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dan h

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  1. Richard, That is looking excellent, Great stuff watching this model to come to life. I am definitely gonna give this a try, amazing how much difference it makes with just the use of such basic stuff that we all have at home really. Thankyou for sharing all of this with us. Look forward to seeing more, I was going for a basic scheme on mine, but now, im gonna have a rethink ! Dan
  2. Richard yes I'm liking that alot ! I reckon you have achieved what you set out to do and more.. Brilliant !
  3. Richard, When will these kits be ready too buy? If your not sure, no worries, only this will be a birthday present to myself 😁 Cheers
  4. Nice one Jonathan, 👍 I like your chosen scheme, look forward to seeing it finished
  5. Just re read your msg,, The blocks the snakes go through, is there a gap for the fin post? If not it will need cutting out I suspect
  6. Jonathan, I would slide the fin post all the way to the bottom of the fuz, then to make up the thickness of the fin post put a fillet piece in either side where you have drawn the green square and then give it all a really good sanding to make the shape, then add the rudder. Hope that makes sense, I'm sure someone more experienced will chime in.
  7. To me, it looks like it should go through to the bottom of the fuz to become the fixing for the rudder ? But blended in first, I've not built this model so just a guess,
  8. Does this help. Pics taken from this thread.
  9. Great update Richard, this seems like a very straight forward build to me and very well written out step by step details, you've convinced me to go the brown paper and pva method although I'm going to use aerosols and airbrush on mine. Would love a zero this size with similar build design, after Xmas will be fine 😁
  10. Richard, Good to know that spray paint can be used over the paper and pva. ref the lam film, think il leave that for now as I want to get more into the painting side of models, I do own an airbrush itching to get out its box ! as I have had good results with the eze kote and cloth and thoroughly enjoyed the process of it, I am going to give the paper and pva a go just because i have never tried it, think I will start with the wing that way if it goes wrong ( probably won't ) I have the eze kote to use on the fuz, I do have access to some automotive brown paper as a friend works in the industry, I used to be someone who always flew foam planes and artfs. Then one day I was getting bored of flying the same models as everyone else with the same livery etc so I thought right I want something different so that's when I started building and have never regretted it. ( really enjoy it ) The only thing I found is, my god you can end up with a lot of models ! I shall look forward to seeing you do the covering and painting on this one, I will probably have more questions for you aswell.😁
  11. Thanks for the reply Richard, I have only built 6 traditional balsa kits in the past which were covered with iron on film and 1 that was eze kote and cloth. I started in the hobby only 10yrs ago but started building about 4yrs ago, I mostly fly balsa models now, This will be my first warbird build so maybe I will go down the brown paper and pva Road just to try something different, you said that brown paper and pva is very easy to apply, I was very surprised at how easy glass cloth and eze kote is to get very nice results. can you use rattle cans on the paper and pva?
  12. Looking very good Richard, I'm planning on covering my one with light weight glass cloth and eze kote resin, I have only done this once before on a plane, as for the wings, would it be better to use brown paper and pva as I've read about veneer wings warping with eze kote - or is there a method to seal the veneer first? Allowing the ezekote resin to be used after Dan
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