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Simon Chaddock

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Posts posted by Simon Chaddock

  1. Basil

    I am not quite sure to what you are referring but are aware the LM0033 is only a "rate" stabilised receiver.

    As such it has no "auto" stabilisation feature so there is no setting up required for the plane to be in the correct attitude prior to switch on however like any gyro system you have to ensure its reaction any sudden deviation moves the controls in the correct sense to counter it.

    The stabilisation thus limits the rate at which the model deviates in roll, pitch and yaw when the deviation has not been commanded.

    The result is well trimmed flight is much smoother however recovery from any attitude to straight and level is entirely down to the pilot.


    I have several such "Stab" receivers. They certainly reduce the stress in a maiden flight, particularly if it is an "own" design.😉 

    I hope this helps


  2. I would like to give a huge thank you to John and the other members of the DVMFC for a wonderful days flying. 

    In my case some of my planes were a bit more successful that others. The Southerly wind and turbulence was a bit more than some of my lightweight can readily handle. However this was not the case on the first plane which was absolutely my own fault. I forgot to extend the aerial on the 35 meg TX. ☹️

    Never mind they will all fix.

    Thanks again.  

    • Like 1
  3. Toto

    With such a large and heavy plane I would not worry too much about the flight time.

    I think you will find 5 minutes will be plenty long enough to start with. If you haven't crashed within the first 2 minutes of a flight you probably won't but the longer the flight the chances of making an error rise.

    The critical part is always the circuit & landing. Compared to a flight duration it doesn't take that long but it is critical and needs to be mastered. Shorter flights will mean you keep within battery limitations and you get more landing practise.

    • Like 1
  4. toto

    An important part of building is working out the best way to get round any mistakes you have made. 

    After all when the plane is all finished no one will see an extra joint or two that was not shown on the plan. 😉

    • Like 1
  5. Toto

    A properly located E clip in a sharp edged groove should be better than a collet as it provides 3 physical points to prevent the wheel sliding off the axle. A collet on the other hand basically relies on the grub screw generating friction between the axle and the collet. A collet would only match the restraining power of an E clip if its grub screw located into a matching conical indent on the axle.

    • Like 1
  6. Nice.

    Of course like all model Pups the nose is too long.

    Even electric struggle when the batteries are squeezed into the cowling.

    It does rather show just how relatively heavy the period rotaries were and how lightly built the tail end was.

  7. In my experience the cheap "plug and play" ESCs do have an LVC but it is not programmable so you have no way of knowing what it is actually set at. Whilst a single LVC event may not damage the LiPo repeated LVC activation probably will. 

    it is thus best to avoid relying on the LVC and actually measure the end of flight at rest battery voltage. If above 3.7V/cell then the next full charge flight can be extended a bit but also take into account the power settings used in the flight.  

  8. It can be an issue running a model IC. 

    I ran my Dad's home built 5cc 4 stroke petrol in my garden just to prove it still worked.

    A couple of days later my neighbour knocked on the door and offered me two boxed unused ASP 46 for free that he no longer had any use for.



    • Like 1
  9. Welcome

    You should be able to get plenty of advice here. You are certainly learning to fly on the right aircraft

    Is your Seagull Arising Star IC or electric?

    I strongly suggest you just keep admiring the Macchi Veltro for quite some time before you will have acquired both the knowledge and ability to fly it and not wrecking it.

  10. In principle unless you dramatically increase the wing and power loadings the incidences should remain the same. After all going from 54" to 6ft span is not a particularly big size increase.

    I would be more concerned about any structural changes that might required to handle the extra weight and to ensure the appropriate airframe stiffness was maintained.  

  11. 58 minutes ago, Richard Thornton 2 said:


    The floats I want to cover are already starting to put on weight

    It does depend on the nature of the way the polystyrene is moulded but it should be fully water proof.

    One of the worst things you can do with polystyrene with a water immersion situation is to paint it. Unless the paint oil based and several layer thick the paint will not be fully water proof so over time water will get in and lodge in the poly styrene cells with no way of ever drying out.

    In other words any covering of foam has to be fully water proof in its own right. The total weight of the end result could be significantly heavier than the original foam.

    In some respects a hollow float is better than a solid foam one in that if it does leak then it is at least possible to get the water out again.   

    • Thanks 1
  12. I recently resurrected a Depron plane that had sat in my loft for at least 2 years and having been built from parts of a Cessna Skymaster O2 (Vietnam special ops) it was already "old" even then. It has been given the name "Cessna Bits".  

    Nothing clever just simple and light. 38.5" (980mm) span it weighs 13 oz (370g) with a 1500mAh 3s on board. 


    An Emax 2822 1200kV motor drives a 9x6 prop. This provides both true unlimited vertical as well as being remarkably efficient at low power. In fact it is so much fun to fly I have never tried to find out just  how long its "cruise" duration might be. Probably close to 30 minutes. 



    • Like 1
  13. Not happy with Spektrum Smart batteries and plugs. It smacks of specifically designing unique for commercial reasons.

    The XT range of 3 connectors and JST-HX balance plugs have become pretty universal on ordinary LiPo batteries. 

    • Like 1
  14. If everything else seems OK It is possible that cooking the windings has caused a short circuit one or more of the winding to the metal armature. In this case the motor will behave as if the ESC brake is on. The faster you turn it the more the resistance.

    Still unrepairable unless you completely rewind the motor so it is a bin job.


    Moral of story all ways shut the throttle in a crash and preferably do so before you hit the ground! Not so easy to do as it needs a conscious effort as you are usually busy doing the utmost to stop it hitting the ground.      

    • Like 2
  15. Yesterday was very warm but rather gusty so I waited until 7pm for the thermic activity to die down. It was till gusty so I flew my trusty own design Big Dragon.

    A simple pylon wing, pod and boom, pusher design built from a combination of a printed pod, pylon and wing ribs and skinned in 3mm Depron. Its layout specifically intended for rough grass landings and to keep the fingers clear of the prop for hand launching..


    A 2800mAh 3s just fits in the nose. The ESC is in the pylon with built in cooling ducts. It has simple AET controls with tiny 3.7g servos. On 35 Meg the long aerial goes inside the glass fibre boom and trails out the back.  

    With an emphasis on light weight & aerodynamic cleanliness although never intended as a "glider" it does glide pretty well. It has considerable power available (180W/lb) yet it can fly on surprisingly little so yesterday's flight from 7:55pm to 8:31pm gave a satisfactory 36 minutes with power on all the time except for the circuit and landing.

    The LVC did not kick in and at the end the cells were still showing 3.7V at rest.  


  16. Remember for NiMH it is not balance charging as with a LiPo so it does not need to know the number of cells. The maximum it can handle is the voltage from 15 cells

    You set the appropriate charge rate (1c?) for the battery cell capacity concerned. The charger than charges until it detects the "delta peak" effect and stops. 

    Select NiMH


    Press START and set the charging current using the middle buttons 


    Press start and briefly hold start. The charging screen looks like this.


    It works for me and I have never actually charged a single NIMH before on my B6.

    hope this helps.


    • Like 1
  17. I still favour planking, ship building style, for complex curved fuselage skins. As long as the formers are the correct shape and size the final curvature is a smooth transition nose to tail.

    Some sanding to completely smooth the plank joins and that's it.

    This AN2 fuselage has substantial flat areas. It almost like building in balsa old style except 3mm sheet foam and printed formers in this case.

    First formers.


    All the formers.


    The skin complete.


    Maybe not everybody's cup of tea but it works for me.


    • Like 2
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