ASH.

As Jon says, Thunderbolt P-47 fly very well. No nasty vices! Seagull do one in 20cc size, it's a manageable size. Fit a good 120 4st or Laser 100. There is an excellent thread on here by Tim Flyer. A Chipmunk is classed as a warbird and was a trainer in full- size.

If you are an avid sports fan then these cancellations such as Rugby, football etc. is sure going to disappoint, upset and anger some. Same as the other difficulties threatening financial security etc. Well, this is "life & death" stuff and we need to get our priorities right! I have found my anger is up there when I go out there. Don't know why.

Dai, it's because we don't like to be controlled. I pay my subs and I will fly when I want. There's been just too much dithering with the gov. No containment whatsoever! They were so many flights from Italy last Sunday with Italians escaping, no checks, they all just disappeared in the crowd. This is a cull now, only the fittest will survive! They want more people to catch it and recover so we have 'herd immunity'. Edited By ASH. on 13/03/2020 16:43:10

Posted by Gary Manuel on 12/03/2020 18:25:43: I'm no expert but I'm inclined to disagree. It's outdoors in the fresh air. Modellers don't normally cuddle each other, so as long as everyone keeps a reasonable distance, they should be fine. Probably safer at the field than going shopping or to the garden centre with Mrs Modeller. Absolutely! Nothing better than being out in the fresh air. Also, if people have health conditions and don't want to risk it - then they don't go!

Tim, this a model flying forum - it's no place for 'transoms' or 'bilge drain valves' on here. Please have some respect! This is big boys stuff.. As you say the air inside is moving to a larger lower presuure area. The lip is to speed up and distrupt the air causing it to be sucked out into the fast slipstream. If it's a simple rectangular exit hole then a half inch triangular Balsa stock glued on l/e of hole should do it. It it's a complex cutout like on your XL then a thick piece of string following the shape will achieve the same. To get maximum extraction perhaps a lip on the inside and out would work best.. Or they may cancel each other out, I will get to the bottom of this, I know some aerodynamic graduates. That's what makes this hobby fun for me too - I can get really anal about things! Ps. Would love to know how you do water cooling on model marine engines!. BTW. Fins on outside do work like on the Sukhoi cowl.   Edited By ASH. on 10/03/2020 15:44:17

There's an awful lot of air in the slipstream to disrupt. We need a fluid dynamics expert.. 🙂

I disagree, I don't think it would be pointless to have it on the inside. You have fast moving hot air in there which can be trapped if the exit hole is not big enough. Both ways work, it's just in a scale model I would prefer if it's hidden.

Hi Tim, the baffles are fine to direct the air to the cylinders, in fact they are a 'must' on fully cowled engines. I will do the same as yours on my Chipmunk and another couple of models. What I was referring to was the spoiler. You put yours on the outside and it looks neat in Aluminium but it can also be put on the inside. What I'd like to find out is which is more effecient. Thanks for the info on the paint. I will try it out. Edited By ASH. on 10/03/2020 08:39:57

  I wonder what's aerodynamically more efficient for helping move hot air out of the cowl. When I come to do baffles I'll put the lip (ramp) on the inside. It believe it creates a vortex of fast air which then gets sucked out. Any aerodynamists out there.? The light Ali mesh is a great idea as it can me molded to shape. Rather than matting I'm sure cloth or tape would do. Tim, need to pick your brains on paint choice for your Chipmunk cowl. Did you do any tests on the fuel proof of it?     Edited By ASH. on 09/03/2020 20:28:19

Thanks for that Tim. I've often wondered what best material to use for baffles. Now I know. Nice metalwork!

Your post made me laugh Jon.. It seems your Hurri is a bit of a wild thing when it comes for her to settle down. Taming her is the challenge - one that will give you much satisfaction when you finally make her succumb.. I have a similar problem with a high wing sports model where rudder becomes quite ineffective at low speed. It frustrates me as I keep forgetting to blip the throttle, not that it would make much difference that quickly. Another thought - on a seperate switch have just elevator on high rates and opposite expo so sensitivity is increased and activate few feet off the ground.

Just a thought.. What if on finals you came in from height - full flaps down, quarter throttle, rudder opposite aileron and down elevator keeping the nose pointed down all the way . Just before touch down centralise controls engine on idle and land on the mains. No flair. That way you're manhandling it all the way down, just requires finesse . It looks like this model can't be floated down

LOL.. Sorry Andy but that is the worst covering job I've ever seen! I can't understand how you managed to get it like that, I suspect either the surface was uneven or the first layer was not stuck down properly and subsequent layers added to the problem. Glad you have managed to put it right. Show us some pics. Ps. I have little patience with covering jobs and end up doing it multiple times.

Hello Peter, glad to know your free upgrade went well. The difference in speed you see is because of the new SSD. They run up to x5 faster than the old HDD's. Do remember to uncheck and disable as much as you can - like Cortana and updates. 'britec' on youtube explains it well. I'm staying with Win7 for now and looking into Linux.

