EvilC57

Can’t say i entirely agree. That approach is OK once you have a basic grounding in F360 (or whatever), and know how to work your way around it. But faced with just a blank grid and XYZ plane markers on first entering Fusion, I thought ‘what do I do here?’. Sometimes (as someone more or less once said), you don’t know what you don’t know. I knew nothing of the concept of drawing a 2D sketch, and Extruding it to make a 3D object when initially faced with the F360 interface.

Yes that’s the course I’ve been using. Maybe it’s an age thing, but I find I have to watch a bit, then pause it and Alt-Tab to F360 while I try what he’s just taught for myself, before continuing a bit further through the video.

I’ve not tried iDig3D’s PLA (I was put off using them again by their very poor communication post ordering). I haven’t tried printing with ABS yet - you have to be careful with the fumes don’t you? I've found the Ender 3 to be OK for various types of normal PLA, PLA+, LW-PLA, TPU and PETG. Although I must admit I do have a hankering for a Bambu P1 series sometime!

I have to say I’ve never had any bother printing with ColorFabb LW-PLA on my Ender 3 V2. Both the models below were printed on it. The important thing I found, was to follow ColorFabb’s instructions on their website re. dialling in the correct print parameters for your printer by printing a number of their test cubes at different temperatures and print speeds. And in the case of the Planeprint models I’ve made, to spend time setting up their recommended print profiles before you start to print.

...Or if you want a simpler, easier system that's more intuitive to learn on, Tinkercad web based 3D CAD is a good place to start. I've used it for a couple of years now, and like it. However it is limited compared with the much more powerful Fusion 360, which like Andy-H I'm playing with, but finding it a much harder learning curve.

I can’t comment on other 3D printed rc model designers (Eclipson etc.), but for Planeprint’s models there are a set of ‘profiles’ on the website for setting up Cura slicer parameters for different parts of the model. You have to spend some time entering these parameters and saving them to be recalled as required later, before you even start printing the model. The construction manual then refers to these profiles, along with the material and any unique specific settings for each part as you print it. There are also small test pieces on the website, which you should print to fine tune your printer before committing to the larger parts. I’ve found that it’s also necessary to ‘project manage’ the slicing and printing in Excel for a large project like an rc model, so that I know which bits have been printed, and which still need doing.

I used iDig3D once or twice, but I found his communication to be almost nonexistent. I think he’s a one man band. I’ve had much better service from 123-3D.co.uk when it comes to buying printer supplies.

For a couple of recent rc models from Planeprint, ColorFabb LW-PLA for most of the airframe, Sunlu PLA+ for the more highly stressed parts, Sunlu PETG for motor mounts (because it withstands high temperatures better than PLA), and ColorFabb Varioshore TPU for the tyres. For any future models intended to be used outdoors, I’d investigate ColorFabb’s LW-PLA-HT because of its better tolerance of hot weather conditions. My printer is an Ender 3 V2. But if I was starting out now, I’d probably buy a Bambu Labs A1 or P series.

Ditto. I have a Cloud Models kit version of the JPS3, which needed the rear shaft cut off the motor to stop it fouling the battery. I held the motor in the vice by one of its mounting legs, and rotated it slowly by hand so that I could get an even cut around the shaft with a Dremel cutting disc. As far as I could see, any dust came off in the form of a shower of sparks. I’ve had no problems with the motor since.

And this one!

I had exactly this problem with an aileron servo in a model a few years ago. The servo for the other aileron was OK, but one would 'bounce' back & forth if you let the TX stick spring back to the middle. It turned out to be caused by a duff servo extension lead. Changing the servo made no difference, but I changed the lead going through the wing and the problem went away.

Er, not sure that we are. But this ‘progress’ is imposed upon us by those in charge, who think they know best.

Yep, I see the new update is V4.00A.15. I shall probably wait until V4.01A.15 (or whatever their minor release increment is) before I risk it.

Well done PDB that’s sorted it. Thanks for that, I should RTFM 🙂!

I see that a series of Spektrum firmware updates landed on July 18th. Firstly, has anyone installed the latest one as a result of this for their NX10, and does all appear to be OK? I’m not asking because I’ve had a problem, but I’d just like to hear a few opinions before I rush into things. Second, I have a UK (European) spec NX10, and telemetry altitude (with a suitable receiver) displays in metres, however I noticed recently on an American YouTube video that the guy’s NX series Tx was displaying altitude in feet. Does anyone know if it’s possible to change the units of measurement in the transmitter? I’ve been all through the system setup menus on my NX10, and can’t find a way of doing it.

I have memories of having a Keil Kraft handbook with a sky blue cover with a silver coloured model on it when I was a teenager, so I suspect it must have been the one below (internet picture). I seem to remember I used to look longingly at the ‘proportional’ radio sets in it among other things - WAY beyond my means in those days. I’m not sure what happened to the book, but it would be interesting to see a copy now. I saw one on eBay a few years ago and I wish I’d taken to opportunity to buy it, but at the time I thought the price was a bit high.

I had a KK Invader when I was about 12 in 1969/70. 96p, that was about 2 weeks pocket money!

Always be very cynical about any special offers etc. that seem too good to be true, BECAUSE THEY ARE. I received the unsolicited email below a couple of days ago, and immediately reported it and moved it to my junk folder. Report suspicious emails to [email protected], which is the government cyber crime reporting email address. They can then investigate and get them stopped.

Apologies, I’ll reread the entire thread before posting next time 😜!

From this month’s Which? magazine. Topical I think…

Sounds like a couple of TVRs I had before I discovered aeromodelling (just as much fun, but far, far cheaper!). No ABS or traction control, little crash protection, no airbags, and used to aquaplane for a pastime. Sounded good though - when they weren’t broken down at the side of the road!