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George Worley - 4-Max

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  1. Not sure why you didn't talk to us as your first port of call. If we sold them as V2 then they are V2. there is no difference in the markings to distinguish between a V1 and a V2. You say that the outlet is chocked down 85-90%, is the compaired to the fan diameter or to the FSA? Any reduction of the exhaust tube will greatly reduce the thrust but it will increase the air speed. If you want more thrust increase the diameter of the exhaust tube. Is the inlet ring still fitted? We recommend a 60C good quality battery, like one of ours I would also try a 4S 2600mAh if you have the room. Have you set the ESC to "high" timing? Is the battery fully charged when conducting these tests? Battery temperature at this time of the year will affect it's performance. Is the battery warm, around 20 degrees when conducting the tests? The figures we quote are in free air with the inlet ring and at nominal voltage. As soon as you fit it in a model those figures will drop and it will vary from model to model. Hope this helps
  2. Hi Nigel For good funfly/3D flying you should be looking at a 1.75 to 2.00 to 1 power to weight ratio So if your model weighs for example 500g you should be looking for 875-1000g of static thrust We no longer refere to watts and watts per pound as from experience we find this not a good indication of performance. If you used our products then the nearest test results we have are as follows We haven't tested it with a 13x4, the top speed of a 13x4 may be too low at around 36MPH 13x5 JXF High performance Wooden prop 14.8V under load 33.2A at 14.8V 8955RPM Measured static thrust 2987g/6.59lbs Estimated top speed 42MPH To get the best flight performance you need the lightest possible setup. Funflys generally have short noses so you need to get the motor as far forward as possible, then work out how much weight you need to get the model to balance. based upon that weight choose a battery near that weight. We recommend the smallest battery for a funfly/3d model to be around 15 x max Amps In this case 33.2/15 = 2.21 so Look at the weight of a 4S 2200mAh LiPo Cheap LiPo's don't last and they don't perform even if the "specification" is the same. Try one of our 60C LiPo's you won't be dissapoinrted. https://www.4-max.co.uk/lipos.htm George 4-Max
  3. Hi Simon Hobbywing timing is set to "low" as defaiult. Outrunners require high timing for maximum performance. Change the timing to "High" and see the difference George
  4. Hi Tosh, Yes that motor will work, check out this page for more info on that motor combination https://www.4-max.co.uk/A2212-10T-1400kv.htm
  5. Hi Allan, Yes our ESC are not the same as your average ESC. Firstly they use a 32bit processor, unlike most of our competitors who have the cheaper and slower 16 bit processors. This means our ESC's are more efficient and can deal better with high RPM motors as in EDF applications. Secondly I have personally tested our ESC's with a battery length of 1M and have had zero problems. Our manufacturer has designed around the old problem buy better design and the use of better/more resilient components.
  6. Hi Guys As per a lot of hobby shops we are still accepting and sending out order to UK customers. We are not accepting visitors at this time. We have added a lot of accessories lately to help the budding builders out there. Please click here for our accessories Need a hand in selecting an electric motor for your latest project? then please drop us an email with as much information as you have and then we can advise the correct motor, ESC, prop, battery and even servos if needed. Please click here to visit our website Stay Safe George
  7. Hi Guys Like many on here we are also Peter Miller fans and have started to put together electric power train setups for Peter Miller Designs (with Peter's help and approval), Some are old and some haven't been released yet - Something to wet your appetites. **LINK** If you want an electric setup for a design that is not on the list, please get in contact (via our website is best) and we'll be glad to put together a complete system for you.
  8. Posted by Steve Bell 3 on 20/03/2015 17:15:21: If like me your building the pusher version beware the recommended motors have been discontinued. Darn it We do have alternative motors for the pusher version which are slightly less powerful but after chatting to Tony this really should not be a problem as the original motors were very powerful
  9. Hi Nigel Looking forward to seeing progress on this thread - Subscribed! George
  10. Hi BEB,You may want to re-visit your horizontal stabiliser - Sorry! Tony made a small error in his drawings and drew the elevators wrong. have a look at Trevor Crooks photos, his are correct, you'll see what I mean. Tony blew up this drawing for me and now myself and Colin Low are building 2 off 100" versions, both for electric power. We hope to get them built for around 25lbs and have around 3500W on 12S. So far we have built the tail feathers and have made a plug and cowls, next job is the fuselarge. The plug and cowls must have taken us over 80 hours of work so far. You are doing a very nice job here, keep up the good work. Edited By George Worley - 4-Max on 17/08/2013 17:49:12
  11. The Jungmeister and DH-89A Dragon Rapide are both owned by Ian Gear of the Isle of Wight and are powered by Purple Power motors from 4-Max. The Lancaster is owned by Colin Low (Purple Powered), The DC3 belongs to Roy Thompson, the Tigercat is mine (Purple Powered) and the 10S version of the H9 Taylorcraft and the Siamese Funjet belongs to Chris Bradbury. The 6S version of the Tailorcraft belongs to Bob Mahony. Roy, Colin, Chris and myself are all members of the Basingstoke Model Aero Club who are holding their annual Electric Fly-in on the 15th of September. It's generally well attended and we have a great field, so come along and have a fly.
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