Frank Day

Hi, I have several RCV engines CD & SP and they all have a charactoristic clicking sound. Apparently some guy in the US created some mod to reduce this, probably some sort of thrust washer but im not sure and possibly may cause damage.

Recently back in the hobby and looking for some build advice, I have a part finished traditional build to complete and another short kit to build at a later date when the skill level has improved. Both kits use a whole bunch of 1/4 sq balsa in the fuselage and wings and I was wondering about the pros and cons of using carbon fibre box instead, ie weight, strength, bonding etc All advice welcome

Hi, I looked at PeterF's and have saved a copy for later use. Bit of a concern about the way the retracts "flick" it appears that they are balking before pressure moves the "down lock" although I may be wrong. I looked at the other suggestion as well, all are in the mix, I'll probably have this sorted one way or the other before i get the glue out.

Just in the process of gathering materials for the above, short kit curtesy of ebay and Sariks for additional wood packs and molded items. i've run into an issue with landing gear. I've previously been in contact with John at Unitracts for some TN Typhoon landing gear but his phone just rings out now. Does anyone know if he is still trading and if so a way of contacting him. Alternatively does anyone have a set for sale or have the ability to produce one or know of a suitable alternative. I have briefly looked at the Seagull 80" Mossie but cant find any spec for them. Frank

Hi, Looking for a RCV 90 SP engine pref unused or little use. Series2/MK2 helical gears) I also have two BNIB RCV91CD engines available but would need the 90SP first. Thanks

Hi, Im looking for an unloved Brian Taylor 81" Mosquito in need of a new home. Preferable in usable condition but some tinkering is fine. It will be coming to a good Vegan free home. Thanks

Thanks for the messages. Relatively new here and not sure how to respond to an individual reply. Pete, I would really appreciate a copy of your plans. It was the wing fixing method that led me to the Royal conclusion but havent been able to find much. let me know how to proceed with it. Re the SP cooling issue: I have the 90SP mentioned and a 120SP and also two new 91CD's. I'm thinking of putting the 120 into the Stinson with a dummy radial. I have some duct details/ drawings from Weston. The 90SP is destined for a part built Tony Nijhuis 62" Typhoon curtesy of a certain internet auction site, handily it has a huge radiator cowling for a duct. I believe my SP's are MK2's with helical gears. I think the 90SP survived in the Stinson due to no more than four flights and a huge open cowl

Thanks. It is very nice looking and beautifully built. The more I dig into it the more it grows on you.

Hi, Long story short. I bought a RCV90 SP engine and it came attached to an 84" Stinson SR-8. I intended to remove the engine and sell on but the more I looked at it the more I like it. I am trying to accurately ID the model and am pretty certain it was a Royal kit from looking numerous pictures. The previous owner tells me it was tail heavy so would like to find CG info etc and if possible a set of plans/copy etc etc. Thanks in advance for your help

Hi, It appears to be the same as yours, carb is different but I got 3 with it, I dont have any of the exhaust mechanism. Perhaps I should upload a few pictures.

Hi, Thanks for the quick response, I know nothing of these engines . Are the links the same engine, is there something that identifies them

Hi, I acquired a bunch of mouse eaten old planes one with a Super Tigre V56. I added a few drops of Vapour oil and turned it over a few times. I hooked it up and it started on the 2nd attempt. I broke the plane up but have kept the engine, it turns over smoothly with a nice pop, no crank play etc. It had a strap on muffler that I guess wont be original.   I've looked for some specs, manual etc but no luck yet. Can anyone point me in the right direction Thanks Edited By Martin Harris - Moderator on 30/01/2021 18:59:06

Hi, Off at a tangent. I went mad and bought a Hobbyking Lancaster V3 for use at a later date. Hopefully by then I will have upskilled enough not to crash it out of the box. though having read some forum posts that day may never arrive.. There seems to be a shortage of, in my case useful spares, propellers come to mind. I could wait for it to come but does anyone know the propeller size and pitch. Thanks

Thanks to all for the info, tips and links. I did watch a video where a guy used all the CA options, kickers etc etc so this has been really useful. I have to build the tail and sheet all of it so ill do a few tests on some scrap with different products first. Thanks

Thanks for the links, i'll watch them again and play with some off cuts first. Not too senior have own teeth and havent wet the armchair yet Regards

Hi, As mentioned in an earlier post I've just returned to this after many years. I picked up a Eflite Apprentice with SAFE and will probably stick to foamies for a while. From my earlier post i bought a part complete Tony Nijhuis Typhoon, I have gradually been collecting parts to finish it. I cant find some suitable main landing gear. I did email Nihuis designs but no luck. Some, eflite BF109 items look promising, advice welcome. Major one now, last time around it was Balsa cement and 2 part adhesives. Can anyone give a quick guide to cyano, obviously ive used "super glue" but different viscosities and when and where to use them. Thanks

100% I will be ripping off the wire actuators idea, any measurements and close up pics welcome. Pics of blended piece by wing bolts and flat area on LE very useful. was thinking of putting two dowels in as drilling the centre would be on W1 and may allow some movement As my model is still skeletal I've an opportunity to add some bits, though i'm mindful of the weight. Query on the tail fitting TN's plan say make in two halves, cut through sheeting and butt join inside. (not sure about that) thought to make in one piece poke it through and secure then sheet, a little more time consuming may be.Trevor's model seems to have the top of the fuse opened up for fitting, any thoughts. I would like some basic flaps and now would be the time to do it, subject to finishing my kitchen otherwise i'll be in trouble, would these need a full size servo or would something like a pair 9g do the job, have some plus weight consideration. As my 1st post, im trying to avoid external control horns etc so i've mocked up a elevator torque rod with a 90deg spur that will connect internally so will leave some sort of access panel. Sorry so many questions been 40 years or so since I built anything like this.