Right gents, this could be a long one so make yourself comfortable, and use this as bedtime reading. Firstly, my thanks to the OP for starting this thread - it has spurred me on to do something about my computer. I have been on Win7 Pro now for 8-9yrs with no problems and was adamant I was not going to change. Now that support has been stopped it's got me concerned. I have been doing some research these past two weeks and found many who detest Win10 and wish they still had Win7, but because of security I have come to the decision to 'bite the bullet' and relent. Reading Gary's post above has got me thinking again.. Is there a way around this? An IT expert informs me that even with a paid Kaspersky anti-virus I'm still leaving myself open to threats. BTW free Avast sell your data. I've read that Win7 is going to be alright for the next 6mths or so as long as you don't go onto dodgy sites. I've only had a few red flag warning come up over the years. Last one was from a Google search page advert banner for Adidas trainers that were much cheaper than elsewhere. Also some high-end ludicrously cheap rc products from the Far East. My laptop is a high-spec Sony which I paid a lot of money for. Most people would consider it 'old' but it does everything I need and I have no wish to get a new one - even if it was offered free! Only thing I've done was upgrade to 8GB RAM. It has developed a couple of problems now. Firstly, it overheats and shuts down frequently. This is because of dust build-up on the fan. It is easily fixed by opening it up, vacuuming and using compressed air. I have done it once before and it make a big difference. Second problem is sometimes when I close the lid and open it up I get a black screen. The computer is on but cannot get the screen working so I have to remove the battery and boot up again. It's probably a loose connection to the lid, so will have to seen by a professional. As I am going to Win10 I have decided to replace the old drive to Solid State Drive. I have everything I need now to do the major overhaul. SSD, USB/SATA lead, compressed air, MX-2 Thermal Compound and new battery. The thermal paste is essential for heat transfer from CPU and GPU to the cooling pipes. There's a whole science behind that.. the tech geeks and gamers on youtube help with that. So, initially, I wanted to do a 'clean install' without any 'bloatware' - but transferring files over was going to be a pain - a task I don't want to undertake. I don't want to loose anything - I want everything working as it is. My laptop is fast enough as it is. So, it's going to have to be a copy and then I'll just trim down Win10 as much as I can. Win10 runs slower than Win7. I will have the Pro version so I can control the 'updates'. Windows do two major updates a year that's when things can go wrong. I'd rather defer them for a couple of months till they get the bugs sorted out. At the end of the day it's all about 'Control'- I hate any machine having total control. My pet hate is seat belt warning alarms. Glad my car doesn't have it, otherwise I'd be cutting wires! For me, my computer is just a tool, a very useful one beit.. I've realised my files/folders are quite disorganised. I'm going to have to devote some time and learn how to file properly and make it a habit. Another chore. Also, Disable Cortana. She listens in and reports everything back to HQ. Linus Mint was suggested to me and offered on a memory stick. I'll download it for a later date maybe. Also, you can run Win7 as VM (virtual memory) within Linus - way beyond my skills at the moment. My problem is I have such little patience with computers.. unlike my RC gear. I'm not IT savvy and would not dare mess about with 'registry' and such but I've come to realise I'm not overwhelmed with much of it. It's just tedious and time consuming. Wish me luck.

"The tail is very sensitive with only about 3mm elevator movement needed in normal flight. The problem is that little movement is not enough for landing but adding more makes the transition between flying speed and landing speed difficult" Can you not have a throttle/elevator mix on a switch for landing?

Cillit Bang (purple) works well to shift the grunge with the aid of a non-scratch scourer.

Posted by Jason Channing on 15/01/2020 21:14:47: I always use synthetic but I use the klotz oils which is certainly more forgiving than ML70 which by todays standards is quite old technology and things have improved a long way over 35 years since ml70 was first produced. Would I use ml70 in aYS or other good engine ...NO   Thanks Jason, I thought I was the only one!.. I have seen a marked difference between the two oils. The Klotz makes my 4st engines run so much smoother. It's got to be down to quality., no other explanation. Now, if MT made a ready mixed 10% Klotz, 5% Nitro at a decent price I would go for it - and stick to it.   Edited By ASH. on 18/01/2020 08:39:09

Totally Agree.. I build my artf's to last and seal all visible wood with clearcoat after strengtening. By the way - who did you get your clearcoat from at W&W? Does finishing epoxy really add enough strenght without cloth? Edited By ASH. on 11/01/2020 22:40:40

That is a neat interior, just how I like mine... and roomy too. I have wiring tied-up and tucked away properly as well. Yes, I can see you've been at it with the finishing epoxy - on the inside!

You don't do anything by half measures do you Tim? You must get through an awful lot of epoxy.. I always fix weights (when I absolutely have to ie in wing for lateral balance) with velcro. But you're right - an ounce here or there is not going to make much difference on a model that size. What size LiFe's did you use and how are they rigged with the two switches to Rx to make the redundant system? I hope the varnish and clear spray you used work well, do keep us informed. If you want to fly your Chipmunk anytime sooner, you can fly at my club patch in East London anytime..

Great job Tim, she looks superb. She's quite a heavy bird at 14lbs, (don't know how much my one weighs with Saito 120S plus lead). You could place your RX battery as far down into the tail as possible and remove the 50gms.

The Silhouette looks nice Paul. What paint did you use on the cowl? And what film?

Best way to do it Tim. Once a project is started it is best to carry on 'till completed otherwise it can drag on for ages.. months.. sometimes years! Yes, looking at the pics I can see your previous boat building skills have come into use. The dark wood inside fuse looks like 'antique Teak'.

Looking good Tim, I'm just surprised at the speed at which you build. You must be at it full-time! I have been extolling the use of 'Clearcoat' for years now -- for fuel proofing and sealing film edges. I use it on the firewall inside and out, tank bay and inside of fuselage, usually two coats. It not only fuel proofs but seals and strenghtens the wood. It does add on weight so I must remember to take it easy next time. It is a synthetic resin made for the job. Also excellent for film edges, a painstaking task - well worth doing. Shame it's not made anymore, maybe Guild Paints Finishing Lacquer is as good. Tim, I know you can't help epoxying fuselage insides.. Did you use fibreglass cloth as well.? What weight cloth do you normally use? BTW, I love the bubblegum smell of Clearcoat. Tim, if you haven't bought the Oracover and Solartex yet - have a look at Solarfim Glosstex. A smooth strong heavy covering.