EvilC57

This appears to be one of the so called ‘audit’ videos of a type I’ve seen on YT before. They deliberately fly over or near military, police or company installations to try and get a reaction from their security staff. They use their knowledge of drone law to try and argue their case, but it always seems a pointless and inflammatory pursuit to me.

I use the 3-way metal terminals from an electrical celing rose (see pic). Cheaper to buy than special 'dual push connectors', and more solid than using plastic terminal blocks. I then encase the whole assembly in epoxy once adjusted and tested.

A better start at least than the inside of the supposed nuclear submarine which appeared in the first series of Vigil, which resembled the inside of the Tardis. I seem to remember it received a lot of derision in the press for the ridiculous amounts of space there seemed to be for the cast to move around in.

Yep, concur with Don. Don’t use sky blue, it’ll disappear against a blue sky. Don’t use green either - why do you think fighter planes use green for camouflage?! Black, or at least wide black stripes or blocks are good for visibility on the bottom of a model, and use contrasting colours and patterns on the top & bottom. It’s very important to be able to tell top from bottom of the model at a distance.

Yes that’s fine PDB, but photos I take on my phone won’t then be available on my iPad (where they are better viewed due to the larger screen).

As far as I am aware, any photos I take with the camera on my iPhone are automatically backed up to the cloud (via my iCloud account), and I don’t have any choice in the matter. Which doesn’t really bother me, as I am also not a terrorist.

No he didn’t 🤭.

123-3D worth bearing in mind for future reference though 🙂.

I thought I'd heard of ads being setup with a ludicrous price (which obviously won’t sell) just as a placeholder, to get an item onto a website, which they intend to amend once they’ve established a proper price. Although I admit that doesn’t seem to be the case here.

Clearly an optimist!

Yes, I only discovered recently that you can do that. I wanted to print just the top 1/2 inch of a large fuelage section to check something, and didn't want to print the whole thing, which would take 9 hours and waste a load of filament if it didn't work properly.

Shame you've just reordered from iDig! I ordered two further reels of Colorfabb LW-PLA and a reel of their Varioshore TPU from a company called 123-3D, who are a larger well established company here in the UK - unfortunately I hadn't come across them at the time of my original recommendation. I had much better communication from them, indeed they sent me an email to apologise for the fact that there would be a delay in despatching the TPU, and would that be OK? I haven't got room for an enclosure around my printer either, it's on top of a small pair of filing cabinets in the corner of my office, and already overhangs slightly at the front. So as I said in my previous post, I just treat the whole room as a cabinet, and go out and close the door sometimes.

I find a brim with a width of 8 lines to be sufficient for most things. Any more just seems like a waste of filament. For tall thin things like ailerons I've found that because my printer is not enclosed in a case, any drafts or extraneous movements, particularly as the item item gets taller, can cause it to vibrate and lead to irregularities in the print. If I'm printing something tall and thin now, I leave the room and close the door (and window) until it's finished, so as not to cause any unnecessary air movements around the printer.

Unfortunately due to the position of my printer (Ender 3 V2) in a corner, it doesn't allow anywhere sensible to be able to feed filament directly from the drier, so I dry the filament 'offline' and remove it for printing. Once dried, I also keep all my rolls of filament in small filament vacuum storage bags when they're not in use.

My understanding is that if LW-PLA is retracted it effectively spends too long inside the hot end, which will cause it to continue to foam and expand, so it’ll ooze out of the nozzle anyway. I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong.

A thought about the stringing and other issues you’re having with LW-PLA. Particularly if your printer and filament were kept in a cold (damp?) workshop, could your filament be damp? It’s important to keep it dry, as this can affect the quality of prints. I proved this recently when trying to print a fuselage section for a Planeprint Notos F3A. I was getting severe stringing and layer gaps when printing with an old reel of PLA+, I then tried printing the same part with a brand new reel of the same filament (and all the same settings), and the part came out perfectly. After much research, I bought an Eibos Easdry filament drier, and having put the old filament in the drier for a few hours, I tried a test print and it came out perfectly. Another way of identifying damp filament is the fact that it goes brittle. The old PLA+ I mentioned above snapped easily if bent prior to drying, but was much more resilient afterwards.

Millenials. I thought they were supposed to be the 'green' generation 🤔.

Yep, plus another one from me.

I have to say I’ve noticed that Loctite products tend to be way overpriced when aimed at the mass market. For example, I’ve just checked on the B&Q diy.com website, where 7.5g of their ‘Precision’ superglue in a fancy blister pack is £5.36, against Screwfix’s 50g bottle which is £3.59.

I’ve wondered sometimes whether thin cyano should be classed as a chemical weapon. Given its tendency to run around and stick your fingers to the model - or each other (as has happened to me on several occasions!).

Thats why I tend to buy the smaller 20g bottles, rather than the 50g ones which go off before I can get near finishing the contents.

Yes, done all that. Doesn’t work for me as I find it’s not so much the threads that stick, it’s the very end of the tip that gets stuck up inside the end of the cap. I’ve thought about Vaseline (as Robert C says above), but never got around to trying it.