Luke Lane

Weston's fuel is fine, been using it for years. I normally buy 4 half gallons as with low usage it's less likely to get contaminated. Also, when you're about to place an order, ask your club mates if they require some, to share the costs. You'll never get the same power from an engine running on petrol as opposed to glow fuel. I have found that petrol engines below 15cc aren't worth the bother. I dare to say, you can always try one of them new-fangled electric engines.

Give this old dog a chance to learn a new trick. Count me in for Christmas.

Yes please.

Send it my way.

Make me a happy chappie.

Don't forget me.

Bought the materials for it from SLEC at Weston Park, yesterday. I was given an early OS Max 20 engine from one of our senior club members a few months ago, so it will be a good opportunity to have some retro fun. The speed at which I build models, it should be ready this time next year.

The best way to clean your rule is with some WD40 and a fine Garryson Garryflex rubbing block. That way, you don't rub away the paint in the marked increments, just the surface rust, ect. They cost about £6 from Ebay, but they last for years and they're a very handy addition to your tool kit.

Bought one last year. It's been a very handy tool to have in the workshop. Well made and great value.

Hi David, Like myself, you've learned the hard way. Never use superglue for canopies. Once you've trimmed and happy with the fit of the canopy, mark around it with a pen. Mask up to the line. With a brush, apply a thin layer, 6 -10 mm wide of canopy glue (I use Deluxe Materials) to both surfaces and allow to dry until clear. Cut some short lengths of masking tape & tack them to the edge of a bench or shelf, ready for the next part. Apply a slightly thicker, even layer to just the fuselage and position the canopy. All being well, you should have hardly any excess glue to wipe away. Now secure in place with the short lengths masking tape until dry. As Peter Miller suggested, it may be necessary to use very small screws (Model Fixings) to hold it in place whilst gluing. On my Seagull RV8, it took me about 4 hours to fix the canopy.

Morris Mini Motors have them for sale.

Their site wasn't working the other weekend. I did pop in last Tuesday for a few bits, and the staff where there usual, chirpy, selves. Wait until they open, and give them a call.

Take a look at the Camden Miniature Steam Services site. There's 100's of books on model engineering and build manuals.

Just finished assembling their Sbach 342. The instruction manual has to be the worst I've ever seen for an ARTF. Most of the hardware that came with the model went in the bin. Hopefully, it'll fly ok and make a good hack.

Just finished assembling their Sbach 342. The instruction manual has to be the worst I've ever seen for an ARTF. Most of the hardware that came with the model went in the bin. Hopefully, it'll fly ok and make a good hack.

A little bit of history behind Magnum Engines. Magnum engines where made as a side line, by Custom Enclosures, Concorde Street, Luton, Beds, during the 80's to early 90's. The company was dissolved about 20 years ago. There was a 3 cylinder radial with a starter, and from my memory was spark ignition, running on petrol, that they where trying out. At that time, I was putting lot of precision engineering work their way, and as a thank you, they gave me the Magnum 91S that was shown at the Nuremburg Toy Fair 1988. A heavy engine and not as powerful as any of the competition, these engines where mostly seen on large vintage models. By swapping the valve push-rods, it could then run backwards ( clockwise ). When I came out of the hobby in 2003, I sold it along with all my other gear at the Watford swap meet. I hasten to add, that I'm well and truly back into the hobby.

Some good news. Jason Carter ( Hobbystores - St Albans ) has just opened up a new model shop in Letchworth. Redfin Models. 9 Howard Park Corner, Letchworth Garden City, Herts. SG6 1PQ Redfinmodels.com. I'm sure you'll all agree, it's good to see a new shop opening.

Just a couple of clicks of down elevator trim will make it behave like a pylon racer. Luke.

The best cutter for film, fabric & paper is the iSlice. You can buy them for about £4 from Lakeland.

It's given me an idea. I'm going to propose that our club buys one of these buggies, as it's a 60 yard walk from the pits to the patch. Who knows, the committee might agree to it. It can be funded by the sale of the flying pigs.

How about a Bucker Bestmann. 72 inch, 120 four stroke. It has loads of character, hundreds of different colour schemes, looks right so it should fly right, fixed u/c and fairly straight forward to build. Now I would clear the board for this.

Here's my choices. Percival Piston Provost. Spitfire Mk24 P38 Lightening

Mine was Pal Joey in 1975. Built from a free plan in the Christmas 1963 edition of Aeromodeller and powered by a DC Merlin diesel engine. The radio control consisted of a single channel transmitter that I built (with help from my physics teacher) from an article in the RCM&E, a MacGreggor receiver and a Elmic Conquest rubber powered escapement. Two years later and after a lot of saving and 14th birthday money , I purchase my first set of proportional radio, a Horizon Systems HS4E. It cost about £100 back then or a whopping £1000 in today's money.

The blades look the same as those used with the Proxxon jigsaw. Axminster Tools supply these. Have tried out my saw with various types of wood and plastic and I'm very happy with the results & performance. No more excuses now, I'm off to carry on with my new project, the Percival Piston Provost.

Wifey came home with the jigsaw. For £16.99p, I'm very impressed with the quality and features. 240 volt mains powered, long power lead, variable speed, tilting shoe (45 degrees), adjustable cutting guide and tactile rubber grip on the body of saw. I would think it'll be capable of cutting plywood up to 6 mm in thickness. I'll give it a test tomorrow night when SWMBO goes out.