May be if they work. different rules/regs in NZ possibly

Hi, Bob & Dale, I'll try and find the David Burton article and do a little more reading on the covering materials, light and paintable needed. Should I seal the balsa before covering (iron on)? I have been looking at your wings and the cogs have been turning but I think i'll stick to a standard-ish build, as the wish list may surpass the current skill level Looking at the pintle angle and doors I thought tthat may be the case. My wing has had one half of the underside sheeted, I guess the builder either had no intention of adding doors or they would be minimal as the hole cut only allows for the 90mm wheel and strut to pass through and isnt cut anywhere near the area on the plan. Will probably open that out a little but not full size. No shows for me either. I have thought about the inner door and could hinge it and close it with a lever at 90deg or thereabouts pushed up by the retracting wheel but how to stop it flapping about when down, may be something springy attached to the hinge. Will leave that till much later. Steel cannons look like a good way to aid the balance. Thanks again for the info and pictures.

Hi, Once again thanks for taking time to reply. You're right 12mm slab rudder, fin is a 3 layer balsa laminated affair, unfortunately the fin I have is warped, grain all laid in the same direction though it may be a template the guy made.. Im guessing the rudder will go the same way. I'm considering rebuilding these with a thin skin over a simple frame. I'll cut it all and throw everything on the scales first just in case I manage to build it heavier than the slab.I dont mind a little trial and error/waste and will be useful practice Iron on coverings, nightmare! too many differing opinions. Have never had a go at this but have read a few bits.Will cover some random shapes and surfaces first. I will def need some advice on this: Paintable covering: confused by all the forum discussions on right product Sand and seal before covering or just sand. TN used Solartex and prymol I think but that may be old news by now. Thanks

Hi Dale, Thanks for the reply. I looked at your photographs and a picture really does save a thousand words.and I will be refering to them during the build. I did take a tape measure to it and it is 62inch rather than the 40 size I believe. the original article produced. I got lucky with this ebay purchase, the original builder produced copies of the plan as well as a full set of cutting templates and laminated paper copies of every piece should spares be needed, (3 A4 size box files) hopefully not! Looking at the weight of the electric set up and reading a number of posts, re using the second battery as ballast it seems that Tony is the only person who didnt need a whole bunch of additional weight up front. The electric motor and batteries I looked at seem to come in at around 500g excluding ESC. I think you also added 745g of steel and lead. 1345g in total-ish Did you build the engine mount with the built in thrust angle or is this something builders dont bother with? It was always my intention to go with a ic engine, The 120 with muffler is 1005g and the 90 is 800g excluding fuel and tank. May be the 90 is the way to go. I'll also have to do some research into coverings and paint to keep the weight down, it seems to make a surprising difference. Tissue paper and dope last time I did this and i'll save the RDS for a later date. Gear doors seem likely to be an issue, getting the wheel into the well and the door flush is going to take some tinkering, gear down I can visualize the doors would need to be mounted "toe in" on the struts? and the wheels when housed will be angled within the well so width of the wheel may also be an issue. Advice welcome.

Hi Denis, Thanks for the reply.I've been on the Nijhuis site Having read a few posts about the model needing 1-2lb of lead in the cowl, I thought to replace dead weight with more engine and a 3 blade prop. The RCV SP range has a 2 -1 reduction in prop speed so allowing for a better scale appearance. I also have a RCV91CD @800g. that would fit inverted but is slightly longer. The .60 size engine seems undersized compared directly to the recommended engines in other models of similar weight fromTony. A few members seem to believe the quoted 7lb is not realistic with experienced builders ending up at 8lb plus so not quite sure where mine will end up. I have to confess I do like to oversize engines/motors. Its been a long time since I built anything and a lot has changed. I really dont like exposed servos and rods/horns so im also looking at RDS or IDS as ive seem them described system whilst the model is un-sheeted

Hi, Hope this is posted correctly? It has been many years (40 plus) since I last ingested clouds of balsa dust and it was all balsa cement and 35mhz. Like others who have posted recently growing up and becoming "responsible" put paid to my RC flying days. A while ago I acquired a few old IC trainer type models from someone I was working for. Bit of tinkering and they all run and the electrics work. One I converted to electric and works well. The others not so much, mouse damage etc. One has a fberglass fuse, I think its an Avondelli? Cessna high wing style, will fly with a little TLC but not really interested. Having caught the bug again I bought a foam 4ch trainer and apart from one nose off "heavy landing" its going ok. I blame that on sudden strong wind that sent it soaring like a rocket and disappearing into the distance,I managed to recovered it but battery was gone and couldnt pull it back up enough, though it has now been passed as airworthy again! Im now also using the converted trad build model I converted to electric, wing is huge, flies slow and glides nicely so not to scary, dont want to crash it. I also added my new favourite item a 3 axis gyro. The reason for the post is I bought a part built Tony Nijhuis 62" Typhoon, nicely built to the point of sheeting. Built by an older guy, sadly now passed who was a prolific builder from plans, no cnc kits right up to the point of sheeting when he would stop and build something else. I know the plans were from 2007 so ancient news but looking for some advice on the model if someone still has one. I have read that a lead mine may be needed to acheive the correct CG,(1-2lb) with that in mind my plan is a 1kg RCV 120SP 4 stroke, will need a 15mm extension to the fuse but im ok with that. Also advice on RDS control surfaces. Post is probably a little long but adice welcome.