John Wagg

Battery is in the nose just behind the front bulkhead. Needed 2 ounces of lead in the nose block to set the recommended CG at about 50% back. Even so the model weighs in at 21 oz's as per the plan shows. Outerzone - https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=221 Another awaiting its maiden. Though with the current forecast - it might be sometime. Too windy or too cold.🙄 Not sure on whether it will be happy with a 2s or 3s battery.? I'll start with the 3s and see how it goes.

Now for something completely different :-

Apparently these can run fine with a 2 bladed prop. But I don't know what size or pitch ? GG - No, unfortunately, these don't have the pop-off props.

What's the chances have not having to use the spare prop' ?? No idea when i will get the inaugural flight in but fingers crossed and will report back.

Hoping Santa would bring me this :- Volantex P51D 750mm span. Flat Pack :- I had it on last years list but I must have not been on Santa's "good" list at the time. This model does not connect to MPM transmitters so I have done a couple of changes allowing me to use it with my Radiomaster transmitter. My reason for the change is I fly Mode 1 and the included Tx only comes in Mode 2. First I removed the planes receiver, which also has a gyro, and fitted a BYME-A gyro in place. Next installed a Frsky R-XSR receiver which has an SBUS output to the BYME gyro. The Radiolink Byme-A gyro is fitted where the original receiver sat. The R-XSR receiver placed up inside the body. The wires I to tucked away in the front and the wing assembled into place. Fully assembled and everything appears to work as it should. Now ready for a test flight when the weather picks up.

Like my flight box, now being heavier, the hills have grown higher and steeper. 😟

Sunset Strip years for me. I don't remember the flight box being this heavy 30 years ago. Used to carry a gallon of fuel and a car size battery - plus starters and TX - plus a few tools. I still do some IC and have reduced some weight by only carrying enough fuel for the session. I have a lot smaller lead acid battery now, but even that's still a bit heavy. So in the throws of trying a Li-Po setup for starter and glow plug. I do have a NiMH glow stick as well and will keep that. I'll probably keep the flight box in the car as back up until I'm confident that the LI-Po system is reliable. I like IC but have now dabbled with this elctrickerty stuff and certainly a lot easier. But as mentioned up topic I have 5 or 6 different types of batteries (1S,2S 3S,4S) for the various planes. Even so a lot cleaner, no starting problems and no cutting out mid-flight. 🙄

Oh well. 🥴 Nothing ventured, nothing gained. ❓ Live and learn (sometimes) 👍 I'll give it a try on an old plug. Fire extinguisher at the read.

Thankyou to all for the links and advice. Went for the following off Ebay. £4.65. ( 2"x 1.5" ) Voltage display of either input or output. Left button switches display on/off. Right button selects input or output display. By holding down the buttons the display can be calibrated (against my multi-meter). Was fractionally out. Not tested yet on a glow plug. Drawback = will not show open circuit glow-plug unless an ammeter is in circuit. Now need to rig up a box (or just heat shrink ?) and a wiring harness.

Thanks' to both. I just wondered if you had set a current limit in case of a short across the output ? I'm still carrying round my old 40 year old heavy flight box (12v lead battery) so looking to reduce weight. I see a project in the near future. 👍 Cheers

A couple of queries please - 1) Did you purchase the meter and regulator as a kit ? 2) What settings have you set on the unit ? Thanks

A couple of notes- 1) The USB connecting cable must be a proper data transfer cable, not just a charging cable. Some USB cables are only for charging and will not work, so try a different USB cable if it doesn't work. 2) Double check, in the stabilizer mode, that the control surfaces work correctly. So when the plane tips to the right that the right aileron goes down to counteract. Same for elevator, when the nose goes down the elevator goes up and so on.

Took some finding. Link at the bottom of the page :- https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14947757 FMS FK Param V2.0(REV1).zip - YouTube :-

Only from what I have read - It is capable of being re-programmed to suit various models. Initially it should work but may be over or under sensitive and need tuning, You could test the V2 on the bench by just connecting it up as you would in a plane. After it is set, pick it up and by moving it, the controls should respond. V2 Manual :- https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0558/5829/8965/files/FMS_Reflex_V2_Manual.pdf?v=1711089041 Edit - According to the instructions you can download firmware and re-programme the V2. I would presume you could pick a similar model to yours and use that.