John Payne

Hi Robert, if you Google for "KK flight controller manual" you should find the info you need. The newer controller now has the screen as a remote unit but the programming manual should give you a good idea on how to change things via the buttons and screen. Good luck.

Hope you sort it. Cheers, John.Hi John, just a thought, but is a case where the throttle has to go to 25% before the stabilisation kicks in? I know that my Trojan is like that.

Hi. Just a thought, but a quick Google finds some people who had the same problem and the props were on the wrong motors and therefore not generating enough lift. Check again that the props are on the correct motors and turning the correct way. I know there are two of each direction but perhaps they are on the wrong motors. Sorry if you have already checked this when you say you have checked the props. John.

I build mainly from plans but will throw in a foamy or ARTF if I like the model.

Hi Andrew, just seen this thread. I have flown my Astro Hog with an ASP 52 four stroke (underpowered for the windier weather and the one in my picture) a Thunder Tiger 91 four stroke (comfortably overpowered!) and an ASP 65 four stroke which was fine for my style of aerobatic fun. I also built it from the original plan with inset ailerons and lots of dihedral. To say the rudder had authority is an understatement. I cut the wing in half and reduced the dihedral to 1 inch under each tip and it now flies a lot better. It is not unstable without the excess dihedral (needed when it was first designed), it flies nice and smooth and it performs nice aerobatics. Hope this helps.

My apologies mate, got my convex and concave mixed up. The CONCAVE side is away from the tail boom (just checked again to make sure, twice!).

Hi Robert, just checked mine and the convex face is away from the tail boom.

Did anyone else notice that one of the channels on the box was the Rubber? Perhaps to make it bounce better on landing......... John.

Well, I only use two cell lipos through a switch and as such haven't had any problems. It would be a good idea to avoid using the cheaper switches available. The ones on the 3 and 4 cell lipos are disconnected when I change the battery after each flight so the problem doesn't happen there. One of the problems with anything like this is that you can read an awful lot of stuff and expect a lot of bad things to happen. My experience is that I haven't had any problems with the batteries, switches or regulators.

Hi Ron. I put the regulator between the switch and receiver so that the regulator is isolated from the battery when it is switched off. Seemed to be a better option than having it loading the battery all the time.

Hi Ron, not sure what the volt range is, but I have used them on 3 and 4 cell lipos and they have been OK. I use them also in electric models where I tap off the connectors to provide a feed to the receiver and this has more chance of preventing a problem if the ESC goes AWOL.

Hi Ron, I don't know too much about how they operate, but if you see the regulator as a funnel, the larger connector is where you put in the power (female connector) and the smaller connector is where the regulated supply comes out (male connector). I'm not sure if you can damage them by connecting up the wrong way, but I connected all mine up that way and had no problems.

Sounds right to me mate. They use curve, I think, to describe what the line looks like when you add expo, with the default "curve" being a straight line with no expo. Glad you got it sorted. John.

Hi Neale, are you moving the switch to each position to make the change for that particular position? John.

Hi Martin, I cured one of mine with a similar issue by using a longer length of fuel tube and routing it up over the level of the tank, on the engine side of the firewall, so the fuel had to go "uphill" to get to the engine, It did the job and it didn't seem to effect the way the engine ran. I'm sure I saw that tip on this forum some time ago. It's a simple fix and is worth a try. Cheers, John.