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Snorbitz

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Everything posted by Snorbitz

  1. I knew i should've stayed with 35mhz...If it ain't broke don't fix it!!!!!!!!
  2. I take it yours has jack?......this country has gone mad!!......soon it'll be too dangerous to play football in the park in case we trip over. We'll only be allowed to cuddle the trees. I can't wait to emigrate!!
  3. My lad's not a club member yet so it'll be the local parkand playing field to start with. His first go on the simulator at the weekend was mightly impressive for a 9 year old.....within an hour he was taking off, doing circuits and loops, some of them intentional some not, but he seems to have the left/right coming towards you thing sorted out too so thats a big hurdle we shouldn't have to cross. Could i have done that at his age....mmmmm possibly not but then i wasn't bought up in the Playstation era!
  4. Thanks for the pointers guys. Sadly Santa's on a tighter buget than that this year (aren't we all) and i'm thinking that maybe the GWS Beaver with perhaps the E-Sky combo pack which includes a 20amp speed controller, 2 servos and a reciever might be ok and should get him flying for around £60?. Do we think this would work? I really like he Multiplex Easystar idea too and at only £40-£50 its a real possibility AND its on my simulator!!
  5. Hi Chaps My 9 year old has expressed an interest in learning to fly and i thnk the electric route may be the way fwd. As i'm an IC flyer (sorry to mention that word here) i'm not too up on which model i should be looking at. My intention is for him use my tx and i have a spare JR77S reciever i could use if its not too weighty. I think with the aid of my simulator he could stretch to the use of ailerons but 3ch would also be fine. He quite likes the Phoenix Rainbow but i think financially it might be a little out of Santas reach by the time Lipo's and motors are purchased. I've seen some kits by GWS that come with motors and batteries etc which look ok but any comments would be very much appreciated. Cheers Paul
  6. Well a 1/4 turn out on the idle screw seems to have done the trick. Seems a lot more perky. I might get the guys at the club to breath on it just to be sure but i think its there or there-abouts now so thanks very much for the pointer. PS did i mention its absolutely perfect out there.....5mph wind straight down the strip.
  7. I'm lucky to have a strip just 1 minutes drive from work so i fuel/charge up at tea break to save time then pop over at lunch and can usually get about 40 mins in before stopping to clean down and pack away.I'm trying to work on my touch n go's at the moment so the weather this week has been great.....monday was a bit windy/bumpy so i just did circuits and a couple of landings..good practice for me though, and its looking good again today although its a bit murky out there. The weather's looking good for the rest of this week and into next but the wind will be getting up again end of next week.
  8. Yeah that makes sense really........i've got the idle screw set just below the top of the tube so maybe it just wants to come out another 1/2-1 turn.  Its Model Technics Irvine Contest 10 fuel with 18% klotz oil........seems to run on it ok but my word its messy......and very orange.!! I'm flying at lunch time so i'll give it a tweak before i go and see how it responds. I also found that it prefers the OS A3 plug to the OS No8 i tried in it for a few flights.
  9. Cheers chaps.......can i just throw this at you and see what you think. I've now wound the idle screw out to the point where i no longer get dead sticks and there is a very slight haze of smoke from the exhaust at idle. When i open the throttle there is almost like a dead spot before it picks up and takes longer than i would expect to get to full grunt.........the problem is less noticable when its hot (straight after landing). Winding the high speed needle out doesn't seem to help much and makes it "splutter" more than it should. I don't know if its just me but it seem quite thirsty too......15 mins flight is down to 10 mins now. It would indicate too rich but i'm not so sure. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
  10. Cheers Grant, There's no reason why that shouldn't work so i'll give it a go tonight and see what we get. The other thing i noticed was how easy the idle screw was to turn, should there be any o-rings on it?, i seem to remember a spring but that was it, i would say it could probably turn just with engine vibration which is a bit of a worry.
  11. Having flown trouble free for a few dozen flights i was suddenly faced with my first "dead stick" right out of the blue. Having landed safely (just) i thought i better have a good look into what was going on. When i got back to the pits the first thing i noticed was that the fuel pipe to the carb was empty despite there being plenty of fuel in the tank....if i re-primed the carb and started it up the engine would run for a few seconds then cut out again so when i got home i checked all the plubing and changed any suspect bits and still no joy so i decided to strip the carb down. I removed the hight speed needle and the low speed and blew it all through with an air line. What looked like a piece of fluff which i now suspect was some old felt filter media shot out of the small brass fuel pipe connector inlet., great i thought thats the problem sorted. Re-built the carb and tried again...Nothing!! After some more research i discovered that in curing one problem i had caused another. When i rebuilt it i had wound the idle needle all the way in...stupid boy!!, so i've now wound it back out and while the engine runs ok above half throttle its a pig to start and frequently cuts out below half throttle especially when warmed up. While there is a general rule of 2-2.5 turns out for the high speed needle i can't find any rules/info for the idle needle because i'm sure thats where my problem now lies. Cheers
  12. Cheers for the advice chaps....i'm lucky enough to have access to various metals at work, stainless/silver steel and even some titanium rod but people tell me that  they would all be too brittle and if bent would not bend back with snapping but i might try a few different metals and see if i can't find something suitable. I'll post any good results. I might go up a wheel size and also change to a rubber wheel to see if that helps take some of the strain away... The grass strips i fly from i would say were good/average in terms of smoothness so perhaps the bigger wheels will ride the bumps better.
