
GoodersGold
Members-
Posts
24 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Recent Profile Visitors
The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.
GoodersGold's Achievements
3
Reputation
-
Probably been asked before, but can someone tell me if the is any reason you cannot use a hard case lipo in an aircraft. I appreciate that the hard casing is added protection for off road buggy’s etc but wondering if those here use them as they do tend to be a little cheaper and have very high discharge rates.
-
Morning all, I have just received a book I ordered some time ago and it arrived today in a super secure metallic bubble wrap type of material. When I removed the contents from the packaging the packet remained surprisingly rigid and I thought, this would make a great wing bag. I have seen a few videos of people making wing bags out of laminated flooring underlay, but that seems to be prone to losing shape, this other stuff could be great. Has anyone tried it? This is the type of stuff I mean
-
Fibreglass Re-enforcement tips
GoodersGold replied to GoodersGold's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Thank you Bruce, very kind, I’m hoping to source a small amount from a club member -
Fibreglass Re-enforcement tips
GoodersGold replied to GoodersGold's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Cheers Robin, I’ll do some further searching on this. I always try to support small businesses in our hobby but I refuse to pay £8.50 shipping from Bucks. I really appreciate your help -
Fibreglass Re-enforcement tips
GoodersGold replied to GoodersGold's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
The structure is free of oil being a new kit. What products do I need? Is Kevlar, a cloth that can be moulded to shape? Where is the best place to get them from? Key words to search with? -
Fibreglass Re-enforcement tips
GoodersGold replied to GoodersGold's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Landings are fine, I’m just following up on previous recommendations to strengthen this area, I’ll use nylon fixings as well -
Hello all, Can you help. I am putting together a Wot 4 ARTF (balsa/ply) and have been helped by a few along the way, much appreciated! I have been advised to beef up the U/C fixing area with "glass cloth". TBH I have never done this before, seen it done loads of times but not in a model. What do I need? Any tips and tricks you can help me with? I'm near then end of the "build", I'm just about ready to remove the dry fitted electronics so I can apply some wood glue to strengthen where I can and apply the glass cloth to the U/C area. Thanks
-
Thanks for the tips again Bruce. So yesterday evening, I had a dry fit, to have a look the initial CG check and found that with the battery (4s 4000mAh) all the way forward, she was tail heavy. Now, I do have to adjust and move the motor a few mm forwards, which will help. The instructions put the suggested CG to 82mm, I have seen a few different figures on here, what is your experience?
-
The battery plate is sitting a low as is possible i.e on the lower lugs of the first former past the firewall, see pic 1 below, its not fixed into position just held with a screw to give me some idea of battery placement. I had no objection with suggested battery tray, as non was provided, that's why I'm having to build something myself and the reason for my questions. I have since found a WOT 4 battery tray kit, it's on order we'll will see how that goes. Sliding a 4000mAh battery onto the tray as it is, only just goes in, but the battery could go as far back as F2 to find the right CG. Rudder control is complete and working effectively
-
Thanks for the tips Bruce, please don't think your teaching Grandma to suck eggs, every day is a school day as far as I'm concerned 😉 I'll add some glass cloth the U/C area. I haven't used the Pull/Pull method before and I have not used it this time, I wasn't confident in setting this up, so just opted for the normal control rod. I do get quite nervous about removing wood from structural areas, mainly due to lack of experience, so I will usually find another option, thats one thing I love about our hobby, finding solutions to problems as you go. Tail feathers on and motor is in, although I did fine the factory fitted captive nuts for the IC engine mount were in the way of my motor mount, it only just went in without reconstruction. The picture appears to show the motor a bit twisted, but its not, I hope 🤐 I only purchased my "kit" this month, how old is it I have no idea, it could have been in a container for years!! In the photo, hopefully you can see the temp slanted lite ply plank that the battery will sit on (?) I have quite a bit of wriggle room to help with CG, yes I am going to dry fit everything before committing to securing Thanks for the pictures Geoff, that's were I see the battery going in mine, we will see how it works out. Thank for this tips re the U/C fixings, noted Thank you all for your wise words, much appreciated
-
I accept that there should not be any issue with standard snakes with this type and size of model, my concern was when I used the snakes I had in stock they flexed under the load of my particular building technique. I used mylar hinges super glued in and they are quite stiff. I have tried "working" the control surface to loosen them up a bit but they are still quite stiff. I have used 3mm carbon rods (pinched from an umbrella) with 2mm control rods epoxied and covered the glue ends in automotive fabric tape, this has given me the authority I need, maybe overkill but it's a good solution.
-
Thunder Tiger or Hangar 9 J3 Piper Cub 82" wingspan
GoodersGold replied to Halsey's topic in FOR SALE
Do you have any further pictures please? The cowl appears to be a different colour to the rest of the airframe and without exhaust stacks, is this an aftermarket replacement? -
Bruce, I would be very interested in how you are getting along with the battery tray and placement, there does not seem to be a huge amount of room. Currently my ESC is located right in the nose, with a temporary liteply sheet covering this, thinking I can use this as a base for the battery mount. I will be using a 4000mAh 4s battery which only just squeezes in and will be sat "on the slant" due to the internal structure, got any pictures for inspiration?
-
Thanks Bruce
-
I’m putting together a Wot 4 Mk 2 artf (wooden version) and she will be powered with an electric motor. I have lots of E-Fight type foam models, obviously almost exclusively BNF. Down thrust, right thrust is already installed obviously. There is no mention of adding any thrust angles in the manual for the Wot 4, why is this?