Trevor Crook
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Everything posted by Trevor Crook
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Interesting. I've still got my original Mk24 Spitfire which has had hundreds of flights, the only failure has been a retract wearing out. I've also had their Me110, Spitfire Mk1, Me109, Trojan, Tundra and Vampire. My son has had a similar number, and neither of us have had a servo problem, so I guess we have been lucky and you have been unlucky. I did have an elevator servo fail in a Dynam Hurricane though, fortunately during a pre-flight check.
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Nice job, Geoff. That's how I replaced the pilot in my FMS 109 for a better one. It certainly looks a great model, I've been very impressed with Durafly models over the years. Leccyflyer, have you had bad experience with a servo in a Durafly model? I've had loads of artfs from Hobbyking, including many of the Durafly brand, and the only servo issue was with the Durafly P40 flap servos. However, there was a covering note in the kit saying they had had a duff batch, and 2 spare servos were included!
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That's an extreme example! First comparison example I looked up (sourced from kerb weights given by Honest John) : BMW X3 - 2 tonnes; BMW iX3 (electric version) - 2.2 tonnes, so a 10% increase. I think a Tesla Model 3 weighs about 100kg more than a BMW 3 series, version dependent of course.
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Indeed. 1l of fuel contains around 10kWh of energy. My daughter's diesel SUV does around 45mpg, which equates to about 1 mile/kWh. Her husband's larger, faster Tesla Model Y does 3.5 - 4 miles/kWh (depending on the season) so even if all the electrons came from fossil fuels it would "burn" far less. In fact, during the last year only 36% of the UK's electricity came from fossil fuels.
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Very sorry to hear you were a victim of this, just hope you (and the other 1400-odd folks) can get insurance etc. sorted as quickly as possible.
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Took this picture this morning at my 92 year old father in laws house. He had the cereal gift airfield still unopened for decades. Last year my granddaughter was doing a WW2 project at school, and he wrote down his experiences as a wartime child for them, and gave them the diorama to display. They were very impressed by both. Now he doesn't know what to do with it! Don't know why the picture was inserted upside down.
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I built the first 1/24 Spitfire around 1969, when I was 15. I got another a couple of years ago at an antiques centre and started it. Unfortunately I manged to spill glue into the box and ruined the sliding canopy part, so put it all away in disgust. I got inspired by the recent Hornby series which featured the new 1/24 Mk IX, and emailed Airfix to see if they still had any spares for the old kit they could sell me. After a couple of email exchanges with me providing photos of the number on the box and the page in the instruction book, they sent me the appropriate set of transparencies f.o.c. So impressed with the service that I'll probably buy the new kit when I've finished the old one!
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Brilliant! Inspires me to do a bit more on my old Airfix 1/24 Spitfire Mk1. Going more carefully with the glue than when I built the first one - "Plenty of it, flood the cowling!"
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With subscription, I paid £55 for 13 issues, and got a nice hardback WW2 aircraft book thrown in. 13 issues from Smiths would cost £82.55, plus a trip to the town. I think I'll keep subscribing.
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I thought you'd get a year's warranty on the whole transmitter, you even get 2 years from Als Hobbies. They list genuine replacement batteries as "available to order", but who knows how long that will take!
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Robert, out of interest, is the replacement battery being provided under warranty?
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Just looked at Peter's original Ohmen thread, photos at the beginning show the construction, there's room for air to go up past the battery tray. The hole in the cockpit floor hasn't been cut in the bare wood photo, but can be seen in later pictures of the finished model.
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Been a while since I built mine, but as I recall the plan does cater for cooling. Air entry is via the hole in the front of the cowl, below the spinner. I think there is a hole in the firewall below the motor through to the ESC compartment, then holes in the battery bay floor to let the air flow upwards. Finally it can exhaust via the hole in the cockpit floor shown in Earlybird's photo.
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Reliability of FRsky Tandem X20S
Trevor Crook replied to Sam Longley's topic in Gadgets and Electronics
I know two people with X20 tandems and both work well. They look very well made. Even the cheapy QX7 I've got has a nice feel, with smooth joystick operation. I found OpenTx a bit challenging to program though, so after a dabble went back to using my Spektrum stuff, which I find easy to program (albeit I am used to it) and has never given any bother. -
Love the colour scheme and the very neat I.c. installation.
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Wood Glue......Which do you prefer?
Trevor Crook replied to dave parnham's topic in All Things Model Flying
Another vote for Gorilla wood glue, as said above you don't have to apply it from the bottle. I often use a combination of wood glue and cyano. I run a bead of wood glue, leaving small gaps into which I put drops of medium cyano. If held together briefly this avoids using pins. Using purely cyano is expensive and I find the joints a bit brittle. I too haven't had much joy with canopy glue, so I use UHU Por, which seems to grab and stick much better. It is a bit stringy, but cleans off of acetate nicely using meths. It's also foam friendly if that's relevant to the job. -
Had mine for more than a year now, no problems. I use it for instruction with the wireless trainer to my Gen2 DX8, which has also been excellent. I found that leaving the screen back-light permanently on is more convenient, and doesn't impact the run time too much.
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Retracts - speed of movement. ??
Trevor Crook replied to John Wagg's topic in All Things Model Flying
Electric retracts will start to move when the signal pulse length crosses a threshold, probably around 1.5ms. If you feed each unit with a different curve, you could set it so the threshold is crossed at a different time for each unit, resulting in a staggered retract between each retract, as Frank has described. I wondered whether the threshold varied significantly between each unit, so I tried slowing the retract output on my Nx8 to a few seconds to try to make one unit trigger before the other on a single channel, but there was no noticeable delay. -
Spektrum DX9- DSM2 as well as DSMX?
Trevor Crook replied to Tosh McCaber's topic in All Things Model Flying
Tosh, how light is it, an indoor type? I use AR410s when I am short of space, great little Rx for about £25. If its a really lightweight indoor type this may be too big, and the servos may have micro connectors. -
That's interesting, Simon. I thought if you charged a lipo cold (to, say, 4.1V), when it warmed up the voltage could go higher, which is bad. Could be wrong, would be nice to have a battery chemist to explain best practise.
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Performance loss in cold weather is very real, batteries produce electricity via a chemical reaction, and chemical reactions are less vigorous the lower the temperature. Just look at any of the EV videos comparing summer and winter range.
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This may be adaptable to make a heated box, no thermostatic control but there's a posher version with a temperature readout. Not sure if 7W would heat the batteries much, but may keep them warm if they have been pre-warmed indoors for a while. Love Big Clive's videos!
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I'm scratch building, and the parts seem fine cut from the free plan. My son is building from the Sarik parts, I'll alert him to the potential issue, thanks.
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That's three of us then - my son is building one from a Sarik wood set he got on Ebay. I'll post some pics of my progress.
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Surprised no one here has apparently built one of these, especially as Sarik sell a woodpack.