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Yorkman

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Everything posted by Yorkman

  1. Posted by Trevor Crook on 12/11/2020 19:07:32: Indeed. The problem with mounting the retract unit deep in the nacelle to accommodate the wheel is that it makes the leg longer, which makes it more prone to bend, and puts more stress on the retract unit. exactly. it's a double whammy of stresses acting in line with the direction of movement and the added leverage due to needing to bury the diameter of the wheel rather than the thickness of it.
  2. That's a shame! The York has now been flying for 16 years (off and on!) and I hope many more years to come. I have decided that I will try and engineer some 'proper' undercarriages for this new project, with functioning drag braces, as per the York, but with a much simpler actuating and adjusting system. I really don't like just relying on the strength of the retract unit to hold the wheels against the landing forces. It works ok on my Mossie, but that's a proper lightweight. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVdAE2CE2K8&ab_channel=MartinAbbott
  3. Posted by Martin Harris on 09/11/2020 21:16:46: Do they retract backwards? yep
  4. As to which aircraft, it's a secret, as I can't see any others out there and hope it may be a first!
  5. Posted by Robert Parker on 09/11/2020 18:30:25: Hi E flite makes a 100-degree unit part no EFLG320 for 25-46 size engines, they also do 105 degrees and 95 degrees. I cannot see a 60 size in their range (Horizon Hobbies) Hope this is of some help, any clue as to the model your designing?? Regards Robert what does '25-46 size engines' mean? It is no help whatsoever! For a start it's a multi-engine model, and it will be electric! Why do they not say the maximum weight of the model (as some others do)
  6. I will need, if possible, a pair of 100 degree electric retracts, for a 6' span four engined transport which is in the design stage. 90 degree rotation not required! Not a clue as to what the projected weight is, but the lumpier the units the better. Are there any out there that could do this job? Cheers all.
  7. I can't find anywhere to adjust anything. Go to 'flight mode setup' in the menu, and it allows me to assign a switch, which I am then told, loudly, is 'flight mode 1' or 'flight mode 2'. And...? How do I now make that switch adjust anything?
  8. I've set up flight modes on a powered sailplane on my DX7, can't remember how, but got launch, cruise, thermal and landing moving the ailerons and flaps. Now I want to set up a 'launch' mode for a powered model, which drops the flaps to take-off position and dials in some up-elevator so (hopefully) it climbs away from the hand launch and I flick a switch and the elevator returns to neutral and the flaps retract. But how? I don't want the up elevator on normal flap extension...
  9. I think you need a pre-takeoff checklist Simon-just read your sea vixen build thread where you also launched with gyro off....or just have the gyro permanently switched on! I'd like to know how you manage to get a decent finish with Depron and Uhu Por. I've built a couple of Mosquitos with fuselage construction similar to yours though fewer planks and thicker depron- and as you have said, the depron sands but the glue doesn't...so I could never get the joints to disappear...
  10. Just fried the Hobbywing Pentium 60A opto that came fitted in the Lander Panther. It had been cutting out, pausing, and simply not working at all, at different times, before smoke issued forth. When it had worked max amp draw was measured at 53, so it should have been ok. Anyway, it needs replacing, so just wondered what people recommend? Just a quick google of '80amp esc' produces a list varying in price from £16 to over £100 (which I'm not going to pay)....
  11. Posted by bert baker on 21/01/2020 17:17:41: As I understand retracts, there not designed to hold the oleo and wheel up on the screw jack or to hold it down when deployed. they are mechanically locked up and down Indeed they are. I've just had a look inside a spare one I have, and sure enough it has tiny microswitches at each end of the screwjack travel. It would be possible to introduce something in there to activate the microswitch early and thus stop the movement but it would be very fiddly to do. I will carry on with them moving through 90 degrees. So, to answer my own question-yes, it's possible, but not very do-able
  12. I wonder how easy it is to adjust the limit switches? I want to reduce the 'up' travel....
  13. apologies for spelling of 'electric' in the title...
