Alex Hasell

Hi Chris i am certainly no expert but from i have done and seen so far the reasonfor setting said servo at 45 degrees rather than at the right angle is really that by setting it so you will be operating the servo with its normal arc of travel if setting at 90 when the throttle is fully open you will probably be putting undue strain on the servo by asking it to move so far. Although you probably havent noticed any advervse effects as yet in time i think you might wear the gears in the servo out i have very similar trainer to your self and have use a "star" servo arm and positioned the push rod on the 45 degree arm of the star and find it gives me excellent controll over throttle trim throughout its range of movement. Also there is a thread in the beginners section on setting up servos one by my self and one by some one else have a look at these as i found them usefull. Hope this helps you regards, Alex

Firstly apply epoxy to top and bottom ofthe stab and position this into the rear of the fuselage ensuring its central and level once the glue is dried apply a good amount of epoxy into the pre cut slot forthe tail fin again ensure it goes it straight and true the book says to use tape here to hold in place but i prefered to hold a square against it and hold it my self until the glue had set i never trust tape to keep anything square! once you have finished you should end up with some thing like this  a little tip if you have been a bit eager with the scapel and removed a little to much covering at any point use some white paint if you have no model paint you can use house hold paint just to touch up around the joins it just gives it that finished look but thats just my opinion Starting to take shape                                 

Ahaa Myron i think its because he's worked out i'm a petrol head (or Glow head) and as im just starting out i dont want to have to worry about all the calcs and things needed for lecy flying. Although i do see the appeal of it and in due time i fully intend on adding some elecy planes to my "hanger" Back onto topic for a min though i am some what puzzled as to why the manufacturer in this case Seagull who i belive to be one of the better ones have apparently given no consideration to what would seem to me to be one of the basics of setting up the airframe. In that the fuel tank is completely encased in the airframe which is good in that it cant move but leaves the carb/needle well above the centre line of the tank in this case it is actually above the top of the tank this cant be a good thing surely?? so now apart from some major surgery to the airframe i cant see how it can be rectified, but then another part of me says they must of sold plenty of these kits and if this was a major problem then they would surely of done some thing about it would they not! Any thoughts on this guy's would be welcome. Regards, Alex

indeed well said Timbo that is excellent thankyou Kelvin i have gained so many usefull things from you guys which i can now pass on in my build blog . You know that has really quite suprised me that 10mm is all it takes to manover the airframe through the sky well i guess all things are proportional and as its not a 2m acrobat then 10mm is quite alot in comparison. I thought to myself that was the logigal way of doing it but when the book says measure at thickest part of the surface i hope you can see why i had to question it! And Kelvin i very much enjoyed your 109 build blog good stuff Thankyou All, Alex

Thaks for the reply there Andy. Im sorry to say although that does help me understand the process a little more i am still slightyly confused. You see no my model does not come with any sort of jig at all yes it is a trainer. The throws in the manual are given not in degrees (i wish they were) but in inches which to start with really doesnt help me as i was taught metric! Although having said that your above estimate of the aileron been 20mm wide = a throw of 10mm is about right as in the manual  its given as 3/8" up 3/8" down which is roughly 10mm so that is obviously what it should be, it then states to measure this dimension at the thickest part of the control surface! as in the instance of the ailerons which are slightly tapered do i measure this 10mm as close to the hinge as poss which then gives the trailing edge a greater deflection than 10mm or measure at the tip of the aileron so the whole aileron would have a totall travel of 20mm from the max up to down deflection. I just want to be sure i have this correct before any flights so i do not have a fight on my hands before i start. Many Thanks Alex

Hoping someone can quickly clarify this one for me i think i have the controlsurface throws set as per my kit instructions but would very much like to hear from you all how and what you find the best and most accurate way of setting and measuring yours Many Thanks. Alex

yes please

Thank you all for your replys all taken on board

Eric, I dont think you understand me Eric i am comfortable with the whole starting process i have it off by hart and yes your post is very usefull but thats not my concern i want to know what is best to do once you have flooded an engine? and secondly and more importantly i know that the tank should be level through its centre with the needle my question what if its not? what are the effects of it and why? You see i have just built my trainer and obviously things like tank and engine height are predetermined and there is no way that the height of the tank is any way near where it should be in relation to the needle valve hence my question. Regards, Alex

OK trying to get my engine started inadvertently flooded the thing becuse i didnt count on my fuel pump been quicte so efficent! anyway can soe one please advise me on what to do next time i flood it what are the best steps to take to stand the best chance of getting the motor started? And also can some one explain in as much detail as possible the relation ship between tank height and the carb or needle i know a couple of reasons but im sure im missing something this one is because i am concerned with the height in my ARTF trainer and was thinking this might also not help the starting or the running for that matter again if some one would take the time to give as muc h detail as poss i would be very ver y gratefull indeed Regards, Alex

Andy, I wish you all the best i am in exactly the same position as yourself let me know how you get on regards Alex

OK so now you need to mix up a fair bit of epoxy for this next bit, also makesure you have a set square or similar to check you get the tail level and straight. 

