Terry Whiting

Jim,   I sympathise as I have received many such bites. Before I became a manager on Royal Mail I had 25 years as a postman and have the scars to prove it.  I think that hand will be out of service for more than one week.    Terry

Hi Guys,   Just incase anyone tries to message me or puts a question to me in this blog, I wll be out of the running until Tuesday 16th as I'm changing my broadband server..   Cheers  TW 

Prop,   Sorry, can not remember,  but you would be safe at 25% of the chord being  a parallel chord wing. To answer your question,      3 5/8" ==== 93mm.   What is the chord measurement of the  wing?    TW 

Geoff,   I can not see any problem with that set up.   Mario's method on page 6 shows the fuselage upright which is similar to my own method. I just made two equal size block which when place under each tailplane tip lifting the fuselage belly clear of my building board. With my fuz square (upright) to my building board, I knew then the tailplane was square to the fuz, just left the normal tip geometry.   So mix that epoxy 

Congrats Allan,   I'm afraid even if I was ready for a maiden, this weather is a NO NO for me. My days of playing the Brass Monkey are past .   After reading you ran out of up trim I wondered if it was an incidence problem, I must admit I had not checked the plan incidence. In doing so I found it was 2.5 degree + on the wing, and zero on the tailplane. Can see no problem there, so as you suggested.could be a balance problem. I think I will do some ballance point checks using the mean chord.    

Hugh,   I do not know  the grade of mine, but you wouldn't bend it by pressure alone, even   when annealed it required a good vice and hammer, but I'm sure yours would  have less stress marks if annealed.  I would file off  that sharp aluminium angle too.     No you must not quench, just let it cool naturally.     MT,   wow,      56mph thats a scale speed just over 500 mph.     Terry  Edited By Terry Whiting on 07/03/2010 17:42:08

  Hugh, The UC looks pretty good to me, but I doubt if mine would have looked like that if I hadn't annealed.    TW      

Hugh,   Have you tried annealing, I had to anneal the aluminium that was kindly given me by John Laverick, and it worked just fine.    TW

Kevo,   Go to "Beginners" topic and scroll down to  'C o G by Hogster' (28/2/2010) This thread may help you.

HI Keith,   Welcome aboard.   Your aluminium enquiry.......   Look up page 18 of this blog and you will find a thread by placed  Hugh Philips  on the 18/2  on where you can obtain your aluminium.   What stage are you with your Lysander?   TW

1; Just coming up 78, sold off all my IC, went electric   2 &Electric;Sport&; Semi Scale EDF Water planes   3.& Rubber, 66 years ago, but can't recall it's name Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 10/03/2010 15:05:56

Hi Jim   Yes that is the reason in having to sand the rib's spar cut outs.   I can remember it stating in the build instructions to pin the main spar directly to the board. To do this the ribs will never sit properly on the spar.   To make life a little easier use 6mm sq Balsa strip as your main spars, as Obechi is unnecessary for four relatively small wing panels.  If you have some oddments of the 5mm sq stringers, use  pieces as packers under the mainspar, your ribs will then fit perfectly on the spar, and their TE (aileron hinge spar) will sit nicely on your board.   If you check on the Lysander build of Tony Nijhuis, you will see he used packers.        

Simon,   Wonderful.   Have you tried any down thrust? I do not think the fullsize had down thrust, but then the prop was only doing 1200rpm. Might be worth a try before altering the tailplane.   TW

Allan,   Remember, ........patience is a virtue.   I do not think we will be seeing much  maiden flight weather for a while, this damnable wind and rain is relentless.   A shame it required 4oz of ballast, but I think most will come out at about 6lb + mark.  My dural undercarriage is 3.5oz  heavier than your home made carbon fibre job, which I must add you made a really good job of. I'm using Tex which has a slight weight penalty of about 5g per squ ft. but it all adds up   TW Edited By Terry Whiting on 28/02/2010 09:56:27

Jim,   The pleasure was all  mine.    I didn't enlarge the hole for the axle as I didnt know what if you were purchasing ready made threaded axles, or was going to use a harden bolt, but whatever you use it will require redrilling to size.   As for sheeting round the fin and 'stab', use a piece of  cardboard such as a serial box and cut a template. Yes remove the covering where glue is to be applied, and check ( PAGE 6)  for Mario's sketch on fuselage jigging for stabilizer alignment. Before gluing the 'stab', stick a pin in each tip. If you use a long straight edge place it lengthways on the hinge spar then your pins will exact in each tip.   Now measure dead centre of F5 and insert a 3rd pin, now adjust the 'stab' so the the measurement from each tip pin  to the pin of F5 is dead equal. You are now ready for gluing.   Leave the tip pins in place as they will be required for fin alignment. When the 'stab' is set slip the fin into position, and stick a pin into it's tip. Take a length of white cotton and tie a loop at one end, pass the loop over a 'stab' tip pin,  pass the cotton over the fin close to the pin and down to the other 'stab' pin. Just hold it against the pin making sure there's no slack. Mark the cotton with a pen exactly level with that pin. No measure the overall lenth from loop to ink mark, half that measurement exactly and mark the cotton in the centre.   Replace the loop to the tip pin, over the fin,and hold or wind the cotton around the other pin. Adjust your fin the the half measured mark and your fin is dead upright and ready for gluing.