adrian garnham

Ken I have just started looking into building a model railway as well. I'm going to a local model railway club meeting tomorrow evening and my main questions will be whether to go N gauge or OO I am leaning toward N gauge as you can fit so much more in a small space.

I have a basic ender 3 and the glass plate is a straight swap. It was certainly a game changer for me with regards to part adhesion

I use this print bed on my ender 3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07QL4WC4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 No adhesive, roughening, hairspray or glue stick required. Just make sure your bed is level and get the nozzle as close to the bed as possible without touching. Also clean the bed with Isopryl Alcohol before every print. You will find the print sticks to bed until the bed has cooled to room temperature and then will just pull off ...

If you can upload the pdf to this page I will try and print it and see what happens ....

I use the website to load co-ordinates into a CAD program. I then cut wing cores using a homemade CNC foam cutter. If you were creating a tapered wing then I guess you could draw the plan view of the wing and measure the chord at each section. By changing the chord on the website it would give you a plot of each individual rib.

I find this site very useful: http://airfoiltools.com/plotter/index

I used the clear gorilla glue spread very thinly for the fuselage joints. Sanding in one direction across the joint seemed to work well. I filled any dings etc with lightweight filler before priming with acrylic primer.

Thank you for your comments. I think you are right although the photos make it look worse than it is. If the maiden goes OK and requires too much trim i'll redo the tailplane.

Almost finished. Just waiting for 60A ESC then I can play around with positioning for balance and then find someone to maiden it for me. If it flies I'll post a video ... if not then I guess its back to the drawing board !! Came out heavier than expected at almost 1.7 Kg

Dave funny you should mention that. I've had a similar problem recently. I purchased some One strike filler but had to get the gun version as they had no tubs in stock. Filled and sanded perfectly. I purchased another couple of tubes 2 weeks later and the consistency seemed more creamy. It hasn't dried as well as the first batch and when sanding seems to produce rolls of filler under the block ... as if it had PVA in it. Just going to pick up some Red devil from toolstation and give that a go.

You will need to download and install slicing software which will convert the stl file into a gcode file which the printer can use. The stl file you have downloaded from thingiverse is a 3d model of the object you wish to print. I have an ender 3 and use the following slicer software. https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura

I have an ender 3 version 2 and am very pleased with it. Takes a while to get everything dialled in but once that's done correctly I am very pleased with the results.

Fuselage sections glued together using clear gorilla glue. Now on to the sanding and finishing.

I use DC power supply function on the following battery charger from hobbyking with my CNC 4 axis foam cutter with great results. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-accucell-c150-ac-dc-10a-150w-touch-button-smart-balance-charger-us-plug.html?queryID=b702e9426399e20e10d7f75d661d8b10&objectID=79273&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics The find the approx Voltage and amps I need for the length wire I am using I use this online calculator https://www.easycalculation.com/engineering/electrical/nichrome-wire-calculator.php I have attached a short video showing the power supply and setup on a piece of scrap 20210604_170343_Trim.mp4

CNC router in action 20210701_131350.mp4