Declan

Storm Daragh has meant lots of time on the build this last couple of days. Making good progress with the wings nearly ready for sanding and covering. I've covered all the control surfaces using the heat shrink film from 4Max models. I found this to be very easy to use and I'm very pleased with the outcome.

Allan, thanks for the information. I've just had a quick look at the Lifecolour website and they look good. How much coverage do you get from the 22ml tin/pot?

Thanks for the replies. I think my original plan is worth a go. I've looked at Klass Kote but they are quite expensive although relative to the cost of the model in total that's not really an issue. It's the general safety requirements that put me off. My home office is also my workshop so keeping fumes to a minimum is a key factor. Acrylics are just easier to handle and the smell doesn't linger for days. We also have stock items of clothing in our office and they would just stink if we used the more industrial paints. Unfortunately there is nowhere else I can paint so I have to work with what I have. I'm not after a super fine scale finish but more something that is reasonably well done that was easy enough to apply. I can't see too much detail once it's in the air anyway!

Interesting, that may be a good option.

So as a returning modeller from 20yrs ago It seems no-one has solved the painting of RC models (balsa covered scale ones) with a definative answer. Looking at the forum there doesn't seem to be a consistent way of doing this advice theme, unless I'm not looking correctly. There are a number of manufacturers making paints for scale modelling plastic kits but the RC world seems to be still in a very large grey area. I'm researching for upcoming painting of models I'm building and will build. Once will be electric (Warbird replicas me110 and waiting for the group build thread on that one) and the other IC (my current FW190 project). I'm hoping to use the Me110 as a testbed for the FW190 build painting. Both are going to be covered with glass fibre cloth applied with Delux materials EzeKote. I'm also quite handy with an airbrush as I have a couple for scale modelling already along with a good extractor fan. I would rather spray all paint if possible but that seems to be a difficult thing to achieve. So the plan seems to be, at the moment anyway, the following. Finish model with cloth and sand smooth. Coat with EzeKote to seal. Spray with automotive rattle can primer, or levelling primer for the base. Paint the large areas with a roller using as suggested valspar paints matched from B&Q. Sand as necessary. Spraying a paint here would be preferable. Spray finer detials including markings and insignia using Vallejo or Tamiya acrylics from my airbrush. Seal with Delux materials Aerokote with matt additive for fuel proofing. Fly model and not crash it on the maiden....... Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated. I did buy automotive paint for spraying a model Me109 about 20yrs ago and that did work fine. It was however quite expensive and thinned using cellulose thinners and was very toxic. I'd like to avoid this on this occasion and maybe use a water based solution if possible.

Jon, that may well be what I choose to do. However, I'm keen to play with the engine in the meantime... We'll see. Interestingly no-one ever thinks about running in petrol lawnmowers or hedge strimmers so I do agree with you in the main. I'm a motorbiker for many years and the Japanese engines are pretty much bulletproof as long as they have oil in them.

Just picked up this thread. I'd defo be interested in a 110 kit if made. Happy to pay deposit or price but I have read the previous comments on this so whicheve works best. My paint scheme would be (one I made earlier). Doesn't fly very well though......

Recent purchase of an OS FS95V for the build. A really lovely bit of Japanese engineering. Seems a shame to run it and get it dirty. I'll need to set up a test bench to run it in and set the mixture.

I've tacked the fuselage together using CA. Once the front box section was assembled I set the middle lower fuselage stringer straight on my workbench and pinned this down. I then dry assembled the rear formers for the fuselage and set the dry assembly down on the pinned stringer. After lining up the front of the fuselage on my straight line and making sure the centre line of the firewall was straight and perpendicular with my line I tacked with CA. I'm still wating for some Super Phatic to arrive and I'll go over all the joints with this for belt and braces glueing on both the fuselage and wings. Once this has set I can then give all my work a good sanding where needed. The fit has been ok so far. The only error I've encountered was incorrect locating lugs on F6. This was an easy remedy though. The fuselase is a bit 'square' as mentioned by Engine Doctor but I think after the large wings are on it will not be too noticeable. It's a similar look to the Max Thrus Riot from a fuselage point of view.

Finished the bare skeleton for the wings. I'm going to stop here with the wings and start on the fuselage. Reading the build in the RCME Ian clamps the wings to the fuselage before setting the final postion of the wing retaining plates which seems like a good idea. This should mean a nice snug fit when completed.

So far the fits seem fine. I've only done what you can see in the picture. Once I have it all tacked with CA I'll go over all the joints with the Delux Materials Super Phatic glue let that cure and give it a nice sand all over before sheeting. I did the usual sanding of the mating surfaces prior to assembly. The wing seems to have gone together nice and straight and I had no problems aligning it with my straight line and perpendicular marks. The ribs sat vertical in the cross spar nicely. There is a spcing jig to use which is handy. Although not called for in the instructions I did put the metal reinforcing spar in place before glueing, again that went in very easily.

Having recently returned to the hobby I've been getting my eye back in so to speak with an XFly Glastar V2 foamie bush plane. I've also started a long term Brian Taylor FW190 build, this is on a different thread. In the meantime I wanted something to get back to more adventurous flying and after searching through the model sites and watching YouTube I've decided on a Weston Cougar kit. I was considering an Arrows Edge 540 but I did have a Cougar before and I recall it being a great flyer. I think the article in the November issue of RCME swayed my descision a little. So I ordered it on Wednesday and it came the day after after a very nice helpful chat with someone at Weston UK. I've started the wings as per the instructions and here's where I'm at so far.

Not posted anything for a couple of weeks and I've started a new build alongside this one. Weston Cougar for electric power kit. I've completed the main basic wing structure today. Maybe I'll start a new thread for this one.

Lol, thanks for the replies. In true forum fashion there's lots of differing advice although safety is a consistent theme. I think I'll set up the engine when it arrives on a test stand to run it in and see if I can start it manually priming it with the exhaust outlet blocked. I can see the fuel lines clearly and I'll know if it's priming or not. If I cannot do it manually I'll invest in a starter. I'm not against the idea of one but I've always felt that using one was more dangerous than the stick. You have to control the starter and watch the wires and the prop. A stick in your hand is fairly easy to manage IMO, the wooden spoon being a great idea! Ultimately the prop is very dangerous once it's been started by either method.