  14. is it possible to reduce the throw of the generally available now servoless retracts? Edited By Yorkman on 21/01/2020 10:28:04
  15. Posted by Keith Miles 2 on 10/01/2020 16:55:11: Posted by Steve J on 10/01/2020 12:39:37: Posted by Keith Miles 2 on 09/01/2020 17:55:55: Posted by Steve J on 09/01/2020 08:51:36: Take two batteries that differ only in C rating. Connect to the same prop/motor/ESC setup. Open the throttle. More current will be pulled out of the higher C rated battery than out of the lower. Sorry, I meant to say that you are absolutely correct on that last point! Eventually the penny might drop! You seem to think that you understand this subject better than I do. You don't. Anyway, one of my New Year's resolutions was to take Mark Twain's advice regarding dealing with idiots so I am going to say goodbye and put you on my ignore list. Firstly, I think you will find a number of people on here, who do seem to know their stuff, that share my opinion, and one or two who have proved the theory, so maybe you should block them as well? Secondly, I have over 50 years experience as an industrial installation electrician so, clearly, I have never understood basic principles since day one and perhaps should have been sacked! Oh, and I’m still learning things. It is a shame when some people seem unwilling, or incapable, of even pausing to consider that they might just be wrong or may have misunderstood something. It is also not a little concerning. So, going back to the OP and aside from technical intricacies, if you are unable to accept, at the very least, that a battery is NOT there to protect a motor from overload or overspeed as your “high “C” will kill it” theory suggests, then I, for one, will waste no more time trying to change your opinion. Oh, and resorting to personal insults doesn’t help your case, either. Edited By Keith Miles 2 on 10/01/2020 17:03:42 Have to say I'm with you on this one Keith...even if a higher 'c' rating enabled a battery to deliver more voltage that it actually contains (how?) in my experience your actual motor is pretty tolerant of voltage variations-and if the motor was actually running that close to the edge of its abilities, then,as previously mentioned, prop/motor/amps etc need revision...
  16. I seem to have poked a hornet's nest! I think from all the above my conclusion must be that basically a higher c rating simply means that the battery will maintain a higher voltage under load, therefore boosting take-off power....? (as reported in the RCME article) and of course, the only way to determine if a higher c rated battery is required is to see if the thing will take off or not....
  17. Having read the article in the latest RCME mag about how the L39 Albatros wouldn't get off the ground with less than a 50c rated Lipo, I wondered what everyone else's experience is? I've just acquired a 10 year old Lander Grumman Panther with a 68mm 5 blade fan for a 4s battery. My model shop has 30c rated Lipos to fit, but I'm wondering if l need to go higher? The Panther is 36" span with a flying weight about 42oz.
  18. Just thought I'd tag onto this thread. As I should have a lot more free time in 2020, I'm thinking about trying my hand in 'flying only' in the sub-5kg class. Who's doing this, any dates/venues, and any tips? The bmfa site is only listing indoor comps at the moment (that I can find anyway!). I have looked at the competition rules and worked out the manoeuvres I can fly with a York and Bombay, and if nothing else it will give a purpose to my flying in future, practising figure 8s and descending circles rather than bimbling aimlessly around the sky...
  19. Good old google. Hold down the scroll wheel BEFORE switching on sorted.
  20. I've just realised, l can't even select another model. Basically the transmitter is locked. Stellar bit of design-and the manual is no help whatsoever...
  21. Well, I've managed to lock myself out of my DX7. Trying to set a warning for the gear switch position, so I don't switch the model on with u/c selected down. I did it no problem before-gear switch position 0, warning. However, this time I fiddled about and also set a warning, on the gear channel, for 'servo position over 0%' So now, if the switch is selected 'down' I get the 'warning, gear down', and if l select 'up' l get 'warning, servo position over zero percent' and I can't get past the warnings into the menu to sort it out..... HELP!! Or I'll have to rebind and reprogram all the mixes....
  22. About 8 minutes too late Colin! But thanks anyway
  23. Aha! That was the essential bit of info I'd failed to grasp-I see it now 'J4 on J5 on: Fixed Wing' Thanks for nursing me through that
  24. yeah, it's switched 'off' I switched 'on' 1,2 & 3 in case that made a difference, but it didn't.
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