i12fly

I agree with Andy, on my electric Tiger Cat twin the props rotate the same way. It swings no more than a single electric model. In the air there is no noticeable change when you open the throttle.

Can anyone advise what sort of price APOB pay for new, used etc planes, engines, radio, kits etc. A club member has died and the relatives are looking to sell as a job lot. I heard a rumour that they pay about 50% cost of a new item, or about 50% of what they think they can sell, don't know if it is true. Doesn't seem unreasonable if true.

Maybe I'm different but during flying season I store my batteries at 3.96 to 4.0V per cell, which is about 80%. This way I can quickly top them up to 97 to 99% to go flying. There's maybe slight degradation, but I've got two Turnigy 4s bought 2016 with negligible swelling after 90+ sorties and others bought more recently. During the 2-3months in winter when I'm not flying I usually drop them down to 50-60%. I have got 1 Zippy bought 2021 that has only done 14 flights and this is starting to puff to where I'm thinking of retiring it, it still performs well but.... I think I ran it down once accidentally to about 6% when waiting for the runway to clear, and I don't think it liked that. I usually leave 30-35% left on landing.

I have to disagree, one sense that does seem to improve with age is common sense. The only problem with that is that everybody's common sense is often different...... 😃

I quite like the idea of having a quilt cover and pillows -as suggested on the Spoonflower webpage. Unfortunately my wife doesn't agree..... 😭

Same thing happened to McCudden in WW1. When he was an Aircraftsman he was practicing prop swinging, and unfortunately the last pilot had left the ignition switches on and no chocks.... Serious damage ensued, he would have been in big trouble but for the pilot's negligence. Don't know what happened to the pilot. 🙄

The manufacturer described it as being "peerless flying characteristics", not pilotless flying characteristics.... 😲

The best way to light the fire is place two logs side by side placing them so you get a sort of flat surface at the top face, then form a criss-cross lattice tower of kindling say 8 rows of two sticks about 4 or 5 inches apart and place one or two firelighters inbetween the lattice at the bottom and light them (if you don't have firelighters use a few paper fire sticks around the lattice tower). All air supplies are open at this stage. The kindling will take light very quickly giving a good pull up the chimney then burn down into the logs to give a low smoke lighting. When nicely lit regulate the air to give a cosy burn inside the stove, not in the chimney -as too much heat would be lost up and out the chimney. The top down principle is that as the wood burns, vaporising the complex hyrocarbons in the wood, they burn (no smoke). Lighting from the bottom of the log, the hydrocarbons vaporise but there is insufficient heat to burn them as they pass up the side of the relatively cool log, so they pass up into the chimney as smoke (and soot). When refuelling, wait until there is just a nice bed of hot glowing embers (give it a rake with the poker to excite them) then place the fresh log on top, open the air supply. Everything is very hot so the log takes fire very quickly and burns up the side quickly to minimise smoke. I worked in the industry for over ten years, ask three people and you will get three opinions of how to light a fire, but the above is the best method for the stove and the environment (oh and the neighbours too).

Anyone buying a log burner should buy one that is undersized rather than oversized (i.e. the opposite to a gas boiler). That way it operates at maximum efficiency the majority of the time, burns the 'smoke' and so getting the most out of the fuel. it is particularly important in a smoke control area where a smoke control stove is a legal requirement. It is essential to burn seasoned wood to achieve a correct burn as green wood is typically 60%+ moisture, seasoned wood 20% or less. That excess moisture takes energy to evaporate and results in lower output from the fuel/ stove and generates smoke, but more importantly condenses in the flue with tar which is difficult to remove, and sticky sooty deposits inside the stove. It is also important to get the stove up to temperature quickly when lighting, which means following lighting instruction. To burn wood efficiently it burns downwards, not upwards so kindling is lit above a couple of logs not the other way round. Some years ago a study found that a room heated using convective heat needs to operate 2 deg C higher than a room with radiant heating to give the same comfort level. Its not far from the truth in my experience.

Heat pump? do the sums.... My gas is 6.1p per kWh and condensing boiler about 90% efficient in real terms. Heat pump gives about 3kWh for every 1kWh supplied from the grid. But my electric is 23.8p per kWh nearly 4x the gas cost. So I'd lose. Never mind the capital outlay. Also radiators would need to be twice the size of current and would feel cool to the touch. Also domestic hot water temperature would need to be boosted by electric to give a comfortable bath or shower..... What about solar panels? These lose about 2% efficiency (or more depending on how recent the model) per year, so after 20yrs really need replacing. Oh and the damaged roof tiles probably mean you will need a new roof... Spray roof insulation - heard a Radio 4 report saying that most mortgage providers will not provide one if you've got this so difficult to sell, and they wont give equity release either.... Save money, the planet? I think you call it sophistry.

....and here in the E. Midlands we have Sara Blizzard. You couldn't make it up!

Id like to give a shout out for RC Bearings.co.uk Excellent quick service last week for my electric motors and low cost/ postage. (They do IC too.)

Oh, so sad. I've built 3 of his RC designs, all perfect flyers. 2 are my go to models, particularly Grumpy Tiger Cub -my favourite flyer. Fly high Peter, condolences to family and friends. He will be sorely missed by the modelling community.

...and I use hair band from Poundland/ chemists etc.

Sorry bit off topic, but I have an SC 70FS where the valve inserts leak in the head. Only happens when it is hot but enough to cause the engine to stop. Is there any cure other than a new head?