Again just be carefull to cut inside your marking out. The centre line should be left until glued it can then be removed a little white spirit and a cloth i found to be fine. Sure you won't but dont forget the bottom!!!

So now your happy we have to fit the above to the fuselage dryfit the stab into the slot on the back of the fuselage making sure its a snug fit and more importantly that its central and square it is? good take a pen and mark around where the fuselage is covering the stab again this covering needs to be removed before we get the glue out. but leave it in place now carefully feel the top of the fuselage where the tail fin is to go and you will feel a depresion in the covering remove the covering here and then you will be able to get the tail fin in to check its position as well it sits in part ontop of the stab you didnt move it did you!! and again mark a line where the fuselage covers the tail what you should end up with is something like this

Ok so thats the Wing Section finished with for now find a nice safe place for it a little tip i used the bubble wrap out the box to wrap mine in its just the right size. So onto the fuselage first of all have a good look over it and make ure all is as it should be and all the push rods and guides are there and obviously nothing is broken,ok good next inspect the stab and tail fin only point to watch here is you have full travel of the control surfaces. All present and correct?

Kelvin, Shaun Thanks guy's for those few kind words im glad you like what im doing i am quite enjoying the "bloging" if im honest i have never done it before. And Kelvin am i right in saying thats a 109 on one of your posts (one hanging up) if not i apologise whatever it is it is VERY nicely made bravo sir! i will admit now thats the direction im going in Warbirds i mean i love 'em can't beat them IMHO Regards, Alex 

This is the supplied hardware that comes with the kit good quality stuff really i have no gripes Ok and the servo installed along with control rods, remember to centre the servo first before conecting the rods and clevis's. Also in this pic the rods have not been cut down i will leave this till the end of the build you dont have to i just am then i will trim them there far to long to operate safely inside the model in flight!!!

Servo dry fitted

Servo mount next to where i removed sme covering to make way note i cut slightly inside the marked outline!!!! PIc Showing the two V groves i cut to allow it bend to the same angle as the wing!

Strangely the next step is to sort the UC out but i thought this was really not going to make things easy so decided to leave it till last following what i have seen others do. After the wings had dried completely it was time to fit the servo mount and control rods to the wing. The Boomer uses only one servo for the Ailerons which is nice cause it keeps things simple i think.. The servo mount itself is a quite simple procedure first position the mount on the wing over the cut out thats alrady there and draw around it now carefully remove some of the wing covering WITHIN the lines you have just drawn to expose the bare wood. Obviously this to anable  a solid bond between the wing and the mount. At this stage i noticed the mount was straight where as the wing was not due to the dihedral so the mount does not sit flush to the wing to get a good bond i wanted it to sit as flat as possible before and pressure, glue or clamps were used to force the surfaces together so on the back of the mount i cut to V shaped groves that would allow it to bend to the shape of the wing more naturally once i was happy i applied 5 min epoxy and held firmly in place till dry . Once this had set i test fitted the servo i have use a Spektrum digi here cause i need a little extra torque and happily it was a nice snug fit that needed no adjustment brilliant! Servo screwed in place the wing build was complete.

No Shaun not in a club for various reasons but yes am a country member of BMFA so have insurance regards Alex

David i have just got the exact same engine and fuel which is running for first time today ill let you know how i go and would be interested on hearing what you find to be the optimum settings

Darren Yeah i know what you mean these instructions arnt much better thats why i say read them twice theres a few points that ill mention later on. It does seem quite a popular trainer this one as im finding out but i can see why its a good price and quality is good too. Personaly i opted to go 2.4 as well but im running spektrum gear as you will see later on. Thanks for your interest. Regards Alex

Okthanks guys i did read some where else that they are usually factory set to the optimum setting already and that was my general feeling on the matter but that was from a different manufacturer and as the instructions that came with my sc46 were pathectic to say the least then i thought it best to check regards Alex

OK and this one showing the dihedral angle of the finished wing section the Boomerang has a semi-symetrical wing section which should help with some mild acrobatics but if like me your a long way from that just yet!