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Everything posted by EvilC57

  1. Strange that your LW-PLA parts are coming out heavier bbuzz. Mine with ColorFabb LW came out the same or lighter than suggested for each part in the instructions. Like you, I was careful to spend time setting up the profiles as per Planeprint’s instructions. However I also did a series of test prints, and established that with my Ender 3 V2 I got the best expansion at about 230°C (can’t remember the other parameters now without looking them up). I’ve subsequently built a second Jetwing encompassing all my suggested strengthening changes, but with winter weather etc. it hasn’t flown yet.
  2. I agree with you regarding Amazon. I try to avoid if possible, and prefer eBay for general (non modelling) goods. However most of my lipos are Turnigy Nanotechs from HobbyKing, and all have proved excellent over the years - and at a fraction of the price of some UK based options. As for not buying from AliExpress or Banggood, it’s all very well standing by your principles, but you’re doing yourself out of bargains (such as cheaper FMS and Powerfun EDFs as suggested by F57) the rest of us are getting. Still, each to his own. I have a Tarot gimbal from Banggood which has been very good, and certainly not overpriced crap - far from it in fact. I’ve also bought an number of brushless motors from AE and BG, all of which have been perfectly serviceable.
  3. Waited 6 minutes and 20 seconds for something a little different to happen, and it didn’t. Can I have my 6 minutes back please!
  4. EvilC57

    DX8 v NX8 ?

    This is very topical for me at the moment. I have a 10 year old DX8 Gen 1, which although still working perfectly, is full (i.e. 29 of the 30 model memories are in use). So two weeks ago I gave in to temptation and bought an NX10. So far I can opine as follows, in no particular order: The colour LCD is nice, although not particularly high definition, nor any bigger than the old one in the DX8. I don’t think the display is as fast to react to the scroll wheel as the old DX8 with conventional LCD, which has caused me to overshoot and choose the wrong menu item several times. In fact overall I’d say the old DX8 scroll wheel & menu are a bit nicer to use. The programmable audio events (voice messages) seem a useful addition, particularly the spoken count down times. I particularly like the configurable switches, which allow you to assign functions to any switch of your choosing - which as far as I know I couldn’t do with the DX8. The ability to bind to a receiver from within the menu without having to cycle the power while holding down the Bind button is useful. The pre flight setup checklist seems a bit limited, and as far as I can tell can’t be sorted alphabetically, which makes it hard to find things. Several things I’ve wanted are not there, and I’m not aware that there’s any way of adding your own items (I stand to be corrected on this). The Bind/Engine Kill button although larger, seems more of a reach for my little hands than the old one. I like the addition of the centre tone facility, which I’ve enabled for the throttle control. A useful indication of when you’re at half throttle, without having to look down at the box while you’re flying. The manual is rubbish. I guess with 10 years of development you get more bells & whistles. Could I have just carried on with the old Tx? Yes. Am I glad I bought the new one? At the moment, also yes.
  5. That’s why between flights I always prop my transmitter up against my flight box or somewhere else convenient, facing AWAY from the sun. Lesson learned a number of years ago when I went to pick the Tx up, and noticed that the LCD had completely blacked out where the sun had been shining on it.
  6. Have you found any problems caused by power up glitches KB? I’ve had a Speed Flea 64 for several years now, and I’ve learned that I have to power the model up first, and then attach the the Speed Flea afterwards, and wait for it to initialise. Otherwise (I’m guessing) the electrical spike in the system caused by powering up the ESC afterwards can cause the Flea to malfunction. I have had flights were the unit has failed to register properly despite appearing to boot up correctly, and in each case it’s where I’ve forgotten to power the model up first. Other than that and the display which is impossible to read in sunlight, it’s a great little device.
  7. +1 for John Norris at LogicRC, who as John Lee says are the UK distributor and main service centre for Spektrum.
  8. I agree, it’s mad! I did nearly lose track of the display a number of years ago. Fortunately that made me aware of the issue, so I’ve been careful to avoid it since. My later transmitters (DX8 and NX10) wisely don’t allow the display to blank out completely. Obviously a design issue with the earlier JR set.
  9. Sorry about that Rob. I've reloaded it in a different format. Try it now.
  10. I rest my case m’lud 🙂… IMG_6845.MP4
  11. Are you sure it’s not just the screen contrast that’s been turned down? I have an old JR transmitter on which it’s possible with the scroll wheel to inadvertently turn the LCD contrast down to the extent that it appears completely blank, when it is in fact powered up - which can make life very difficult if you don’t notice you’ve done it.
  12. The most well established hybrid system is that used by Toyota, which shares power to the wheels between a petrol engine and electric motor/generators via a planetary gearbox. Efficient, and extremely reliable as it turns out, which is why millions of Toyota Prius hybrids have been used for years all over the world as taxis.
  13. I must admit when I wrote my original reply to FB3 I couldn't remember whether APC glow props come with spacers, as it's several years since I've bought any. I know their E props come with spacers though, as I've bought them more recently.
  14. When you buy APC propellers they come with a a number of adapters of different sizes in the packet.
  15. Guild fuel proof enamel paint seems OK. I used it to paint the engine bay on a glow model (including over the heat shrink covering) a couple of years ago, and it still looks OK after a good soaking in fuel and general engine gunge. Available at Leeds Model Shop for £6.79 a tin.
  16. Yes it occurred to me after my OP that rather than saying ‘what DOES he look like’, I should have said ‘what DO they look like’. However, given the demographic of this forum I suspected this may lead (from those who know even less about this individual than BC and me) to questions regarding my use of English!
  17. Interesting. Maybe mine rolls because of my high revving prop. Not sure which is most likely to generate more torque roll; a smaller high revving one, or a larger slower revving one. With the Mega 16/15/4 and little 6x4EP, mine’s a real screamer.
  18. EvilC57


    There’s a brief discussion of Temu on Page 7 of the ‘HobbyKing coming back to the UK’ thread on this very forum. Not recommended it seems.
  19. My Pushycat has been clocked at 82mph using a Speedflea GPS maximum speed logger. One thing I would point out, is the torque roll effect that mine suffers on launch. I have to launch with my left hand while applying full left aileron with my right, otherwise the model is prone to rolling hard right and crashing before it can get enough flying speed for the flight controls to have much effect. I have established this as a result of flying it regularly (and crashing on launch several times!) since 2005. This is with a 6x4 prop. KA, do you not find this effect even more pronounced with a 9 inch prop?
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