  13. Having flown my Boomerang Trainer for a couple of months now i'm very happy with the performance and durability of the model. That is apart from the undercarriage.....despite its 4mm thinkness the front and main legs all bend on even the lightest of landings and its a real pain having to straighten them out before nearly every flight. Trying to do this in-situ puts too much stress on the main body but taking it off all the time is a real pain. Does anyone have any suggestions as to a replacment wire or U/carriage set that would stop me frowning at my model after every landing?
  14. Here we go, found it already...just type T180 cowl into a well know search engine and it'll be obvious. Only a tenner too.!
  15. I built a T180 back in mmmmmmm 2000ish and as my first model it took me a very long time to do it. I got it all finished and Enya 4 stroke run up but never got any further than taxi practice at my local park. So its followed me around from house to house to Mum and Dads house etc etc but as yet has never flown. Only this year i decided that my new years resolution was going to be "learn to to fly". I decided that the way fwd was to buy an ARTF (Boomerang) and learn on that and then to fly my T180 by the end of the year by which time i hope to have cracked this flying business. The weather hasn't been kind but i've just managed to go solo with my Boomer so maybe she'll fly in the next few months. She's in her original condition with all original fixtures and fittings so if its of any help i can send you some pics if you like. Just specify which bit you need the details on. I've still got the box and intructions etc and even the pilot so if i can help just ask. Then when it comes to my turn i can maybe tap you up for some settings etc. On your engine cowl issue i saw somewhere either a plastic or fibre glass one for sale which might save you some time and effort. I'll rack my brains and see if can remember where it was and let you know. Best of luck anyway.
  16. I'm on my 10th flight...i think i'm ready for this one!! Count me in.Ta
  17. I built a Precedent T180 a few years ago and i've only recently been in the position to learn to fly. When it came to the crunch i decided that it would be a good idea to learn with an ARTF rather than risk hours of work so i transfered all the radio gear into a new Boomerang (a plane recommended by my local club) ,picked up a good second hand Irvine 53 (through the club) and on a very foggy day a few months ago my instructor did the final safety checks and test flew it / trimmed it all up for me. The following week with not a cloud in the sky i was ready for my first go. I was nervous of course but the buddy link system gave me that piece of mind so i could concentrate on what i was doing and being told. Learning to fly is not easy and requires you to use a whole lot of senses all at once that i was just not used to using. I can confidently say that i would have crashed big style several times over by now if it not been for the buddy system. This weekend was my 5th outing and about my 7th flight and my instructor reckons i'm doing just fine...i've done a couple of touch-n-go's already and he thinks it won't be very long before i'll be one my own. I'm learning on mode 1 and while it does feel slightly strange (coming from the playstation era) i'm sticking with it for now as i can see the reasoning behind it for a learner. I had spent many hours looking into exactly what field equipment i needed etc etc and it was nice to not have to beg and borrow on my first day out. I wasn't in a rush and funds are tight so i couldn't just throw hundreds at my new hobby so the internet has proved invaluable. Its probably taken me 3 or 4 months over the winter to get my kit together. Plane restraints for less than a £1 out of a broom handle and some pipe lagging, Cof G guage for about the same from bits of wood and a few left over servo horns (works a treat!!).It all adds up and while i would be the first person to say some things you really should not skrimp on i.e Radio Gear savings can be made and lets face it with things the way they are in the real world every little helps. I have to say that the best decision i made was to go to a club, Yes it does take a week or two to become a familiar face but people are naturally cautious of new faces so don't be put off if nobody rushes over with a cup of tea on the first week. Everybody learns at different speeds and i know i'll crash someday just like everybody else but by going down the club/trainer route the enjoyable times will hopefully far out wiegh the picking up the bits moments. If someone was to ask me what the hardest part has been so far it would be pulling the throttle back to idle on my final approach and having the confidence to bring it in first time from what seems like miles away. . Who knows maybe the T180 might get an outing before the end of the year.
  18. Ok 1v per cell it is. Just out of curiousity what if any is the potential problem if the cells were to become fully discharged, ie left on by mistake. Does thiis render the NiCad U/S or is it not so much of a problem as long you completely re-cycle them? Cheers
  19. I've had a good read up on the cycling/charging/discharging of NiCads on various threads on here and i'm ok with what i've read so and its all very helpfull and interesting. The one thing that seems to be missing though is how low voltage wise should i set my battery cycler/charger to go before it starts to re-charge again.? In my youth i used to race electric buggies and would just put a 5 watt light bulb on the batt pack until it was completely dead before recharging it, but that was cough-cough 20 years ago now and i know things have changed somewhat in battery technology since then. Any pointers would be a great help. Cheers.
  20. I had to laugh when i read this article.....i've just spent days trying to find 3.5mm screws for my Irvine 53 and couldn't get any anywhwere. Then somebody suggested "4BA" screws and nuts....PERFECT...they are about 3.5mm and do just nicely thankyou. I'd rather not drill out an engine mount to 4mm unless really ness and like flytilbroke said 3mm could leave you with a strange engine offset.
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