Boots

i assumed you can ONLY charge through the balance lead, that is its purpose, if you charge from the power leads an unbalanced charge is sure to occur.

Hi, over the years i have used various 27 and 35 non programmable tx. also over the years my brain cells have depleted too. I seriously cannot get my head around all the modes and telemetry. the heading describes frsky as open source, this seemed attractive in the same way i use linux and not windows. what i believe i am looking for, 1. 2.4ghz 2. a common std rx protocol so i dont end up with a tx requiring rare and expensive rx's. 3. i wish to use 2 or 3 brushless motors, twin star/ tristar, i will need to mix them together onto 1 stick. guess an onboard mixer between rx and esc's wouldnt work. 4. 6ch no more ? well 8 perhaps 5. prog tx with display could prove fiddlely, i cant read displays in bright sunlight , during flight i will not be wearing reading glasses ! i live in cyprus i WILL be wearing sunglasses. yup you guessed it when driving cant read anything on the instrument panel. i hope i have given you enough infomation boots

am i odd ? when flying 3ch i am mode 4, but flying 4 ch i am mode 2. basically i like throttle on left finger and Primary controls on right. my first radio a macGregor digimac 3 must have been mode2/4 ?

I have always used cheap motors and escs and lipos. living in cyprus overhating can be a problem so some of my esc"s I have fitted heat sinks. cheap esc are made to a price my 20amp one had 2 mosfets rated to 10.5 amps each so running it at 20amps is a bad idea (21amp max). when rewinding a motor I have found the rated 15amps is not a good idea when you calculate the size of the wires. what I am saying is hopefully expensive equipment can run allday at rated max but cheap stuff needs to be down rated a bit. I dont a gree with running at max spec because one small surge and the plane goes home in a shopping bag Be nice to your equipment and it will be nice to you

Many years ago I had a mishap with a paw 1cc diesel, went to A&E had stiches and scar on wrist to prove it. thinking it was one of the first 1cc paw's supplied with a carburator. I do understand we live in a world of extreme caution and fear of being sued for anything but surely most people realise sticking your finger in a running prop is a bad idea and if you do it then you only do it once !!!!! huh try a davies charlton diesel with starting spring, ouch, ouch and ouch again

steve from your first post I would think the atricle was an aerial amp (rf preamp ) which takes the weaker signal from a base loaded aerial and amplifys it, although you can boost the signal to its original strength it will be a noisey signal, maybe distorting the channel infomation, also the rx aerial input will have an agc (automatic gain control ) a preamp may not suit all agc's. suck it and see, we can ponder over electronics theory till the cows come home, if it works great, if not try a different choke, or wind a few coils yourself and try them

I live in Cyprus and it gets hot here, never had trouble with my 35Mhz gear but I do put my lipos in a cool box sometimes with one small ice block sometimes without .the hotter you run them the shorter their life

Working in electronics I used a lot of 4mm banana plugs, so when I came to electric flight I looked at these fiddly untidy looking deans, said no, and used 4mm bullets. I have never used deans so dont know how good they are, although almost everyone at the field does use them

I know im a bit late with this, but I worked in an electronics workshop for 20 years or so, so i know what works for me. a Weller 40w tcp iron, select tips for size and temperature. I shudder to think what the price of my iron is now !!!! I just looked weller magnastat tcp 50w without transformer 80 to 100 quid eeek I prefer old fashioned lead solder. gun type irons which are basically a hand held transformer I strongly recommend against, they can induce eddy currents in the wire which will travel along the wire and distroy semiconductors you dont need an iron which is the heat of the sun for big jobs, a good temperature controlled iron will do. cheap irons get far too hot but when you go to use them cool down very quickly. I have a cheap iron which looks similar to the hobby king one, there is poor thermal transfer between the element and tip. I have found Antex irons to work well and good value for money dont skimp on the iron as a poor joint could cost you a plane and all the bits inside it !!!!!

God bless the guy who invented this style of prop saver, he has saved me a fortune in props

I use 35mhz only and and all but one of my rx`s are single conversion I have little to no problems. I cant afford 2.4 and whilst my 35 works fine I can see no point to change dual conversion rx`s are superior to single , so if you have one I would recommend using it. it will need a special dual con xtal !! Dont forget the all important range check, running the motor at all speeds too I have a fairly rigid layout I use as viewed along fus. motor then esc then lipo, then a gap as big as possible, servos and finally rx with aerial continuing on back . all cables are as short as possible, all servo leads are arft of the " gap" . all cables are neat and tidy and securly fixed. I live in Cyprus so I tend to fit addional heatsinks to esc`s so they are securly mounted, I hear some people fly with esc loose and floating about !!!!!! with my eqipment if a servo lead is loose and next to the esc then glitches are guanteed hope this helps Louis

Emax motors are not the best made motors so care with the wires is required. I have had 1 of the 3 wires break a number of times, I put it down to my bad flying. so I re wound them an esc floating about in the fus, eek would not last long with my flying !( landing). Re soldering I put a hot tip in my iron and use plumbers active flux, once tinned I shake off the excess solder then use normal tip and flux to clean the acid flux off, plumbers flux is corrosive and will damage the wire in time.

It is very annoying they dont call a spade a SPADE. why call it 3.17 mm it is 1/8" . I try to avoid motors which have imperial size bearings.

Yes these motors are excellent value and I have had 4 for almost 3 years now but the mounting is a problem, I use a red plumbing thread adhesive, a lot like loctite i guess, it is well suited to filling gaps but is not so strong that it wont come appart. you are right simon it is better to have end float than preload. I really like these motors they have metric bearings which are cheap and easy to obtain, 3mm shafts ( strip down an old computer cd rom or dvd player almost all have 2 long 3mm shats inside) and they are easy to rewind and work very well afterwards. Learning to fly these motors took a tremendous pounding. The motors are made to a price so the quality control is not 100%, but who cares if they are so cheap !!

I have been using emax 2812 motors for couple of years now and despite their low price, 7 euros from himodel china, they seem very good. on 7x6 they take 13a to 15a , 8x4 is too much, maybe an 8x3 just !!Re ESC rating I would recommend 25/30 amp, 50% safety margin !!!!!!I burnt out an esc when I "landed" my plane in the sea !!!!!!! this is a big dont do. I opened this 20amp super simple esc and found it had 2 negative and 2 positive mosfets on each motor wire , the mosfet manufactors spec was 10.5amp maximum, so it had a maximum rating of 21 amps, so for a 13/15a motor it was just enough. I have found cheap equipment to be good and reliable , just leave a safety margin.