbyKing, and all have proved excellent over the years - and at a fraction of the price of some UK based options. As for not buying from AliExpress or Banggood, it’s all very well standing by your principles, but you’re doing yourself out of bargains (such as cheaper FMS and Powerfun EDFs as suggested by F57) the rest of us are getting. Still, each to his own. I have a Tarot gimbal from Banggood which has been very good, and certainly not overpriced crap - far from it in fact. I’ve also bought an number of brushless motors from AE and BG, all of which have been perfectly serviceable.

Ditto.

Waited 6 minutes and 20 seconds for something a little different to happen, and it didn’t. Can I have my 6 minutes back please!

This is very topical for me at the moment. I have a 10 year old DX8 Gen 1, which although still working perfectly, is full (i.e. 29 of the 30 model memories are in use). So two weeks ago I gave in to temptation and bought an NX10. So far I can opine as follows, in no particular order: The colour LCD is nice, although not particularly high definition, nor any bigger than the old one in the DX8. I don’t think the display is as fast to react to the scroll wheel as the old DX8 with conventional LCD, which has caused me to overshoot and choose the wrong menu item several times. In fact overall I’d say the old DX8 scroll wheel & menu are a bit nicer to use. The programmable audio events (voice messages) seem a useful addition, particularly the spoken count down times. I particularly like the configurable switches, which allow you to assign functions to any switch of your choosing - which as far as I know I couldn’t do with the DX8. The ability to bind to a receiver from within the menu without having to cycle the power while holding down the Bind button is useful. The pre flight setup checklist seems a bit limited, and as far as I can tell can’t be sorted alphabetically, which makes it hard to find things. Several things I’ve wanted are not there, and I’m not aware that there’s any way of adding your own items (I stand to be corrected on this). The Bind/Engine Kill button although larger, seems more of a reach for my little hands than the old one. I like the addition of the centre tone facility, which I’ve enabled for the throttle control. A useful indication of when you’re at half throttle, without having to look down at the box while you’re flying. The manual is rubbish. I guess with 10 years of development you get more bells & whistles. Could I have just carried on with the old Tx? Yes. Am I glad I bought the new one? At the moment, also yes.

That’s why between flights I always prop my transmitter up against my flight box or somewhere else convenient, facing AWAY from the sun. Lesson learned a number of years ago when I went to pick the Tx up, and noticed that the LCD had completely blacked out where the sun had been shining on it.

Have you found any problems caused by power up glitches KB? I’ve had a Speed Flea 64 for several years now, and I’ve learned that I have to power the model up first, and then attach the the Speed Flea afterwards, and wait for it to initialise. Otherwise (I’m guessing) the electrical spike in the system caused by powering up the ESC afterwards can cause the Flea to malfunction. I have had flights were the unit has failed to register properly despite appearing to boot up correctly, and in each case it’s where I’ve forgotten to power the model up first. Other than that and the display which is impossible to read in sunlight, it’s a great little device.

+1 for the Speed Flea.